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Question: Hello Anne, I have a Japanese Flowering Cherry that is about 10 years old. This spring one branch had all the leaves turn brown and fall off. Now other branches have also been affected. I have sprayed it, but don't know if there is something else I should do. Any advise you can give is appreciated.
Anne Clapp: There are several diseases of cherry trees that may be causing the problem. The most likely from your description is Brown Rot (Monolina fruiticola) that overwinters in bark cankers on the tree. When flower buds begin to show color small caps that look like mushrooms form at the cankers. Damp cool weather spreads the spores. For control remove all leaves and debris from the tree in the fall and spray with an oil spray. You may want to heck with your local extension service for a spray program to control the disease.
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Question: Hi Anne, What kind of tree or shrub would you recommend to add more privacy to my backyard? I have a 5-foot fence, but the neighbors behind me have a raised deck and can easily see our yard and we can easily see theirs. Thank you for your help, Karen
Anne Clapp: For sunny areas some choices of fairly fast growing screening materials are Nelly Stevens Holly, Emily Brunner Holly, Little Gem southern magnolia, Japanese cryptomeria, youpon holly and Arborvita. For a shadier area try sasanqua camellias, Florida anise, ligustrum, cleyera and some of the tall growing azaleas like George Tabor.
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Question: Anne, I have just harvested coriander seeds. I have planted them in March and gotten a little cilantro before they bolt. Can they be planted in late summer for fall, and if so, when? Can they be planted in winter for earlier spring leafing out? Thanks, Joseph
Anne Clapp: My patch of cilantro is self-seeding so seeds put out in late summer and fall will produce for a late fall and early spring crop.
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Question: Dear Anne, Will Leland Cyprus trees grow on St. Simons Island? Thank you.
Anne Clapp: Leylands are listed only as slightly tolerant to salt spray and are not recommended for coastal areas in the Carolinas and Georgia. Eastern red cedars (Juniperus virginiana) is often recommended.
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Question: I have two very large potted tomatoes. They get sun all day and one has produced 4 red tomatoes this season. They both have lots of green ones that are growing. The problem is that I think they have wilt. They don't look so good. I water them when I see they are drooping or at least every other day. Sometimes everyday when it has been very hot. The pots are plastic and have holes in the bottom. I have fertilized them just once with an organic slow release (low numbers). What can I do to save my plants this season? Thank you, Vicki T.
Anne Clapp: I think the plastic pots may be keeping the soil too hot. You might try putting the pots inside a larger pot for a little insulation. Watering every day when it is hot and dry is usually necessary and if the soil really gets dry some people are watering twice a day.
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Question: Hi Anne, I've pulled up my Better Boy tomato plant because almost all its leaves turned yellow, though I did get a couple dozen green tomatoes. Worse crop in ten years. Is a fall tomato variety available? Or what other vegetables can I plant in July, other than squash? Thanks for all that you do. Mary
Anne Clapp: Yellow leaves often mean there is early blight disease in the soil where the tomatoes are planted. Most tomato varieties can be planted in July for a late crop but they need to be in a place where tomatoes have not been growing. Green beans still have time to produce a crop before frost and by mid-August you can still get out late plants for broccoli. Lettuce and spinach can produce if sown by Labor Day.
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Question: For the past two years I have planted Morning Glories around my shepherd's hook that I have a hummingbird feed hanging on. And both times the Morning Glories have not blossomed at all, but have gone directly to seed. Do you have any idea why this would happen? I hope that you can help me figure this out, because I am at my wit's end! Kris M.
Anne Clapp: I'm not sure how seed could be produced if the plant did not bloom. The unopened blooms do look like seed pods; they don't open if the plants have too much nitrogen fertilizer.
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Question: We have four Leland Cyprus Pines which are about 5 years old. They are a nice size and create a privacy border in our back yard. We noticed that they are all getting brown in the middle, but see no bugs. Any suggestions?
Anne Clapp: Leylands do lose the twigs closest to the trunk each year. The little needles turn brown and usually drop off during the winter. Limbs sometime turn brown when birds landing on a limb break it. Check to see if there is any damage. There is also a disease called needle blight that has infected trees in western and Piedmont North Carolina. To date there is not a spray recommended for the disease.
