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Ask Anne Clapp - Archives - Page 3
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Question: I have planted 20 leyland cypress and they have been in the ground since July of 2004. They now are turning yellow like they are going to die out. I consulted a garden center here and was told they needed fertilizer and to add something else to the soil by digging a trench beyond the drip line and fine mulch and fertilizer. The mulch is to keep the soil from being compacted because it is mostly red . Is this a common problem with leylands? I am in high hopes these trees can be saved.
Anne Clapp: Compacted red clay soil does cause a problem around plants if the drainage for the plants is poor. If you loosened the soil around the planting holes to a depth of at least 15 inches and made a planting hole at least 3 times wider than the pot the plants came in they should be able to grow out into the red clay. If the soil was not loosened before you planted I don't think digging a trench and filling it with mulch will do much good. I would have a soil test done to see if you need to add lime to the area and to see how much fertilizer you need to apply. I also think you would do some good by applying a good layer of mulch to the top of the soil around the plants. It will keep the soil from drying out and provide organic material to the soil in time. For information on getting a soil test call your local county co-operative extension service office. In Wake County the number is 250-1084.
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Question: Hello Anne, a little advice please. We have had a largish rubber plant for probably 20yrs and are considering planting it near a wall in the garden as it is becoming too big for the conservatory, Do you think it would survive outside and if so are there any precautions you think we should take ? Im thinking particularly of winter frosts etc.? Your advice greatly appreciated. Thanks, John T.
Anne Clapp: Unless you live in the Zone 9 areas of Florida and Southern California it is extremely hard to grow a rubber tree plant outside. It does not tolerate temperatures below freezing so you would have to build some sort of protective frame around the plant in the winter.
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Question: I have seen the minature rose bushes and I wonder how easy are they to grow? Can they be planted in the yard, and where would be a good place, if so? Thanks. J.G.
Anne Clapp: Miniature roses get the same treatment as their big brothers and sisters. They need at least 6 hours of sun for good bloom. Many of them get to be quite large bushes. The size of the flower is what makes them miniature so don't be surprised by 4 foot tall bushes. If the plants are described as growing to no more than 3 feet you may want to consider planting them in pots or raised beds just to get the plants to a height where it is easy to care for them.
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Question: Anne, I love listening to you on Saturday mornings. Thank you for all the information. One day I was listening and you cited three holidays for fertilizing your lawn. Two were Valentine's Day and Veteran's Day. What was the third? Also, what is the best way to get rid of a heavy Bermuda grass infestation in fescue? Thanks again, Dean B.
Anne Clapp: Actually it was Labor Day, Thanksgiving and if you really have to Valentines Day. The February application for fescue should be less than ¼ pound of nitrogen per 100 square feet of lawn area or you will have problems with brown patch during the summer. Bermuda infestation in fescue may be controlled with a product called Turflan Ester.
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Question: Dear Anne, I recently moved to Murrells Inlet SC. I have 2 questions. What kind of flowers do well in this location? I wasn't very successful coming from RI. Also my crepe myrtle tree has a mould dust on it. Any help will be most appreciated, thanks in advance. - Roseann L.
Anne Clapp: Murrells Inlet is in agricultural zone 8. It has sandy soil and with so much new development in the area there isn't as much shade in some neighborhoods as it used to have. Red Hot Poker, Crinum Lilies, Daylilies, Lantana, Blanket Flower (Gaillardia), Hawaiian Hibiscus, verbena, coneflowers, baptisia, cannas, zinnias, geraniums, petunias and roses are just a few of the plants I see growing down there. Look for a copy of the new book on gardening in the Carolinas by Jim Wilson and Toby Bost. They have a lot of good suggestions. You might also go to some of the area gardens like Brookgreen Gardens for suggestions. As for the mildew on the creper myrtle, try spraying the new growth with the fungicide Immunox to prevent it this year.
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Question: I'm having a problem, my neighbors Centipede Grass has started to smother out my fescue. What can I do? Is it a waste of time to overseed? I need help, my front yard looks wonderful, what should I do?
Anne Clapp: The only way I know that you can co-exist with a centipede lawn next door is to put some sort of physical barrier along the lot line. It could be a natural area that you spray with Round-up to kill of the centipede coming over or you could use a mowing strip of some kind and keep the centipede out. You can also make sure you lime your lawn and fertilize it well along the lot line. The lime and fertilize usually kill out the centipede.
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Question: Anne, I enjoy your spots on TV and your show on the radio very much. I have what will probably be an easy question for you.
I have quite a few English Boxwoods in front of our house. The house is twenty years old and I think that these were the original foundation plants. I like the plants but would like for a couple of reasons to cut them back to about half of their size. Can you describe the procedure that I should use to cut them back without killing them and when I should do it. Thanks very much, Patrick P.
Anne Clapp: I don't think there is any problem with cutting the plants back about half way. My method is to cut back the tallest shoots to the branch they are attached to. Pull those long stems out then shape the stems that remain to get the shape you want. That opens up the plant and gives it some places to make new growth without getting so tall. It is not too late to cut the plants back now. You can safely prune to the end of March.
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Question: When is the best time of year to break up or divide daylilies? - Mike O., Durham
Anne Clapp: I think the best time to divide and replant daylilies is August but it can be done when the new growth appears in the spring. The trick is to make sure they are watered frequently. You probably want to wait for a few weeks before you fertilize plants moved in the spring.
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Question: I have 2 large spots of clover growing. How do I get rid of it? Is the lawn getting too much water this early in the season? Thanks, Walt
Anne Clapp: Use one of the weed killers labeled for use on lawns to take care of the clover. It should contain MCPP and 2-4D for best results. Actually we are a bit below average soil moisture content so if you are having a problem with standing water there is a drainage problem in the lawn.
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Question: Hi, I recieved an habiscus plant from my daughter and it seems whenever it blooms, some leaves turn yellow, dry up, and fall off. Do I need to fertilize it, and if so how much, and with what? Also how often should I water it. I live in Wisconsin and it stays indoors. Thank you, Lynn
Anne Clapp: Hibiscus plants bloom on new growth and as a plant puts on new growth it often loses the leaves from a previous growth set. To keep the plant healthy and producing new leaves you do need to fertilize it. I prefer one of the liquid fertilizers for blooming houseplants used at half strength every other watering from April to September.
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Question: Anne, I have a Rubber Tree that someone gave me two years ago when my mom passed away. It is beautiful but has gotten so big. I was wondering if I could put it outside on my patio this summer or would the hot sunlight damage it? Thanks for your help, Mary Ann
Anne Clapp: Rubber trees will grow on the patio during the summer but you have to give it some protection for a few days to get it acclimated to the sun. Put it in the shadiest place for a day or two and then gradually pull it out to full sun. Keep it well watered.
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Question: I received a beautiful gift of potted tulips for Valentine's Day, and would love to replant the bulbs and enjoy the flowers next season. How do I need to care for them? -Jennifer S.
Anne Clapp: Jennifer, tulips really don't do well the second year in the Raleigh area. The ones that are forced in the greenhouse are not ones that adapt well to this area. They require colder soil temperatures in the winter and cooler summer soil temperatures as well. Taking a nice photograph of them to enjoy the next year is about the only way to see such lovely blooms next year.
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Question: Hello Anne, I live in Florida and planted three cayenne plants from seed last year. They all produced very well. At the end of the season, I kept the plants in the sun on warm days and brought them in on cooler ones, just so as not to kill a plant. Much to my surprise, this spring, the plant began setting flowers. However, the flowers after fully forming, drop off at the stem. They look fine as does the whole plant, they just fall off at the stem end, so I know it is not simply flower drop after being fertilized . This scenario occured at the end of the season last year, but at that time I attributed this to cooler weather coming in, as the same thing happened to my sweet red pepper plant, too. The fruits that were already set prospered, grew, and were delicious, however, any new flowers dropped off and no new ones ever formed. This plant, too, is now showing signs of regrowth. I realize it is difficult at best to diagnose long distance, but do you have any clues as to why the flower drop is occuring? Could it be that the outdoor temps, seventies during the day, sixties at night, are still to cool and I inadvertantly forced blloming and rushed the season by bringing the plants in during the colder months? I also have a dozen young four inch tall plants that I started from seed last month that are doing well that have been treated exactly the same way.
One other question; I very often find a swarm of tiny black ants inside my flower pots when I lift them. I spray them with insectacidal soap and it seems to help. Do they cause damage or are they just a natural nuisance? If that is the case I can learn to live with it and not use chemicals.
Thank you for your help,
Barry R.
Anne Clapp: I think the problem with your pepper plants not setting fruit is lack of pollination of the plants. Often at the beginning and end of the growing season the insects that usually do the pollination are not active. When the blooms open you can take a cotton swab and transfer pollen from one bloom to another and one plant to another.
Ants are often more of a nuisance than anything else. They are probably coming to some sugar source on the plant. Other insects sometimes secrete honeydew as they feed on plant leaves. The ants collect the honeydew and take it back to their nest. Some gardeners have luck with one of the ant bait containers placed near the plants. The ants eat the bait and take it back to the nest where it kills the insects living there.
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Question: Anne, I know the best time to plant cool season grass is in the fall, however I need your advice on seeding vs sod growth in moderate shade this spring. I know that Kentucky bluegrass/tall fescue/fine fescue variety of seed does well in shade.
Is there a particular cultivar of this seed mix that would do well in
this area? Also, is there a place to buy sod that would do well? What should I ask for? Thanks for your help.
Anne Clapp: Fescue and fescue bluegrass mixes will survive in light shade if they do not have a lot of root competition from trees. No grass does really well in the shade in the Raleigh area which is the reason that groundcovers such as mondo grass, pachysandra and bishop's weed are so popular.
If you have to establish a fescue lawn in the spring in this area you have much better luck with sod than with seeding. The yellow pages have several good sources listed under sod and sodding services.
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Question: My beautiful Gardenia, which is about 7 feet tall, has a black coating on the leaves that falls off the leaves if i touch them. It's almost paper-like. I live in East Central Florida and it is an outdoor plant that was already established when I moved into this house two years ago. What can I do to remove this, I assume is, black fungus? Thank you in advance for your help. Vickie D.