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Question: I have two four year old cypress trees which seem to be infested with these "cones". They look as if they are formed from the needles of the cypress. It looks as if they are killing my tree. What can I do to stop this? Do I need some sort of spray? I do not want to loose these cypress. They are now over 10 feet tall. Thank you so much for helping me. Joyce F. of Myrtle Beach
Anne Clapp: This is an insect called bag worms. The little cone contains the little insect. A Bt spray will work in the spring and summer when the insects are active. Some people pull the little cones off and throw them away.
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Question: I put some black organic mulch in my yard and it smells bad. What can I do about it? Help!
Anne Clapp: Watering it sometimes helps, raking it to give it more air may help. The material is probably still decomposing so the odor will probably calm down in a week or so. There is no product you can spray to remove the odor.
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Question: Plants are 3-4 years old. Noticed some branches from the ground are wilting and turning brown; otherwise the shrub looks healthy. What would you do? WLT
Anne Clapp: Sometimes they do lose lower branches often because the next tier of limbs shades them out. You may want to wait until winter and then prune the lower limbs off if they do not seem to be recovering.
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Question: Dear Anne, I hope you can help me with my rubber tree plant. It was healthy and going fine, and then we moved to a new house. I tried setting it in a place that had the same sun has its old spot. I water it once a week like I have for the past year. All of a sudden all the leaves wilted, and now they have begun to fall off. They are not discolored and I can not see any insects or any damage to them. Please help before it is too late! Thanks, Rebecca B.
Anne Clapp: The plant could have had its roots damaged in moving or it could have been exposed to some chemical it didn't like. If you have not repotted your rubber tree plant recently it may be time to do so. The problem sounds like a lack of moisture at the roots of the plant letting the plant stand in water, not watering frequently enough and soil that does not retain enough water and nutrient are the usually causes of the problem.
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Question: Anne, could you tell me what type of Palm Tree would be the best if any, that doesn't require alot of attention or special need to add to my yard? I've asked a local nursery and got the (not in these parts answer). But have seen some around that seem to be doing rather well. I live in the Cumberland Co. area. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Susan
Anne Clapp: Needle palms, dwarf palmetto and an occasional windmill palm planted on the south side of a warm wall are hardy to the lower teens.
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Question: Hi Anne, Within the last three to four weeks I planted six phlox plants from containers. Since that time, of the six, the leaves on one of them turned yellow and the plant died. I imagine I was watering it too much or too little. Can you tell me which you think is most likely? Also, for the last couple of days, the leaves on another of the phlox plants have all drooped. They have not turned yellow, just drooped. This morning we dug a hole several inches down and about 5 or 6 inches from the plant with the droopy leaves to try and check the moisture content of the soil. It seemed to be moist enough since we could close our hand around it and the soil balled. Any help you could give me would be greatly appreciated. My husband and I are brand new to gardening. Two more questions about phlox-(1)once the flowers that are on the plants now die and I have deadheaded them, will more flowers come this season? (2) What do phlox
grow from-seeds, tubers, what? - Linda
Anne Clapp: New phlox plants are grown from seeds. They produce a root mass and crown that will be the permanent plant structure that will last through the winter. The top of the plants does die back. Deadheading the spent blooms will keep the plant producing new blooms through the summer. Yellow leaves may come from overwatering, but the plant will lose lower leaves during the summer.
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Question: Hi there. I have several large camellia growing in my garden in peat enriched soil. They are fine apart from a black sooty mould which accompanied them from my mothers garden (she gave them to me) although the new leaves come out fine they eventually have this horrible black sooty mould all over them and it is becoming unsightly. There are far too many leaves to try to wipe off individually and even when doing so it still leaves black spots on leaves which are definitely not removable.
I have looked up on the web and can only find items on treat the pest and not the problem. I do not know which pest is attacking the plant. The sooty mould is just that - there are no pests to be seen.
Is there a general insecticide that I can use that will kill off this problem? I have seven camellia in my garden and I do not want them to look like this. Thank you.
Anne Clapp: I think your sooty mold problem is caused by aphids that get on the new growth in the early spring. The insects secrete a sugary substance that eventually becomes the sooty mold. Spraying with a light weight horticultural soil such as Sun Spray does soften the mold so it washes off with rain. Insecticidal soap will also help to wash off the leaves. Just apply it following the label instructions; allow it to stay on the plant for about 30 minutes and then wash the plant off. I don't like to spray either the oil or soap when temperatures are over 80 because the leaves could get scalded from the chemicals.