Anne Clapp: Welcome to the world of sooty mold on gardenias. It can be removed with an insecticidal soap spray. Leave the spray on the plant for about 30 minutes then wash it off the leaves of the plant. The problem is caused by insects such as aphids on the plant; they leave a sugary secretion on the plant leaves and that then forms the black mold. Watch for aphids or white flies on the gardenia and spray with an insecticide or insecticidal soap to kill the insects. This will help control the sooty mold next season.
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Question: Hi Anne, If I plant foxglove and phlox seeds now (starting inside) should they bloom this year? Thanks, PD
Anne Clapp: The phlox should bloom and the foxglove may bloom late in the season.
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Question: Anne, Is it time to treat your lawn for Crabgrass? Plus I have three types of weeds growing in my yard. One has a purple tube like bloom. I think one is chickweed and the other reminds me of oregano but its growing in a small patch. What can I use to tackle these weeds and when can I start to put it on my yard? I have attached three photos of the weeds. Thank you and I love The Weekend Gardener! - Robbie C.
Anne Clapp: I think you have chickweed, both mouse-eared and glossy, and henbit (the purple bloom). Use one of the broadleafed weed killers labeled for use on lawns to kill them. Spray on a day when the temperature is above 50. As for the crabgrass – wait until the forsythia finishes blooming to put out the pre-emergent crabgrass killer.
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Question: Anne, I have amaryllis growing in pots. I would like to plant them outdoors. Should I do this in the spring while the foliage is still growing or wait until the leaves die in fall? How deep do you plant them? Thanks, Joseph
Anne Clapp: I plant my amaryllis outside after the soil has warmed up in the spring. It is usually safe to put them out the last week in April. Leave all the foliage in place and keep them watered if we don't have rain. The foliage should last until late fall. I fertilize mine when I plant them in the spring.
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Question: Anne, Can I apply hollytone to my hollies over the next few weeks. It says spring application but not sure if the time is right. George B.
Anne Clapp: I prefer waiting to apply my Hollytone sometime during the middle of March. The soil is really too cold in February for it to do much good.
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Question: I have searched the internet and several books for a list of plants. All I can seem to find are sun plants that can tolerate shade or full shade plants. Actually, plants is not the word I should be using. I am looking for a list of perennials and annuals that can be planted under a deciduous tree therefore getting the summer shade but having the winter sun to deal with. I would appreciate any help you can give me with this. I know of one and that is Lenten Rose (Helleborous). Are there others you can list for me? Linda L.
Anne Clapp: You might try hosta, epimediums, astilbe, foamflower, hardy begonia. Annuals that might work are caladiums (bulbs get dug for the winter), wax begonias, cleome, coleus, impatiens and pentas.
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Question: 1.) I planted 3 fragrant sarcococca last fall and 6 chirmen marlberry last November on a slope behind a river birch in soil amended with bagged manure with new pine bark mulch. They have not been watered except the week or so they were planted. (They have gotten afternoon sun since the birch is deciduous.)
They now both have many leaves, stems, and flower buds that have turned a rusty solid brown. The bad areas of the marlberries are generally the tops of the plant, not underneath. The leaves are crispy but have no spots/signs of bugs. There are no yellow leaves, just areas of the plants that have turned brown and crisp. The leaves on the sarcococca are now just about all fallen off. The nearby Little Henry's Sweetspires seem unaffected.
2.) I also planted a winter daphne this winter, against a shed under an overhang and raised on a mound to increase drainage. It is also loosing leaves from the bottom of the plant, but they turn yellow first and have large dark brown spots on them. Fungus?
3.) During the same project we also planted two large hollies that came from a nursery with pencil-tip sized black spots on the green tops of some of the leaves. The spots are evenly spaced on the leaves as if someone had put them on with a felt-tip black marker.
I've spent $5000 on landscaping but all of my plants seem in crisis. It has been winter so it's hard for me to imagine that its over-watering or fungus. Are there any general products I could spray that might cure these problems. I tried the county extension agency for Durham a couple of years ago, but they want leaves, stems, roots, and still don't seem to give specific answers.
Thank you!!!
Nicole, Durham County
Anne Clapp: The problem with the sarcococca and chirmen marlberry may be lack of water. It has been a dry season with huge fluctuations in temperatures. Plants put in the ground in the fall need at least one inch of water a week until roots are established by the next summer. We have not had that in the form of rain so they did need watering. Lack of water would cause the symptoms you describe. Sweetspire usually takes quite a bit of water from the soil and if it was an established plant it may have been using the water that was available.
As for the daphne – putting it under the roof overhang may have reduced the amount of water for that plant as well. It needs evenly moist soil but does not like to stand in water. The daphne may have been planted a bit low in its raised mound. Never plant it at a depth lower than it was in the nursery pot. The yellow leaves could just be old leaves that are dropping from the plant in its normal growth pattern or it could be from a problem with the roots. It does not sound like something a spray would control. The Durham extension office is right in saying they can't recommend a spray if they don't have enough information to diagnose the cause of the problem and know what spray will cure it.
The holly sounds as if it might have a leaf spot disease. I would check with the nursery where you bought it for their recommendations on a cure.
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Question: I live in NC in Zone 8. Up untill yesterday I had a thriving pond. I lifted out a root-bound mass about 23 by 23 inches and cut and divided my plants and returned them to the pond. I put a hose in and filled the pond a few inches. All the fish died. The pond has been thriving for about 4 years. What do you think happened! - Becky
Anne Clapp: I think there was too much chlorine or other chemical in the water you added to the pond.
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Question: Do my Junipers probably need some iron? They are turning a greyish or kind of a dull yellow color.
Anne Clapp: I am not sure what might be wrong with your junipers. They will turn grey or a dark purple when the weather is cold. Yellow may be a sign of a soil drainage problem that lets water collect around the roots of the plant or it could be they need to be fertilized this year. The nitrogen in the fertilizer will help green the plants up.
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Question: Hello Anne, Could you please help me, I have tom cats in the neighborhood and they seem to be using my two shrubs for a urinal. I live in Maine and it seems to really be noticeable in spring. I can not seem to catch them in the act to shoo them away. The smell is awful. The shrubs are in bark which lays on a large black tarp as a base. I have tried mothballs and even vingear but they still mark.
Anne Clapp: There are some dog and cat repellents on the market that will work for a short period of time. They are sprays that provide a scent that makes the animals think someone else has already marked the territory. One of the gardening catalogs has also advertised some plastic “spears” on a base that you place around the shrubs. The cats don't like to step on the points and avoid the area. Chicken wire just under the mulch also gives an unstable footing that will deter most cats.
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Question: Anne, I was listening to WPTF this am. I'm one of those people who has always fertilized my fescue lawn in mid-Feb. I also traditionally have a problem with brown patch. Last summer, a garden center suggested that I spray the grass with a Systemic Fungicide. They also told me that for it to be most effective, I should spray before the brown patch ever starts.
If I understood correctly this am, I should not fertilize in Feb. - only in Sept. and Nov. Is this correct? When should I spray the Systemic Fungicide? Thanks, Nancy
Anne Clapp: As we said on the show Saturday, if your grass is not really green in early February you may want to fertilize with a very light application of fast release nitrogen - not more than 1/4 pound of nitrogen per 100 square feet - or use something like Epsom salts or Ironite for a fast green-up. Brown patch fungus can be controlled with a systemic fungicide applied in early May before temperatures get warm enough for fungal diseases to spread.
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Question: Hello Anne, I am in Charleston, SC and on my father's estate there is a huge camellia bush that is too large to move. I would like to root some stems from this bush to share with other family members. Any suggestions, when and how? I would appreciate any help in this area. Thanks! Roberta from "The Holy City."
Anne Clapp: Charleston does have some beautiful camellias; I love to be asked to judge their shows. Camellias are easily rooted from semi-hard wood in July and August. Semi-hard wood is the stage of plant growth when the new stem ends are beginning to turn brown instead of green. You can bend the twig and it will break. I have the best luck with cuttings taken from the tip end of the main branches from the trunk, not the smaller side branches. Cut a piece of this years wood only; the darker wood from last season does not root. Keep the cuttings damp and cool until you prepare them for rooting. Stems with at least three leaves work best and I have good luck with cuttings that are 4 to 6 inches long. Remove a lower leaf or two, leaving at least two leaves on the stem, and cut the stem at a diagonal angle across the leaf scar on the stem. Dip the stem in water and then in a powered rooting hormone such as Rootone or dip the end in a rooting hormone solution. The cuttings are stuck in a mixture of half sand and half peat moss that is damp. Keep the cuttings moist by covering them with plastic. They should be kept in a shady area until the cuttings take root. You might check with the folks at Middleon Plantation; they have had some information on taking camellia cuttings in the past.
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Question: Anne, Help! I have Leyland Cyprus trees on my property line and they are dieing. I have attached a photo. Limbs are dieing from bottom up and it is happening to all of them. They do not get full sunlight and are about 8 years old, but have done well up to now. What can be done to save them? Thanks, Bobby
Anne Clapp: Leyland Cypress decline when they do not get enough sun but they usually become “leggy” and sparse looking before the branches begin to die. We have had a problem with a disease called Seiridium unicorne on Leylands in North Carolina. Check the bark in the damaged areas for signs of grey discoloration and sap oozing from the bark. The canker growth is usually below the lowest limb that is damaged. You may want to call your local cooperative extension service office to see if the disease has been reported in your area. At this point the only control I know for the disease is removal of the infected trees.
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Question: Hi, We are going to be moving here soon and we planted a Japanese cherry blossim about a year and a half ago...its still tiny and well we were wondering if there was a way to replant it into our new yard when we move?...will it be safe and how do we go about doing that?...Never replanted anything but flowers before. Thank you, Sandra
Anne Clapp: If a Japanese cherry is still small enough to dig and put in a pot it can be moved. Make sure you have as much of the root system as possible when you dig it. Put the plant in a pot large enough to hold the root ball you dig and add enough potting soil to the container to stabilize the plant. Keep it watered until you are ready to replant. The less time the plant is out of the ground the more successful you will be.