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Question: Dear Ms. Clapp, My husband and I recently bought a home on .78 acres with extensive landscaping.There are many gardens on the property and grass and weeds have begun to grow in many of them.Is there a product that Ican put down to kill weeds and grass and not disturb the bushes?I feel like I am pulling weeds and grass in vain, as I have not been able to get all if it up. Your help is appreciated. Thank you, The W.'s
Anne Clapp: Grass can usually be killed out with an herbicide labeled as a grass killer, such as Ortho's Grass Be Gone, without endangering the bushes in the landscape. There are also weed killers such as Ornamec that are formulated to spray weeds in shrubbery. When you hand pull weeds you must make sure to get the roots so they plant does not resprout. Once weeds are removed from an area you can use a preemergent herbicide such as Preen to cover the ground and keep the weeds from germinating from any seed that are in the area.
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Question: I have planted 10 Muskogee Crape Myrtles and 1 dwarf Petite Embers Crape Myrtles. I have 3 of the 10 to produce leaves and the other 7 plus the dwarf has not produced a leaf and it is the 29th of June. I did not do anything different to the 3. Help a new house and new landscaping. Theresa M.
Anne Clapp: It sounds as though there was a problem with root development in some of the plants. If the plants were purchased as dormant bare root plants the root system could have been damaged prior to planting. If the plant roots were not spread out so they were in good contact with the soil and watered as you filled in the dirt around the roots of the plant there may have been air spaces around the roots that allowed them to dry out. There could also be a difference in the water retention of the soil around the plants you put in the ground. Roots may be killed by sitting in soil that is too wet or too dry.
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Question: My confederate rose was a real beauty last year and grew to a height of about eight feet; however, this year it started out looking great--and healthy--but now, at about three feet, has curled leaves and twisted stems at the end of most big shoots. What caused this to happen, and what can I do for the plant? Thanks for your help.
Anne Clapp: The symptoms you describe can be caused by at least two problems- a fungal disease called mildew and an herbicide such as Roundup sprayed close to the plant. Keep the plant watered and give it some liquid fertilizer to see if you can get it to produce new growth.
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Question: I planted an April Tryst this spring in what I thought was the northeast corner of our house. However, it seems to be getting sun most of the day. It's near a watertap, and I've kept it well-watered. It looks to be doing fantastic. I wonder if I should move it in the fall to a shadier spot. Might it adapt to the spot it's in now since so far it's doing so well?
Anne Clapp: I have had reasonable luck growing camellias in quite a bit of sun. As long as the plant is watered during periods of drought it should do just fine. April Tryst has a good dark green foliage that seems to be able to adapt to a bit more sun than some camellias can take. Keep a good layer of mulch around the base of the plant to keep the soil cool and I think it will be fine.
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Question: Can I cut the top out of my leland cyprus---if so when is the right time to do it?
Anne Clapp: People do cut the top out of Leyland cypress to keep them more compact. The ideal time to do it is in February or early March just before the new growth starts to develop.
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Question: I have tons of yellow leaves dropping or about to drop from my Viburnum shrub. The soil is somewhat moist
(I've decided not to water it). A week ago we laid weed prevention (breatheable) material, which we laid close and right up to the stems of each Shrub, tree, and perennial. In some small areas this material overlaps, say about 2 inches of each other. What am I doing wrong? Is there poor air circulation within the material we're using. Am i over watering, should I poke my finger under this weed prevention material before watering. We also have hemlock bark (1 1/2 inch thick)on top of this weed prevention cloth. What are the signs of over and/or underwatering any plant, tree, or shrub. Please help me with this as i've invested lots of money in this area of landscaping. Mahalo! (Thank You!!!!!) - T. R.
Anne Clapp: I think you do have a problem with water around the viburnum - and it may be from overwatering. I prefer not to use the weed prevention material because I think it allows the soil to get too hot and cuts down on air circulation around the roots of plants. A 1.5 inch layer of wood mulch usually does a good job without the weed block fabric. A newly planted viburnum can use about one inch of water a week but an established plant usually adapts to less water as viburnum are fairly drought tolerant.