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Question: I have planted 130 Leyland Cypress this last fall as a privacy bearer. They are about 3-4 feet high. On some of the trees the lower branches are turning brown. There is plenty of sun with no shade. There is a male dog in the area that happens by alot, but might there be another probem. Thank you in advance for any advise that you may have to offer.
Anne Clapp: Leyland Cypress does not do well in soil that stays damp and will die back if it has wet feet. It must have full sun or it thins out and gets very leggy. It has also been infected in North Carolina by a fungus, Seiridium unicorne, that causes a bark canker and twig dieback. Look for a grey discoloration on the bark, resin oozing from cracks in the bark and yellow to brown discoloration on foliage above the injury. Trees that have been in the ground for just a few years may also suffer from a dieback disease, especially when they have been under stress. There is often a canker on the stem and the plant dies beyond that point. If you contact your local cooperative extension office they should be able to tell you how to have test run that would determine if there is a disease present.
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Question: Anne, My husband and I have just bought our first house. I love plants and before all I have been able to do is have some indoor hanging baskets in our apartment. What are some GOOD, EASY to care for plants that would be good for your new yard? Jonie from Garner
Anne Clapp: Congratulations on your new home and have a wonderful time getting plants for the new yard. My first advice to someone getting started is to spend time preparing the soil for plants – then purchase plants to put in the ground. The soil in Wake County needs a lot of organic material such as composted leaf mulch, finely ground pine bark or composted manures. It is a lot easier to till soil and amend it before you start planting than it is to do prepare soil around each plant as you plant it. As for recommending specific plants – remember that what is easy-care and pretty to me may not be something you would like. Find a good local nursery with staff that are knowledgeable.
About the plants they sell. In Garner you might try Wall's Creek Nursery or go to Fuquay-Varina to The Garden Hut. Find plants that you really like – they are a lot easier to take care of than something I might suggest and that you really don't like the looks of.
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Question: Is it o.k. to trim crepe myrtles this time of the year in Mississippi? Thanks for your reply.
Anne Clapp: Yes you may prune crepe myrtle in February and March. It doesn't need much pruning, just remove dead wood, crossing stems and growth smaller than a pencil in diameter. Cutting them to look like a hatrack is not healthy for the plant.
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Question: I have a tall bushy tree, I think they are called junipers. They are dried in the middle and they leave such a mess outside. I am thinking of cutting them down. Someone told me that if you kill the tree it makes a haven for termites. Please advise. -Char
Anne Clapp: Termites like wood and if wood is easily accessible they do congregate and eat. If you want to remove the junipers cut them down as close to the ground as possible. If the plants are not too large you can often remove part of the trunk in the ground by using a mattock. Quite frankly I don't think there is a problem with just cutting the plants down and using one of the stump rotting chemicals available in the garden stores. Junipers should cause no more problem with termites than any other decaying wood source on your property.
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Question: Hello Anne, I live in Dallas,Tx. I have a very beautiful and large gardenia bush that is over 10 years old. The problem is that it has now become too large for it's location. It obtructs our view of our grandchildren while they swim in the summers. Can it and if so when can it be successfully moved. Any tips on moving? I don't wont to loose it, just move it. Thanks, Brenda
Anne Clapp: Gardenias may be moved but the larger they are the more difficult it is to move them successfully. They do move more easily when they are dormant so many people do move them in the winter. You have the best luck if you root prune the plant the year before you move it so you can force the plant to make new feeder roots and make a smaller root ball to move. In the Raleigh area I root prune in late September and move plants in February. You will also find it easier to remove some of the top growth by pruning just before you move the plant. That way there is less leaf surface for the roots to feed. You really don't want the plant to bloom the year you move it because it needs to develop a new root system first.
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Question: Ms Anne, I have a weeping yaupon and a ruby loropetalum in partial sun. Both are are a bit leggy, but they will stay in this location. I am wondering if a little fertilizer would encourage good growth or more legginess. Also, would cutting the long shoots of the loropetalum encourage bushier growth? Thank you, Joseph
Anne Clapp: I think the words partial sun are the source of you problem. The plants are probably trying to stretch to find more light as both are sun loving plants. More fertilizer will not help the problem, only make it worse. You can prune the plants to keep them shorter and promote bushier growth.
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Question: I am trying to grow orchids from seed and I need to know what chemical are used in the take root rooting hormone. Thanks.
Anne Clapp: I have never grown orchids from seed myself but I have been in the nursery when they were mixing the gel for germination and helped out. It is a bit more complicated than sowing seeds for other flowering plants. My best advice is to find a local orchid society or contact the American Orchid Society for a copy of the specific information for the orchid species you are trying to propagate. There is a copy of the book Home Orchid Growing by Rebecca Northen in the Wake County library system. That source might be a good beginning reference for you.
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Question: Dear Anne, I live in southeastern PA (Bucks County), and I have been having a tough time getting my Otto Luykens to thrive. In certain spots of the yard, they do well, particularly when I can get the deer to stop eating them. They also seem to do better near the house, which perhaps provides a wind screen and/or a deterrent to the deer. However, there is one spot, about 20 feet from the house where they continually die after 1-2 years. In this location, we planted three about 9 months ago and covered them with netting for the deer. Two look OK; however, one's leaves are slowly turning brown after starting to turn up about a month ago. I suspect this is going to suffer the slow death of earlier plants. Any suggestions?
Anne Clapp: The symptoms you describe for the Otto Luyken laurels usually indicate a root problem. There are soil borne root diseases such as phytoptera that will cause a gradual decline and death of plants. The usual recommendation is to remove and destroy the infected plants and not plant something from the same family in that area. Water drainage problems in the soil will also cause the roots of plants to rot and show the same symptoms. In those cases you will probably see standing water or soggy soil near the damaged plant. Drainage can be improved by raising the soil level of the planting beds or improving the drainage of the soil be rerouting water in the soil.
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Question: I have two peace lilies, one blooms the other doesn't and I'm getting brown spots on the tip of the leaves. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong? - Katrinka
Anne Clapp: The lack of bloom could be not enough light or one plant could be younger than the other and not yet ready to bloom. Brown tips on leaves usually mean a problem with watering. Some water systems have a fluoride compound added that will turn the tips of leaves dark. You can use rain water or let water stand in a container for several days before you water the plants. Brown leaf tips can also be caused by too much or too little water. Never let the plants stand in water and let the soil dry out between waterings.
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Question: Hello Anne, I purchased a Camelia Japonica last spring, When I bought it , it had already blossomed. (By the way she's in a pot) So this time around I've noticed all of the buds to be falling to the ground and it hasn't blossomed yet. Is this normal? Also last year she had a few buds left, but when she blossomed they fell to the ground immediately. Does my bush have a disease? I would also like any other tips you have about pruning, and winter care. Thanks, Brittanay from Apex.
Anne Clapp: Camellia japonicas will lose flower buds when the plant sets too many flowers and when the plant is having a problem with its moisture supply. Plants do need moisture in the summer when the plant is setting blooms for the fall and spring. Make sure the plant is in a pot large enough to protect the roots of the plant from getting too hot or too cold. The plants I grow outdoors in pots are double potted so there is a layer of soil and a pot to keep the plant roots from getting too hot in the summer and from freezing when they are in contact with the side of a cold pot in the winter. Plants will lose frozen buds. Make sure your plant is in a shady, protected area to get the best bloom.
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Question: Hello. I experienced a late frost and had left some of my houseplants outside namely my rubber trees, and my spider plant also a yucca tree. Is there anything I can do to bring them back??? Or should I just buy new plants? Thanks, Kelli
Anne Clapp: The three plants you mentioned will be damaged by a few minutes exposure to freezing temperatures and are most likely dead after being left out in sub-freezing temperatures overnight. Put the old plants on a compost pil and get new ones. Your will probably want to wait until warm weather to replace the plants.
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Question: Is there any way to prevent waxleaf ligustrum from berrying? We have a large one near our driveway and the mess and birds during berrying season have us wanting to chop it down. Any alternatives short of such a drastic measure? Bob from Dallas
Anne Clapp: There is no way to prevent formation of berries on ligustrum other than cutting off the blooms before they form berries. It does not hurt the plants to shear them during their blooming season.
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Question: I live in New Jersey and am pot growing lantanas. Should I cut it back hard? Thanks, Jackie
Anne Clapp: I have always had better luck cutting back lantanas when they start to put out new growth. When they are in an active growth spurt you can cut them back as much as you like but if they are not in a period of putting on new growth mine do not seem to survive being pruned severly.
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Question: I have a camelia bush (about 4 years old) that has to be moved at this time. I would like to know that when I remove it from it's present location, can I keep it in a container for the time being. Or, do I have to plant it in the soil immediately. I was hoping that I could "transplant it to a container" throughout the winter (keeping it in a protected area near the house outside). Thank you for any advice you can give me. Margaret
Anne Clapp: You can pot up your camellia after you dig it up. Make sure you have as many roots as possible. It will take a large pot for a four year old plant. Put a potting soil or a mixture of sand and composted pine bark in the bottom of the container and fill in around the plant ball that you remove from the ground. Water the plant well when you put it in the pot and make sure it is kept watered until you put it back in the ground. You may leave the plant outside in a protected area but make sure you pile some sort of protective mulch around the pot so the roots of the plant do not freeze.
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Question: I live in Blakely, Ga. I have a Camelia bush that is blooming right now. Could you please tell me how I can root some cuttings from this bush?
Anne Clapp: I root my camellias in July or August after the new growth has hardened off. The growth is in what is known as the semi-hardwood stage when you should be able to break the stem. The cutting should be 4 to 5 inches long. Make a diagonal cut at the base of the stem and put the cutting in warm water for a few minutes so it can absorb water. Remove the stem from the water and dip the end in a rooting hormone for woody plants. I use Rootone. The cuttings are stuck in a moist mixture or half sand and half peatmoss. I cut off the top of a gallon milk jug and use the bottom portion of the jug as my rooting box. I do not leave more than 3 leaves on any cuttings I take. Cover the rooting box with a clear plastic bag and place it in a place that has light but is not in the sun. It will take at least 8 weeks for the camellias to begin rooting and you will have to check them to make sure the soil mix remains moist.