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Question: We have lots of yellow spots in our front yard. We have a dog in the yard and wonder if that is the cause. The grass seems dryer and very yellow in those areas. Help, Patsy
Anne Clapp: I think the problem probably is the dog and perhaps the local rabbits and squirrels. Frequent watering does help control the problem. Sometimes spreading a product called gypsum in dog lots will help break down the excess nitrogen caused by pet urine.
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Question: Hi Anne, I need specific instructions on deadheading my stella de' ora day lilies and perennial dianthus. Do I just cut off the tips where the blooms have died or do I cut the stalk off at the bottom? Thanks!
Anne Clapp: Cut the stalk off at the bottom for the dianthus and you can trim some of the other foliage too if it is getting out of hand. I prefer to way until the scape stalks on the day lilies turn brown then I just pull them off. Then I fertilize the Stella de'ora to get them to bloom again.
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Question: Hi Anne, I'm planning a baby shower and as parting gifts I'd like to give a bulb that blooms in September in the northeastern United States. This will be so the guests can plant it and every year it will bloom in the baby's birthday month. So I need to know which flowers will do that. Thank you for your time and answer. Sincerely, Michelle
Anne Clapp: You might try one of the fall blooming crocuses. The saffron crocus would certainly be different.
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Question: Dear Anne: I'm wondering if you know what causes yellowing of leaves and/or leaf loss on waxleaf ligustrum (Ligustrum Japonicum)? The leaves will typically turn yellow with green veins, and occasionally have brown spots. Thanks for any assistance. Sincerely, Michael F.
Anne Clapp: When leaves are yellow with green veins I usually suspect an iron deficiency and recommend the use of a product like Ironite. When leaves turn yellow with an occasional brown spot and fall off I usually attribute it to normal annual leaf drop on evergreen shrubs. If more than half of the leaves turn yellow and drop in the spring I recommend checking the drainage around the plant as it could be a sign of a root decay from standing in water.
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Question: HI Anne, About three weeks ago we just had two trees planted by a landscaper. One was a crepe myrtle and the other a pink dogwood. Half of the crepe myrtle's leaves started to wilt then within 1 week have completely dried up and are now falling off the tree. The pink Dogwood is now doing the same thing.
The leaves are wilting and drying up around the edges. They are both so new what could possibly be wrong? I did deep watering so I don't think it's drought related. Please help. Sincerely,
Karen from Virginia
Anne Clapp: It has been hot and dry with quite a bit of wind in North Carolina this June. Both dogwoods and crepe myrtles have suffered from powdery mildew. If dogwoods were set out during that time it would be very hard to keep them healthy enough to keep their leaves. Crepe myrtles are usually more forgiving of summer planting. Both plants need a constantly moist, but not wet soil, until the new roots develop. I suggest you talk with the landscaper who installed the trees for his evaluation of the problem.
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Question: I bought a lavendar plant and forgot to water it for a few weeks, it's stalks are brown and the leaves are green but crispy. Is there any way that I can save this plant? can it be cut down? I 've never had a lavendar plant before.
Anne Clapp: A new lavender plant that does not get watered for a few weeks is probably dead. They need to be watered as soon as soon as the soil dries out. Keep the plant watered and hope for the best. Don't cut it back.
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Question: I found your site while looking for information on gardenias, I hope you can help me. I live in Houston, TX and was given two gardenia's about month and a half back. They were covered with lovely blooms. But within a couple of days all the buds dropped off (turned brown at the base of the stem). My mother suggested planting in the ground (almost every house here has gardenias in the ground, outside), so we planted it on the west side(front of home). The plants look terrible, buds still drop off, not a single bloom, leaves look sick, some turning brown. I water regularly with the sprinkler system. Can you please help?
Anne Clapp: The problem may be the pH of the soil. Gardenias like a soil that is acid, just like azaleas. They will also drop blooms when they are too cold (not likely in Houston) or when the soil is too wet.
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Question: I have many,many daylilies in my yard. Only one has decided this year to get yellowed leaves. Has plenty of buds etc. All the rest of them, the ones right next to it on either side, are doing just fine. What could the problem be. I gave it a good shot of fertilizer this evening. But other than that, it has me stumped. It is one of my prettier ones so I don't want to lose it. Please advise. Thank you.