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Question: Anne, My wife and I just put in 5 Leyland Cyprus trees along with some plants around the house. My question is will the plants and trees make it threw the winter even with the weather being warm? I'm afraid that the plants and trees that we just spent so much time on will die this weekend with a frost expected? If the trees and plants will be OK, is it wise to place a clear bag over the trees to keep the frost off them?
Thanks Anne for your time, Robert J.
Anne Clapp: There is no reason to be worried about the Leyland Cypress you have planted. Just make sure you water them on a weekly basis. The cold air and freezing temperatures do remove more water than a small root system can handle for a long period of time. As long as the plants are watered and you have a 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch over the area where the planting hole is located you should have no problem.
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Question: Anne, we over-fertilized our vegetable garden, probably by 15 times more than we should have. Of course, it is bare now, but we want to plant in a couple of months. What should we do to keep plants from burning?
Anne Clapp: The best thing to do is to have a soil test made to see how much damage has been done to the soil. Soil tests in North Carolina are performed by the Agronomics Department of the NC Department of Agriculture. You can call them in Raleigh at 919/733-2656 or contact your county co-operative extension service office for information on taking samples and submitting them for testing. It is a free service to North Carolina residents and the test results will give you information on exactly what measures you may need to take. The major problem with excess fertilizer is usually nitrogen that burns plant roots. One method of chemically treating soils to reduce the available nitrogen is to use a product called gypsum. It is usually sold at garden stores and feed-seed companies. The farmers often call the product land plaster and use it when they have a chemical spill. In many cases the excess nitrogen will wash out with winter rains so you may not have a problem by the time planting time comes around.
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Question: Hi Anne, Here's another hibiscus question. My hibiscus is two years old but it hasn't bloomed yet. I've grown other hibiscus in the past in partly sunny, partly shady areas in other homes we've had, and they've bloomed. This one has healthy leaves and strong stalks, and from around October until the spring has either leaf buds or bloom buds but when spring comes nothing happens. I hadn't thought I'd given it too much fertilizer. Finally this summer I began feeding it a bloom booster, and while that worked with some of my other blooming perennials it didn't work with the hibiscus.
It's December and it's full of buds, leaf or blossom, I don't know which. Is there anything I can do now to increase the next spring's blossom potential? After this late spring freeze the buds fell off. What to do? Joyce
Anne Clapp: Get the hibiscus as much sun as you can. They need at least 8 hours of light for really good bloom and in some cases an indoor plant may need additional help from a grow light. Keeping the plant evenly moist but not letting it stand in water is important, too. Hibiscus blooms are frost killed at 32F so keeping them warm ( and most really like temperatures above 45 ) is very important.
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Question: I just discovered your web site, and have gotten many great answers to questions I did not know where to get answered. My question is: is it possible to propagate Leland Cypress from cuttings? If so, what is the proper procedure for doing so. I live in the Greenville, SC area; and am trying to get a privacy screen started for a new development going in next to my property. Thank you in advance for your assistance. Sidney S.
Anne Clapp: Leyland Cypress is propagated from cuttings taken during the dormant season. Any time between now and February take cuttings of the tips of the branches. The cutting should be at least 2 inches long. I soak my cuttings in warm water for about an hour then pull the bottom needles off to give a stem of at least ¾ inch. Make a slanted cut across the bottom of the stem and dip the cut end in a rooting hormone such as Rootone or Hormonex. I put my cuttings in a 2 inch deep flat plastic tray filled with a moist mixture of half peat moss and half sand. The cuttings are left outside for the rest of the winter in a cold frame. I use the bottom of a Styrofoam ice chest with 3 inches of rocks in the bottom so I can keep the humidity level up and I cover the ice chest with a clear, heavy plastic bag. I leave my improvised rooting bed in the carport where it gets good light and some protection from extreme cold. Most of my cuttings made in December are rooted by April and get potted up in separate pots.
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Question: I have two questions. Firstly I have two rabbits which are allowed to roam my garden but also like to eat a lot of my evergreens. Do you know of any plants they would stay away from? I also have a lovely yorkie who doesn't leave my lawn looking too lovely as I now have patches of urine scald all over it. Is there anything you can recommend to neutralize it and save my lawn? Thank you so much.
Anne Clapp: Rabbits seem to eat anything at least once. Most things get left alone after the plants get large and tough. Mesh wire fencing around plants seems to be the best solution. Just 12 inch tall wire mesh around planting beds is enough to keep them out. As for the urine scald, try Gypsum sprinkled in the area. Water to dilute the urine works if you hose it off or use a watering can when the dog takes her walk. I have a natural area that the dog is trained to use and that solves the problem nicely.
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Question: Ms. Clapp, Where is that info on the upside down tomato growing procedure? What do you think of hydropnics? Thanks, Dewayne
Anne Clapp: I think upside down growing might work on short tomato plants or salad tomatoes. I am going to try again this year. It did not work well for me in the Raleigh area on large plants. The rabbits ate the tops off because they were at ground level and they took so much water I was watering them twice a day. As for hydroponics, it works quite well if you follow directions and use a good fertilizer developed for liquid feeding. I tried one of the small home systems for growing lettuce, parsley and spinach and had good results. |
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Anne Clapp: From my experience chilli peppers are annual plants that are killed by cold weather. I usually save the seeds from the last pods to replant for next spring. If you have some that have grown for more than a year just do whatever you did to them last winter.
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Question: Dear Ms. Clapp, Per your instructions I planted cuttings of Pineapple sage in peat moss amd sand. What do I do now after it has rooted? Thanks! Rene
Anne Clapp: After the cuttings are rooted you can pot them up in a good quality potting soil. A small 3 inch pot is probably large enough for each cutting. Keep them in a warm area with good light and keep them watered until all danger of frost is over next spring. A little liquid fertilizer in March will make the plants more vigorous. They can then be put out in the garden in late April. You will have to keep the plants pinched back to keep them a compact size. If roots start growing out the bottom of the pots you should transplant them to a larger pot.
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Question: Anne, I have a gardenia house plant, I had it outside all summer & it was beautiful. We brought it indoors and it later developed a web across the leaves. I sprayed ortho spray (outdoors). We left it outside 2 or 3 weeks. Brought it back indoors. It looked great and even bloomed 4 or 5 flowers. Couple of weeks, after it got dry looking & brown leaves as is now. We have been watering and miracid fertilizer as always. We're taking the yellow & brown leaves off . Please tell us what to do, if anything. Thank you, Tony C.
Anne Clapp: Gardenias inside need a lot of light and the plants need to be watered enough so that the soil remains moist but not wet. The plant should be allowed to have a dormant season when it does not bloom. It does not need fertilizer until the spring when it is time to put on new growth.
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Question: My hibiscus blooms and leaves are smaller and blooms are not dark red but light colored. They are loaded with blooms and buds but just not as attractive. Hope you can help us. Thank you.
Anne Clapp: Hibiscus comes in all colors so the plant may be a variety that is not supposed to be dark red. Small leaves could be the result of not having enough sun, not having fertilizer when new growth is being formed or not enough moisture in the soil.
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Question: Hi Anne, I planted 3 large leaf ligustrums next to our house and they are growing like crazy, up to 9' . I'm so tired of pruning them so I called an extension agent and he said that they could be moved. Now, what do you recommend to put in their place? They got morning and some afternoon sun and are next to azaleas that will grow to 5' max. I'd like a dark leafed plant to show up against our light brick. Any suggestions would be so appreciated. Thanks.
Anne Clapp: You might try one of the Japanese hollies that look like boxwoods. The foliage would be a good contrast t the azaleas and would be pretty against a light wall. Stokes holly would also work in that area. Leucothoe, either drooping or coastal, would also work well.
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Question: Hi. How do I force tulips indoors? I don't have any trouble with paper whites. Are they the same? Thanks in advance, Vicky
Anne Clapp: Tulips need more chilling time than some of the other bulbs we force for indoor use. They would need to be refrigerated for at least 8 weeks before you plant them. Some people use a cold frame outside to get the cold temperatures. If you put them in the refrigerator be sure there are not any fresh fruits or vegetables stored with them because the ethylene gas given off by ripening fruits does harm the flower in the bulb. The chill time seems to be the major reason people have trouble forcing tulips.
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Question: I have a china tree. I would like to root it by planting the seeds or take clippings to plant at my golf course. How do I "root" this tree? Thanks, Rose
Anne Clapp: The plant that I know as Chinaberry is a Melia, a tropical tree in the mahogany family. It would not be hardy in this area. I think there are some other plants with white berries that people in this area call Chinaberry. If you are growing it, it obviously is hardy. Chinaberry trees grow easily and quickly from seed. Just take the seed from the tree after it gets ripe. Plant it about 1/2 inch deep. The seed just lies dormant in the ground until late spring when it will start to sprout. Chinaberry trees grow fairly quickly. Before you transplant any tree to your golf course make sure it is a plant the superintendent would like on the course. Some trees produce too much trash and spread so quickly they kill out grass.
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Question: Anne, I've been trying to establish a zoysia lawn over the past few years by planting plugs. Some areas seem to spread better than others, in fact some areas do not take at all. In these cases, the grass eventually disappears. Some areas allow weeds to grow in the midst of rather wide zoysia area, which is surprising considering the density of the zoysia roots. My questions: 1. How do I improve the success of the plugs and how/when do I do a better job of preventing weeds? 2. Any possibility of a focus area on zoysia (e.g. on-line, News 14, WPTF?) Truly appreciate the knowledge that you share. Regards, Tom M.
Anne Clapp: When you have trouble establishing grass in specific areas of a lawn it helps to get a soil test to see if there is a nutritional problem in the area. The kits are available from the state agronomy lab on Reedy Creek Road in Raleigh or you can get them from the county office of the Cooperative Extension Service. Another problem may be compacted soil. Tilling and amending soil in areas where you have a problem will speed up the spread of the plugs. Weeds will grow in Zoysia – but there just aren't as many of them and they don't do as much harm to the grass as they do to fescue. Cool season weeds like chickweed and henbit may be controlled with a pre-emergent weed killer applied in early September. Crabgrass may be controlled with a pre-emergent applied in mid-to-late March. It took me three years to get our Zoysia lawn established with plugs. The major weed problem is fescue grass deposited from seeds from the neighbors lawns when they re-seed every fall. I try to keep it under control by pulling everything green during the winter when the Zoysia is brown. Broadleaf weeds can be controlled in ”brown” Zoysia with a broadleaf weed killer in early spring before the grass starts to green up.
As for more information on Zoysia – maybe one of the commercial growers might want initiate that sort of effort.
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Question: Hi Anne Clapp, How do I keep cats from "pooping" in our yard? I use the commercial dog/cat repellents and that seems to work as long as it doesn't rain and wash away the granuales and the liquid sprays. I'm looking for
perennial plants I can plant that will repellent these critters.
They're neighbors' cats and do nothing to keep their animals under control. I have bare spots in the yard that they love. The spots are under trees so the shade prevents grass from growing. I do have shrubs that are growing. Help! Mary
Anne Clapp: I don't know of plants that are repellent to cats. One method of controlling some of the damage from cat and dog fertilizer is to treat the spots with gypsum to neutralize the excess nitrogen. In areas under trees where growing grass is a problem you might replace the grass with some of the shade tolerant ground covers such as liriope, mondo grass, vinca, ajuga, hosta, partridgeberry etc.
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Question: Ann, Is it too late to plant shrubs (evergreens) now that we have weather hovering in the low 30s and frost has fallen? If I still can plant shrubs, what should I do to assure it has a chance to survive? Also, any suggestions for a particular type(s) of evergreens to plant this time of year. Gracias, Manny
Anne Clapp: Container grown shrubs may be planted in the Zone 7 and higher areas of the Carolinas as long as the ground is not frozen. The planting area should be watered when we do not have rain during the week. Watering is also important when we have a lot of wind that dries out the plant faster than the root system can absorb water. After plants are in the ground mulch them with 3 or 4 inches of pinestraw, bark or mulched leaves to insulate the soil and roots. I have never had much luck winter-planting shrubs that prefer really hot weather – such things as hibiscus, oleander, windmill palm, Indian hawthorne and some viburnums. Most conifers and hollies do well; camellias and azaleas are safe.
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Question: Dear Anne, Can I plant a couple of Rosemary plants right now, successfully? And what variety do you recommend for this area? I like the fuller fatter looking ones. Thanks, Anthony
Anne Clapp: I have the best luck starting Rosemary in my garden in the spring. Our soil can get a bit wet during the winter and if plants don't have a good root system established they can have problems. If you have place with very good drainage and can protect the plants with a temporary protection from the wind – I used the non-woven landscape fabric – the plants should live. The best variety I have tried is Arp but there are several others that will work.
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Question: What is the difference between a thanksgiving cactus and a Christmas cactus? Someone here at work is telling me it is how there leaves are - spiked and nonspiked. Thank you,
Melody
Anne Clapp: Christmas cactus, Thanksgiving cactus and Easter cactus are common names given to plants in the genus Schlumbergera. There are many hybrids of S. truncata, S. russelliana and S. bridgesii that bloom from October to April. Some have more spiked leaves than others and some have blooms of red or pink or orange or yellow or white. They are called Thanksgiving cactus if they happen to bloom in November, Christmas cactus if they bloom in December and Easter cactus if they bloom in March. Bloom time is usually determined by temperature, moisture and hours of light, not the points on the leaves.
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Question: Dear Ann, First off, I am a true FAN of yours! My Mom passed way 3 years ago and I received her 2 christmas cactus. one was white and the other was absolutely spectacular! It's colors range from pink to fuscia to coral to red. I really didn't know how to take care of them until a lady told me to put them outsie in the shade. My husband re-potted them and made 6 pottings. I went to bring them in around the end of October and the bulbs were set. Ann, they have about 250 bulbs on each one. One is fuscia and the other is coral, along with the white ones.
My question is, how can I pollenate them between the white and the pinks? Can I just use a q-tip and put some of the pink pollen with the white one? I have a coral one over a white one, so can I just "jiggle" the coral one on top of the white one? I know my Mom would be so proud to see them now! I would like to make a "NEW" color in Honor of her. Thanks alot for all your HELP!!!!!!!!!!! - Sherry D.
Anne Clapp: Christmas cacti are members of the genus Schlumbergera that are usually propagated from cuttings. Some of the color variations have been mutations of the plant from which the cuttings were made. Because the plants you have may be from different species of plants or may even be sterile hybrids that will not produce seeds it may be difficult for you to cross-pollinate the plants you have. You might want to read one of the books on Christmas Cactus to learn a bit more about their history and botany.
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Question: I have a bed of day lilies and iris with bamboo grass in them. I have dug up the lilies and iris. I have pulled out the bamboo grass since it has died from the cold. Should I replant the lilies and iris with a chance of the roots of the bamboo grass still in the plants or should I just throw away the plants and start over with new ones. - William C.
Anne Clapp: Bamboo grass is an annual and grows from seed each year. Your plants may be replanted in the beds without a problem from the roots of the bamboo grass but you may have problems from the seeds of the plants. Hand-pulling the weeds in the spring and a good layer of mulch will help keep the pest down for next summer. You could also try using a pre-emergent grass killler in the beds next spring.
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Question: Hi Anne, I have two questions for you. My basil has lots of flowers now, and I would like to save the seeds for next year. How can I tell if the seeds mature enough so I can cut the flowers and save them?
My second question is that I have some lemon grass bushes outside but I do not want to dig them up to bring them inside, is there a way for me to save those lemon grasses from the cold winter? Thanks so much for your help, Helen
Anne Clapp: The seeds of basil appear after the flowers drop off the plant and continue to grow. The seeds should start turning from green to brown when they are mature enough to harvest. Lemon grass is a tender perennial that is killed to the ground at the first hard freeze. I have never had any luck overwintering the plant in the ground outside in the Raleigh area. I have heard from some gardeners who say they have gotten their's to come back the next year by cutting the leaves off after first frost, then mounding a mulch over the root system and covering it with a clay pot.
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Question: Hi, My rubber plant got hit quite badly by the cold and is in pretty rough shape, but I was hoping to salvage some of it, as it is about eight years old. It has a strong odor, that is a lot like the smell of pumpkins (after Halloween). Are these fumes dangerous for my grandchildren or pets? Thank you, Sue in Vermont
Anne Clapp: I think you may have what is known as a dead rubber tree plant. The odor is from the decaying plant tissue and should not be dangerous, just unpleasant. Your plant is a tender tropical, ficus elasticus, that will not withstand temperatures below 30F at all. It is a zone 10 plant that will have some damage below 40F. You might cut the plant off just above the ground and see if it comes back but I would think the plant did not survive its night outside.
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Question: Anne, I enjoy your segments on Ch 14. Thank you. A friend's sister sends her plants every spring that are "trailing spinach." Looks like a vine and doesn't climb. She says that the spinch tastes like spinach and it looks like spinach. It is going wild during this cool weather. Do you have a source for the seeds or plants? Thanks a lot. I'll be looking, Kay
Anne Clapp: Trailing spinach is often used as a climbing plant in the garden. It grows very well on a fence or trellis. Look in the seed catalogs for Malabar spinach. It is often listed as an ornamental plant but it is edible, and really quite tasty. Most of the large seed catalogs list it. Try Parks Seeds and Burpee. You do have to start the seeds indoors and transplant the seedlings outside when it gets warm. Soil temperatures need to be above 55 degrees. It takes about two months to get a plant large enough to start picking leaves.
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Question: Every year when I take my potted plants inside they are healthy and beautiful. In a couple of months they look sick and begin to die. I have them in the only window in my house that seems to get sun, however it if filtered through a blind. I keep a gro lite on them for 8 hours a day. I keep them watered. Is there anything else I can do for them to keep them from losing their luscious green? I have heard that you should mist along with watering, how often should I do this. How do I know when they need water to prevent me from overwatering?
Anne Clapp: There are several tricks to keeping plants healthy when you bring them inside for the winter. Start by slowing their growth down a bit by not fertilizing them in September and bring them inside before it gets too cold. Your plants need to be inside before you turn on the heat in your home in the evening. Keep them in good light and keep them watered but don't over-water. Separate the plants so you know which ones need to dry out before you water and those that need to be kept evenly moist. The only way I tell when my plants need more water is to stick my finger down in the soil about an inch. If it feels wet, don't water. Over-watering has killed more houseplants than under-watering. Most plants do not need misting if your home is comfortable to you. Some tropical plants may like an occasional misting. All plants would like to be washed off once in a while. Putting them in the kitchen sink and spraying them to rinse the dust off the leaves will work; so will putting them in the shower for a few minutes. Your plants will not be growing as vigorously inside so they do not need to be fertilized as frequently as they did when they were outside.
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Question: Dear Anne, Hi! I live in Camden South Carolina and I have a Banana plant given to me by a neighbor that's nearly six feet tall. He dug it up and told me to wrap it in paper and keep it in my basement until the spring and replant it. Do you have any additional care instructions that may be usefull for my Banana tree? What is the ideal temperature for storing my tree? Do they enjoy sun or shade or both? Do they thrive in a particular type of soil? How often do I water my tree in the growing season? Do I need to water the plant over the winter months and most importantly, what time of the year is best to replant my tree? Please help!
Anne Clapp: Some bananas are actually hardy in your area and the Raleigh area as well. They may not set fruit because of the short growing season and the top may be killed to the ground, but the roots of several banana plants are winter hardy. If you are wrapping it to store over the winter put it in an area that does not get below freezing and don't water it. They need full sun to grow well and prefer a rich, loamy soil. Do not plant the banana outside until all chance of frost is over. The soil temperature should be over 50F. Keep it watered once it is in the ground and fertilize it every other week.