Anne Clapp: I think the leaf yellowing this year is caused by adding fertilizer and not having enough rain. There are several plantings that show the same symptoms. Evidently some varieties are more sensitive than others. I would make sure the plants are watered and if they have not been divided in three years you may want to dig and divide them after they have bloomed.
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Question: I have a grape vine which is three years old and the grapes are just forming but I have very small clear eggs on the stem, what are they and how do I get rid of them?
Anne Clapp: Some insect has evidently laid eggs on the grapevine. I don't know what it might be. Many times they can be taken care of with an insecticidal soap spray. The grapes would still be safe to eat.
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Question: I have several larger Leland Cyprus trees that are thinning to the point that I can see through them. There is also a degree of noticeable browning of the evergreen twigs. These trees are well over 20' and 25' tall. Is this a disease? Is there anything I can do? - Tony
Anne Clapp: There seem to be several problems with Leyland Cypress these days. Some of the causes of the symptoms you describe are lack of water, a foliar disease called Botryospheria dothidea that occurs when the plant limbs are wounded and cold injury. The fungal disease does not have a control at this time.
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Question: Hi Anne. I have many leyland cypress trees on my property that are growing very nicely. I recently had 8 more planted by a local nursery (8-9 feet tall). Very oddly, 3 of the newest trees have formed light green beads on the ends of the entire foliage. It almost looks like water droplets from a distance, but when you approach the trees, it is obvious that it is a growth on the foliage. Also, many of the limbs are turning brown. I am sure that they are not going to make it, however, I have never seen that kind of beading on any of the trees I have. I first thought that they were trying to sprout new foliage, but that doesn't seem to be the case. Can you shed some light on what this may be? Thank you, Debbie T., Atlanta
Anne Clapp: The damage you describe is similar to that caused by spraying with Round-up. Could the plants have been exposed to a chemical spray? My suggestion is that you contact the nursery that planted the trees to see if they can identify the source of the problem.
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Question: Dear Anne, I have triangular shaped raised vegetable boxes; the largest has a base of 10 feet and the smallest has a base of 8 feet. Tomato plants are growing in half whiskey barrels. We imported topsoil from Bradshere's so it's heavy in horse. I added the recommended amount of 10-10-10 before planting. I'm growing beans, peas, squash, cucumbers and the tomatoes. Do I need to fertilize again? Miracle Grow says to spray every 7-14 days; I don't want to fertilize too much. The tomatoes in one of my barrels are showing a bit of end rot? I read that it can be cause by getting too dry before watering?? Thanks for all the wonderful advice, Pat P.
Anne Clapp: The blossom end rot is caused by uneven moisture and low calcium content in the soil. The trick is to use plenty of lime when you prepare the beds. You can use a calcium chloride spray, often sold as Blossom End Rot Preventer or Tomato Spray at most garden centers. If you have added 10-10-10 fertilizer you really don't want to spray with Miracle Grow that frequently. In most cases a side dressing with more 10-10-10 about 6 weeks after the plants are in the ground is sufficient.
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Question: Hi Anne, I have some old pines trees (about 20 years old) that line my driveway. I would like to cut them down and replace with a flowering tree or shrub such as crepe myrtles. My question is will the crepe myrtles grow in soil where pines trees have been due to the acidity. Thank you, Linda H.
Anne Clapp: There should be no problem growing crepe myrtles in soil where pine trees have been growing as long as there is plenty of sunshine.
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Question: I have three camillia plants that the leafs are turning brown and the color of the plants is light green. many healthy plants are a very dark green. i have sp[rayed my plants with insect control and the results are negative. what shoul i try next?
Anne Clapp: The symptoms you describe are usually the result of a plant that is having soil problems. Check to make sure there is good organic matter in the soil to hold moisture in the soil and that there is a two inch mulch layer around the plant. Make sure the plant is not drying out too quickly or standing in a watery spot. I assume you have fertilized the plants with a fertilizer labeled for use on camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons.