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Question: Anne, I have four beautiful christmas cactus that I manage to bring into flower every year and have even managed this year to be successful with cuttings. But my problem is when they get any size at all some parts of the cactus get sort of a creased look and eventually fall completly off. Any idea what I could be doing wrong - I cannot seem to find the answer? - hope you have some ideas. Thank you, Christobel
Anne Clapp: I think the problem is lack of moisture during the summer. Christmas cactus is a succulent, not a dry soil cactus. They need rich soil, light shade and should not dry out completely between waterings. The larger, older cactus may need more frequent repotting, or more frequent watering.
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Question: Can you advise on whether English Ivy needs to be cut back over the winter to allow fresh growth in the spring or must one simply cut back the runners to control its growth. It seems that there is a lot of old growth, collection of leves etc and would this cause eventual rotting ? If so how close does one crop the English Ivy without killing it. Thanks, Henry
Anne Clapp: I don't think you can kill English Ivy by cutting it back. I've seen gardeners use a string weed trimmer without damaging the plant. To control the growth the plant needs to be cut back more than once a year. I cut my ornamental ivy back in the early spring just as it starts putting on new growth and keep it cutback when it exceeds the space I want it to cover. That means that some years it gets cut back in April, June, August and October.
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Question: Hi Anne, I'm trying to take a cutting from my rubber plant. All was going well until my daughter accidentally fell against it snapping the branch off iv kept it wrapped in moss and clingfilm, if i potted it now would it grow roots because it hasn't started to grow any yet.
Anne Clapp: It is worth a try. It may not work, but you haven't lost anything. Keep it well watered and cover the entire plant with a plastic bag.
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Question: I have a group of trees that had an enormous amount of shoots coming forth and the other day I found all of the young trees (3-5yrs old) had all of the current years vertical limbs cut off? The odd thing to me is that each of the eaten limbs were cut off as if they were done with a doctors scapula, perfectially systematical, each resembled an ice cream cone, i.e pointed top was left on the main tree. The diameter of the limbs were from 1/4 to 3/8"s around. The top half of the limbs naturally fell to the ground. I have pursued them at night and day with NO results for any identification. Could you help me identify the culprit and possibly a solution, tks! Jim D.
Anne Clapp: Is it possible that you have beavers or muskrats in the neighborhood? The damage you describe sounds like the damage that rodents make when they chew off limbs or cut down a tree.
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Question: My lawn and mulch areas are covered with little mounds of very small, round, soft dirt balls. It almost looks like something has dug down into the ground, but I can't locate anything in the mounds. I can step on them and it is just like flattening a little pile of dirt. The next day, there are just more of them. It doesn't seem to hurt anything, but is unsightly. Are you familiar with something like this and if so, what can I do about it? Thanks
Anne Clapp: You probably have an earthworm active in the ground. It is common this time of year. Nothing to be worried about.
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Question: We have several cactus plants. We have heard that they have to be dry before they will bloom. We also heard that you need to put them in a dark place for 2 weeks. Could you please tell me when to stop watering them and when to place them in the dark and when should they start blooming. Thanks for your help, Connie
Anne Clapp: There should be a segment running currently on News-14 about getting a Christmas cactus to bloom. It needs to be kept cool and dry until it sets buds—then water it. The plant needs daylight during this entire period.
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Question: Another question about the schefflera, it seems to have a sticky substance on the leaves. What is this and would cutting it back help? - Maria
Anne Clapp: The sticky substance is the honeydew secretion from an insect such as an aphid or whitefly. You can wipe it off with a soapy rag without harming the plant. Check the plant for signs of insects and get rid of them as well.
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Question: Anne, Gardenia is in a large pot outdoors – Now some leaves are turning yellow – Can I prevent this if so how can I do this? Lantana is in the soil outside. Will it survive the winter? How does one care for the Gardenia and Lantana over the winter? Thank you very much for your time, Jawahar
Anne Clapp: Many gardenias are winter hardy in the ground in the Raleigh area. The lantana Mrs. Huff is hardy in the winter as long as you do not prune it until the spring after it starts to put on new growth. There are several lantanas on the market now that will survive our winters in the ground. The yellowing of the leaves on your gardenia is the natural loss of the older leaves on the plant. It is not unusual to see at least a third of the leaves turn yellow and drop off the plant in the fall.
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Question: Hello: We live in Toronto and the weather is starting to get cold. We brought in 2 healthy hibiscus plants and the leaves immediately started turning yellow and dropping off. What causes this and what can we do? Thank you. Cliff and Bonnie
Anne Clapp: Hibiscus and many other houseplants react to the change in temperature and humidity when they are brought in the house for the winter. The usual symptom is for the leaves of the plant to drop off just as our deciduous plants do as they go into winter dormancy. Many gardeners have found you can reduce the amount of yellowing and leaf drop on hibiscus by bringing the plants in at least two weeks before the heat is turned on in the house.
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Question: What do I need to be doing in hopes of having blooms by Christmas? I brought the plants inside September 1 and decreased watering. Also, what is the difference between Thanksgiving and Christmas cactus? Thanks.
Anne Clapp: We have done a segment on getting Christmas Cactus to bloom that should air this week or next.Don't fertilize the plants until they start putting on new leaves. The trick is cool nights down to 45 degrees or so and withholding water until the plants set buds. If the cool temperatures arrive early you have a Thanksgiving cactus; if the cool nights come a bit later you have a Christmas cactus; if it blooms in the spring it is an Easter cactus. The plant is a hybrid of Schlumbergia truncate and S. russelliana and there are many cultivars on the market.
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Question: Hi Anne, I have three leyland cyprus trees ranging in height from 12 feet to 15 feet, very close to my house. I am thinking of moving them to a different location on the lot. Is it possible or will the trees die after the move? Any suggestions for the move will be appreicated. Thanks for your time, Pammi
Anne Clapp: A Leyland cypress the size of yours needs a professional with a tree spade for a successful move. The plant will have a very large rootball and the combination of the size of the top growth and the weight of the rootball make such a move very difficult for a homeowner unless you have a front-end loader or similar equipment to move the plant. As quickly as Leylands grow and as inexpensive as they are you are probably better off planting new trees instead of moving the ones you have.
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Question: A couple of days ago you had a item called a deer scarier. It was a bamboo looking bowl and stick maybe it had something to do with water? I wanted to know more about it? Thank you, Beth B.
Anne Clapp: The item is a deer frightener. It was developed in Japan where most are handmade by the gardener. It is a tube of bamboo that fills with water, then empties suddenly causing the back end of the bamboo tube to hit on a rock making a noise to frighten or startle deer. The one at the fair was from The Garden Hut in Fuquay Varina. Plans for making them are in many of the books on Japanese landscaping.
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Question: Anne, I rescued what I think might be an orchid. I think it was pot bound, as what seemed to be the roots were overflowing the pot. When I took it out of the smaller pot, there was a cork like substance around those roots with a light, sort of fuzzy root protruding out of the bottom of the cork. How should I replant this? I have looked on some sites, but it is very confusing. I know orchids are tempermental, but how is the best way to care for it. do you leave the cork? can you use potting soil? There are two bulbs on it at present. Thanks.
Anne Clapp: Orchids are often mounted on cork or bark slabs instead of being put in pots. How you repot it depends on the type orchid it is. Most people now pot orchids in a special bark mix or an expanded clay material that does not decay. The roots need a lot of air so orchids are not planted in a peat based potting soil. Check with some local nurseries about potting instructions. Many of them do have classes on potting orchids. Members of the local orchid society also help people learn to repot and care for orchids.
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Question: I have a young Eucalyptus tree however I cannot get it to grow. Parts of it dies out and I clip the dead areas away. I have it planted in our yard. When I asume it is dying out it suddenly has bluish green leaves appearing from another shoot. What can I use or tips you can give me? Thank you. I really enjoy your tips. - Dee
Anne Clapp: Eucalyptus can be temperamental to grow. It does not like really acid soil so adding lime to the area might help. It also needs very good drainage so make sure it is not getting too wet. It needs to be in a protected area where it does not get cold winter winds.
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Question: Hi Anne, We planted 21 wax leaf ligustrums in our back yard to have a privacy fence. We live in Houston, Texas. However they are dying on us. The branches turn brown and die without dropping any of the leafs. I have taken samples to different nurseries and they all have told me that it is not a plague (no evidence of disease). Some have told me too much water other no enough water. It is urgent since the plants die fast. HELP!!
Anne Clapp: Ligustrum does like to grow in acid soil so the pH of your soil might be a problem. The also do not like to have wet roots so the soil water table may be too high in your area and your plants are drowning from too much water. I would also check with your Texas cooperative extension service; one of their master gardeners might be able to diagnose the problem for you.
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Question: What type of shrubbery do you plant for a wet area near or close to the front area of the house?
Anne Clapp: There are several evergreen shrubs that will grow well in wet soil and would work near the front of a house. Leucothoe, Illicium (flowering anise), wax myrtle, and Devilwood (Osmanthus americana) are possibilities. Some chamaecyparis are also tolerant of wet feet. Chamaecyparis thyoides, the tree know as Atlantic white cedar will tolerate damp conditions and some of the smaller plants will as well. Trees such as dahoon holly, loblolly bay and sweet bay magnolia might work if you want a taller plant. There are also some perennial plants such as cannas, Japanese iris, and the yellow flag iris that also grow with wet feet if you want to mix some colorful plants in the area.
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Question: Do you know of any way to keep a gingko tree from bearing fruit? I know it's too late for this year but we are hopeful for next year. Thank you.
Anne Clapp: No! That's the reason we recommend that people buy a male gingko tree. The fruit does stink!