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Question: I came home from a weekend trip to find what might be a fungus, not sure, on an exterior wall and also both on the ground under a nearby crimson queen Japanese maple and on the trunk. Whatever it is started out being yellow, then turned more brownish beige and appears black underneath. I spray with a fungicide but this is a very large maple and I want to make sure I don't lose it. Any other suggestions on what it might be and what I should do? - Roxie T.
Anne Clapp: There are several types of fungus that will grow on wood mulch and wood siding on houses. A chlorine bleach solution usually takes care of the house and raking the ground will help dry out the problem on the ground. You could spray the tree trunk with a strong stream of water or use a dormant oil spray.
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Question: Anne, I have just discovered white, sticky gel on the green "leaves" of all my 50 Leland Cypress trees. My neighbor across the street has the same stuff on his 20 or so Leland Cypress trees. Do you have any idea what this might be and what I might be able to do about it? The trees all 10 feet tall and very green and about 4 years old. This is the first time we have encountered any problem at all, much less this particular symptom. Thank you very much for any information you could provide. Regards, Steve
Anne Clapp: I think the problem is probably one of the scale insects. It could be a white cotton-cushion scale or juniper scale. Lady Beetles are usually the organic gardeners method of control but a horticultural oil spray is also effective. The systemic insecticide Cygon is an effective chemical control.
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Question: I have a question about hollie bushes. We live in Maine and planted hollies last year and they were really looking great this spring. We had our yard sprayed with weed killer and shortly after about half of the leaves began to turn yellow and fall off. The leaves that are turning yellow also have brown spots on the underside about 3/32 in dia.
The new buds that the berries develop from are also brown.
The people that sprayed claim that it is a desease on the hollies. That would be quite a coincedence I think. We have had a two long periods of rain this spring.
I think that a little weed killer may have blown onto them during spraying. What is you take on our problem? Thank you ahead of time, Linda The people that sprayed are telling us that it is desease and not their fault.
Anne Clapp: Remember that about half the leaves of a holly plant turn yellow and fall off each year so the yellowing of the oldest leaves may be natural leaf drop. Because the new growth is turning brown I would question whether it could be a late frost that killed tender new growth or the weed killer. Most herbicides that drift into shrubs with tender new growth will damage the plants.
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Question: Hi Anne, We have just moved to Efland, and sadly our septic system is in the front yard. We want to rent a bed shaper and plant some decorative small shrubs in the area and then mulch to hide the unsightly green things. We do not want anything large or anything that grows large that has to be trimmed. We were thinking of using the dwarf nandinas and maybe something else, like the burning bush. Can you give us the names of a few shrubs or something with showy and pretty leaves that we could use? Love to listen to you on Saturday mornings on WPTF.
Anne Clapp: Dwarf nandinas would be fine but the burning bush is notorious for seeding in and becoming a nuisance. I would try some dwarf evergreens instead creepers such as Blue Rug juniper are low maintenance and there are several cryptomerias and thread leaf junipers that will stay small.
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Question: I just checked my garden this morning and found some of my plants (summer squash,pumpkins,beans and a few tomatoes) leaves have yellow spots and on some plants they are completey yellow or dead. I live in Northeast PA. Some ideas please. Thanks Brian Hewitt
Anne Clapp: Could it be aphids? They are doing quite a bit of damage in this area this year. With a cool spring and the rain in mid-Atlantic states it could also be a viral disease.
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Question: My Leland Cyprus trees have white milky things on them that has drops of water dripping from the bottom.What is this & how do I get rid of it. Jay
Anne Clapp: I think you have a cottony scale or juniper scale insect on the trees. Spraying with the systemic insecticide Cygon may help. Lady bugs also attack scale insects. If the weather were cooler you could use a horticultural oil spray but those products can do damage to plants when temperatures reach the nineties.
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Question: Bradford Pear trees in our area (the ones that we have also) all the leaves are turning brown (very dark brown). Do you know what this problem could be? Kathy G.
Anne Clapp: If the very tips of the stems that have black leaves have a very small curve like a shepherd's crook, the problem is a disease called fireblight. It is very common on Bradford pears and cotoneaster. The control is to cut the stems at least 6 inches below the damaged leaves and get them off your property. You will need to clean your pruning shears with chlorine bleach or alcohol between cuts to keep from spreading the disease. There is a streptomycin spray that is effective in treating the disease but it is a bit pricey. |