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Question: Hi Anne, I would like to put grass seed on my lawn now. Does the lawn mowing preventing them from germinating? Also, I would like to cut the top of my evergreen to stop them from growing taller. Do they actually stop growing? Do they function normally when they stop growing? Thanks for your help, Helen
Anne Clapp: Newly seeded grass should not be mowed until it has a good root system developed. You risk pulling the new seedlings out of the ground so wait until the new grass is at least four inches tall before you mow it. As for cutting the top out of evergreens, topping a tree will permanently change the shape of the plant as it will try to develop a new central leader. This causes a curved branch at the top of the plant that weakens the plant and produces a plant that does not have a very attractive shape. Some evergreens are natural dwarfs that will grow very slowly and lightly trimming the new growth on the plant will keep them smaller. You might try shearing about one inch of growth off the plant each year to see if that will keep it the size you prefer.
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Question: Anne, Three years ago I built planters around my oak trees and put in hostas and they are doing very well, but the soil in the planters seems to shift down about an inch or so each year. If I add new soil this Fall (@ 4 inches) will the hostas find their way up or do I need to dig them up, add soil, and then replant? IF so, should I do that now or in the Spring? Thanks for your help. Barbara
Anne Clapp: If you add four inches you should remove the plants or at least lift the crowns of the plants with a spading fork before you add more topsoil. If you add only two inches the hosta could be left in place. You may want to add organic material on a yearly basis in the future. Adding topsoil and composted manure as a fertilizer in the spring adds soil depth and nutrients for the plants at the same time.
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Question: Hi Anne, I have two questions for you. I have a huge pencil cactus thats probably about 15 feet tall and just as big around. I need to bring it in for winter and I have a place that will suit it well for the heighth but not for the circumference of it. Can I trim it down some or do I just need to put it in the ground. We live in Louisiana and I have read it can take temps. as low as 25 degrees. But if I need to transplant to the ground what time of the year do I do this. My other question is about a huge wisteria plant that I have. Of course wisterias grow crazy and this one has done that very well. The only problem is that it never blooms. What could be the problem? I would appreciate any advice on these two subjects very much. Thank You, Jana M.
Anne Clapp: There are three major reasons for wisteria not blooming: not enough light, too much nitrogen fertilizer and pruning the blooms off before they develop. I would make sure it gets a lot of light, prune it back after all the wisteria in town have bloomed next year and make sure it is in full sun. I am not sure which cactus you might have but it may not do well in the moist soil of Louisiana during the winter even if the temperature is warm enough. Cacti are happiest in warm, dry climates so you are probably better off keeping it in a pot on a sun porch or other heated space.
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Question: Hi Anne, I recently dug up my peonies in an attempt to move them because they did not look happy. They were quite yellow and had black tips on the leaves. When I dug them up, I noticed what looked like small galls on the smaller
feeder roots. I can only assume this is root rot nematodes. Is there anything that can be done for these peonies or should I throw them out? Thanks! Courtney R.
Anne Clapp: Root knot nematodes do infect peonies grown in sandy soil. You can dig the plants, remove all the infected roots and replant the healthy ones. Older books say that the dormant roots of peonies can be treated by submerging them in 120 degree water for 30 minutes. You will have to replant in an area that does not contain nematodes and that may be a problem in you yard.
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Question: Will lavendar lantana survive winter in the Beaufort County area (Washington, NC)? I don't think it is hardy enough for Wake Co. I've heard you say "Miss Huff" is hardy for the Raleigh area, but many others are not. I have a lavendar lantana that I want to give to my sister in Wash., NC. JTL
Anne Clapp: Most lantana camara cultivars are not hardy in the ground in the Washington, NC area either. Miss Huff and a couple of pale yellow varieties will over-winter. The rosy lilac colored Lantana montevidensis is a low sprawling plant that will be hardy in zone 8. You really have nothing to loose by trying to grow it outside.
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Question: Hello: I recently purchased a heavenly bamboo nandina but I read that they can be very invasive and hurt other plants around it. Is this true, also will it bear fruit if it is planted alone or do I need to plant more than one? Thanks.
Anne Clapp: Nandina will grow and produce berries even if only one is planted. They do seed in freely so you have to be diligent weeding the seedlings out in the spring. I enjoy the plant in the landscape and cut the berries off after Christmas so they don't get spread by the birds.
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Question: Hello Anne, I have a camelia that has a white film on the leaves, looks like some sort of mold. How can I treat it? Thanks, Sharon
Anne Clapp: A white film on the back of camellia leaves is most likely to be an infestation of an insect known as camellia or tea scale. The insect may be killed using the insecticide Cygon which is a systemic insecticide that will help kill the insect inside the waxy protective coating. Another product that works well is horticultural oil that smothers the insect. When using the oil spray make sure you spray the back of the leaves. Either treatment leaves the covering in place on the leaves. It will darken and be less obtrusive but the only way to remove it is to wash the leaves of the plant – and with over 200 camellias in my yard I don't have the time.
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Question: I have reddish pink mushrooms growing in my front yard. What kind are they?
Anne Clapp: There are lots of varieties of reddish colored fungi in lawns in this area. I suggest you find a reference book at the library to see if you can find a mushroom similar to the one you have in your yard.
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Question: I have four large hibiscus plants. If i plant them outside will they live during the winter?
Anne Clapp: It depends on what hibiscus you have. The shiny leafed Chinese hibiscus is not hardy in this area. The Rose of Sharon, the large flowered “Lord Baltimore” types, Confederate rose types, the large red coccineus and swamp mallow are hardy. Most will die back to the ground in winter but will come back in the spring. The Rose of Sharon will loose its leaves but the woody stems are hardy.
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Question: I have a Confederate Rose that I started from a cutting from a friend's plant. Mine is in a large pot and is now about 5 ft. tall. I'm wondering if I can leave it outside in the pot for the winter or should I put it in the ground and if so, when? I plan to give the plant to my daughter who lives in Carolina Beach. Will it do o.k. in that area? The plant is too big to transport in my car from Raleigh to the beach now. Can I leave it in the pot and wait until late fall after it blooms and it's time to cut it back and then cut it and move it to the beach and plant in the ground in November? JL
Anne Clapp: Your Confederate Rose hibiscus would freeze if left out in a pot in the Raleigh area. They will live in the ground in this area. Your plan to allow the plant to bloom, then cut it back and transport it to Carolina Beach is the best option. The plant is hardy in the ground in our coastal regions.
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Question: Dear Anne, How can I kill dandelions and other weeds growing in my bed of perwinkle without killing the perwinkle? Thanks.
Anne Clapp: Hand pulling existing weeds and using a pre-emergent weedkiller is the safest way to take care of broadleaf weeds in periwinkle. Spotkilling the weeds with an herbicide spray either by painting the weeds with the diluted spray or using a funnel of some sort that will direct the spray to the weed and protect the groundcover will work but I found it more tedious than handpulling weeds. You can make a funnel by cutting the bottom out of a plastic milk bottle or bleach bottle; place the large opening over the weed and pull the vinca or periwinkle out of the area to be sprayed, spray through the small neck of the bottle so weedkiller coats the weed. Be careful moving the funnel from one plant to another because the drip could harm the periwinkle. It is usually easier to kill weeds during the fall and winter when the periwinkle is not actively growing.
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Question: Hi Anne, I recently planted several Lamb's Ear plants in my garden and, to my dismay, have noticed multiple holes appearing in the leaves throughout the plants. I know something is eating them, but what? I have never seen any slugs/snails on the leaves, or their tell-tale trails, nor have I seen any other bugs. What insect loves Lamb's Ear and how do I kill it!?! Thanks, Laura
Anne Clapp: There are several beetles that work in the night to eat holes in the leaves of plants. About the only way you will see the varmints is to go out at night with a flashlight to see them do their work. Powdered Sevin will work as an insecticide to get rid of them. Spray late in the afternoon for best results.
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Question: Hello Anne, I have a camelia that has a white film on the leaves, looks like some sort of mold. How can I treat it? Thanks, Sharon
Anne Clapp: A white film on the back of camellia leaves is most likely to be an infestation of an insect known as camellia or tea scale. The insect may be killed using the insecticide Cygon which is a systemic insecticide that will help kill the insect inside the waxy protective coating. Another product that works well is horticultural oil that smothers the insect. When using the oil spray make sure you spray the back of the leaves. Either treatment leaves the covering in place on the leaves. It will darken and be less obtrusive but the only way to remove it is to wash the leaves of the plant – and with over 200 camellias in my yard I don't have the time.
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Question: Dear Anne, How can I kill dandelions and other weeds growing in my bed of periwinkle without killing the periwinkle? Thanks, James B.
Anne Clapp: Hand pulling existing weeds and using a pre-emergent weedkiller is the safest way to take care of broadleaf weeds in periwinkle. Spotkilling the weeds with an herbicide spray either by painting the weeds with the diluted spray or using a funnel of some sort that will direct the spray to the weed and protect the groundcover will work but I found it more tedious than handpulling weeds. You can make a funnel by cutting the bottom out of a plastic milk bottle or bleach bottle; place the large opening over the weed and pull the vinca or periwinkle out of the area to be sprayed, spray through the small neck of the bottle so weedkiller coats the weed. Be careful moving the funnel from one plant to another because the drip could harm the periwinkle. It is usually easier to kill weeds during the fall and winter when the periwinkle is not actively growing.
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Question: Hi - what do you recommend for killing chickweed in centipede grass? I'm currently using Ferti-lome Weed-Out Lawn Weed Killer without much success. Thanks, JYB, Southern Pines
Anne Clapp: The MCPP component in broadleaf weed killers is effective in getting rid of chickweed in centipede grass. The instructions usually recommend using the product at half strength on centipede lawns. In order to kill the chickweed that usually means you treat the lawn then wait 10 days and treat it again to get rid of the weeds without harming the grass.
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Question: It is Sept. 13, 2004 and I have three red crepe myrtle trees and have kept the blooms clipped and these trees on now on their third blooming period.... Can I help promote those late blooms by inserting fert. sticks/stakes in the ground this time of year or is there a chance of any harm to the tree. These stakes are fert. for flowering trees and shrubs? I always use them in the spring but wondered if there would be a benefit of using them on these trees now. I live in Broken Arrow, Okla which is near Tulsa and about 75 miles south of the Kansas line. Regards, Linda G.
Anne Clapp: Crepe Myrtle trees are not as fond of fertilizer as some other flowering trees and shrubs. By giving the plant a little fertilizer in the spring you encourage new growth that produces blooms for the year. If Crepe Myrtles get too much nitrogen the do not bloom as well so I would not fertilize any more than a light feeding in the spring.
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Question: I have a schefflera that doesn't seem to be doing very well. I'm growing it indoors but recently moved it outside (last week). I'd like to cut it back but don't know if its too late in the growing season to do that. Plus, I have tiny brown spots on the undersides of the leaves? Is it diseased? If I cut it back, should I change the soil too? I enjoy your show and your website....Maria
Anne Clapp: I think your tiny brown spots are scale insects, a common problem on schefflera. They would cause the general decline I health of the plant. If you have patience you can wash all the leaves of the plants and remove the little insects that cling to the leaves and stems. I have found that the Bayer insecticide that is labeled for killing scale insects will work on houseplants but you do have to spray outside. As long as you are going to keep the plant inside you could cut it back in the fall before you bring it in the house. I would also repot it to help control the insects which could be in the soil as well.
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Question: Hi Anne, We have wild mushrooms growing in our backyard. They seem to be multiplying extensively. We dig them out and seem to get triple the amount grow back. We live just west of Winston-Salem, North Carolina. Is there some sort of spray or powder to put on them to kill the root system. Thank you, Mroser
Anne Clapp: Wild mushrooms are a fungus so there are some fungicides that will kill the spores in the ground. The two that I have heard are used in the area are Heritage and Prostar. You may want to find a licensed pesticide operator to apply them for you.
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Question: I have a nice lawn of Bermuda grass. But I have noticed patches of short clover growing. How can I get rid of it without making ugly brown areas?
Anne Clapp: The Bermuda grass will soon be going dormant and turning brown. The clover will continue as a green plant after the Bermuda goes dormant so you can wait until the grass starts its color change to take the weedkiller to the clover.
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Question: Hi, I have a question: I have three beautiful plants of Lantanas in vases and I would like to move them inside, when the weather gets too cold. However, I have a problem: the plants are infested with white flies... I tried spraying them several times with insecticides that are supposed to destroy them, but they are still infesting my plants. I don't want to bring them inside with other flowers and infest those with the flies and if I leave the Lantanas in the garden, the winter will kill them (I live in southern Maine). How can I get rid of the flies and bring clean plants in the house? Thanking you for your help, and waiting for your answer. Mariacristina
Anne Clapp: White flies can be a real pest and they multiply so quickly that it is difficult to control them completely. Sometimes washing a plant with insecticidal soap making sure you get the bottom of the leaves and the areas where the stem connects to the leaves will get the insect under control. Another method is to use several of the yellow sticky traps in a plastic bag with the potted lantana to keep the plant isolated from other plants that might be harboring the insect. You also might try taking cuttings of the plants. Clean the cuttings carefully for flies and their eggs and then stick the cuttings in a peat-sand mixture and cover them with a plastic bag to maintain a high humidity level until the cuttings root. It is easier to clean insects off small cuttings of a plant than to clean an entire plant.
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Question: Anne, I have 3 large and 2 small hibiscus plants that are currently in large pots. I want to bring them in for the winter and put them in my sunroom. What do I need to do to get then ready to bring inside? What temperature does the sunroom need to maintain to keep then healthy through the winter months? Thanks, Allyson
Anne Clapp: I would prune the plants back to a reasonable size to keep in the house and treat them for insects so you don't bring any insects into the house with the plants. As long as the temperature in the sunroom does not go below 45 degrees they should remain healthy.
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Question: Hello, I recently saw on your show, you using a hand/foot core aerator (you step on it and it pulls 2 plugs out)--where can I find that tool in the RTP area (I live in Apex and havent had any luck finding one). Thanks, Dan
Anne Clapp: I just saw one at the Lowes on Glenwood Avenue in Raleigh. Mine is several years old and I got it from Gardener's Supply mail order catalog.
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Question: Good morning Anne, I viewed your segment, "Renovating A Fescue Lawn, " and saw that you had a step-on aerator. This is what I have been needing for sometime for my smaller grass areas. I am currently using a pitch fork which does not work all that well. Where can something like this be purchased? I really enjoy you gardening segments on TV14.
Regards, Jack M.
Anne Clapp: I recently saw a step-on aerator at the Lowe's in Raleigh. It was a dark green and made of a heavy weight metal that looked like it would be quite durable.
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Question: Hi Anne, I am growing chilli peppers in pots on my balcony. They get around 5-6 hours of direct sunlight and diffused light otherwise. Two of my plants are having a weird problem. The leaves are getting curly and kind of folding .... appears little sickly (not yellow though) but surprising produces chillies albeit less frequently than others. I am wondering if they need some particular mineral or so. Thanks a lot for your advice and suggestions. Regards, Nilanjan
Anne Clapp: The symptoms you describe for your chilli pepper plants could be insect or disease problems. You could try using insecticidal soap to see if the new growth on the plants improves. We are nearing the end of the pepper season so I do not think you would have time to try any other remedies this year.
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Question: Hi, I was hoping you would fill me in on what I missed on one of your segments. I think I heard that there is a plant that's helpful for keeping gnats and mosquitos away. I think you were putting a pot on a doorstep at the very end of the segment. Will you please give me the information that I missed? I would be thrilled if there is such a plant that could help.
Anne Clapp: We were talking about the group of carnivorous plants that grow wild in eastern North Carolina. The pitcher plant and the venus fly trap were the two I worked with. They are bog plants and may be grown in containers. They do attract insects and eat them but I don't think four or five plants in a pot would put a dent in the total number of insects that fly around our yards during the summer.
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Question: We planted yellow squash this year. We have blooms but no squash. What have we done wrong? A farmer told us that the seven dust we put on it kept the bees from pollinating them? Thanks, Liz E.
Anne Clapp: Sevin dust does kill the pollinating insects just as it does the other insects so that could be the problem with your plants. It is also possible that you have not had both male and female blooms on your plants at the same time. If you look at the back of the blooms where they are attached to the vine you will see a small squash shaped bump at the bottom of female blooms. The male blooms attach straight to the vines without that little round segment.
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Question: Hi Anne, My cats have damaged my bradford pear tree. What can I do to repair it and keep the cats away. Thank You, Audra P. from Cochran, GA.
Anne Clapp: I will presume they have scratched the bark which is the only way I can think of that cats could damage a Bradford pear. Mother Nature usually takes care of that kind of damage but you will want to keep an eye out for any insect problems. Spraying with insecticidal soap may be all that is necessary. To keep cats off the tree you may want to make a cylinder of chicken wire around the trunk. Something five inches or so larger than the diameter of the trunk should give you something the cats can't climb.
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Question: Hi Anne! Some of my oak trees have oak mites. This is causing the leaves to discolor and fall off prematurely. These are very large trees so spraying them with a pesticide is not an option. What can I do to eliminate this problem?
Anne Clapp: I know about aphids, oak kermes scale, oak leafminers, oak lecanium, oak loopers, oak webworms and orangestriped oakworms but I do not know about oak mites. In general the recommendation is to clean up all the leaves as they fall and remove all debris from around the tree in the fall. Most insects that damage the leaves of deciduous trees in the late summer or early fall do not do permanent damage to the tree because the leaves have done most of their work producing food for the tree for the year. You may want to contact the cooperative extension service to see if they have other recommendations.
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Question: Hi Anne, I have a problem with my pineapple plant. The leaf tips are turning brown and drying up. Yet there's new growth coming from the center of the plant, so I'm hoping that the plant isn't dying. Would you have any suggestions regarding what the problem might be and any possible solutions? I would also appreciate any advice on the proper care of this plant. Thanks from Cindy in Newfoundland.
Anne Clapp: Brown leaf tips often mean problems with soil moisture. It could be allowing new growth to dry out or it could be chemicals such as fluorine in the water supply. Even in the pineapple fields in Hawaii the plants get brown tipped leaves but the plants thrive and bear good fruit. You could try using rain water for watering the plant. Make sure it has lots of light and keep it watered but don't allow the plant to stand in water.
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Question: There is a running flower in bloom now. The color of bloom is red. I have seen it on someone mail box post. What is the name of this flower?
Anne Clapp: If the vine has very fine leaves and the flower is small but a brilliant scarlet red it may be Ipomoea coccinea, popularly known as cardinal vine. It is a member of the morning glory family and is an annual that reseeds readily.
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Question: I recently moved to NC from NH, and I found something very peculiar in my yard when I first mowed the lawn. It's a large pile of a strange grey substance that looks like a small boulder but is the consistency of soft mud -- and it is growing. At the very least, the area I flattened and smoothed over with my foot is now all bubbly and rocklike in appearance again. Do you have any idea what this strange thing/matter is? Thank you.
Anne Clapp: Welcome to North Carolina and a new world of gardening problems. The mass you are describing is a fungus that grows in many of our lawns during the summer. I use a small hoe to remove the growth from the soil. When it first comes up you can dig it out and discard it in the trash. Eventually the spores in the ground that produce them are exhausted and after a few years the problem will disappear. They don't seem to cause any harm other than to be unattractive.
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Question: Dear Anne, What are the best vegetables to plant this time of year in a space that doesn't get much (if any) sunlight outdoors? Thank you, Meg
Anne Clapp: Spinach, lettuce, kale and chard are doing nicely in a shady area outside for me. At least you can have a fresh salad every once in a while.
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Question: Hi, I planted cana lillies 2 years ago and they have never bloomed. They grow beautiful tall green foliage, but have never bloomed. Do you know why?
Anne Clapp: The usual reason calla lilies don't bloom is lack of sun. They do like high light levels but do not like the heat of afternoon sun. The do not need a lot of fertilizer and too much nitrogen will make them produce lots of leaves.
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Question: Hi, I'm looking for some indoor plants (small or large) that will help me with my allergies. |