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Ask Anne Clapp - Archives Page 23
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Question: Anne, I have 2 apple trees, 1 red and 1 yellow. How do I prune these trees? They are about 12 feet tall and a lot of branchers going all directions Thank you, Bill S.
Anne Clapp: The best time to prune apple trees is in late January or February when they are completely dormant. They are pruned using a spur type pruning cut. The Cooperative Extension Service has a publication with diagrams that will show you how to prune correctly. You can contact your county extension agent for information on getting the information.
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Question: Does a gardenia have to have another one to cross pollenate with? Any help on care of gardenias would really be appreciated. Thank you, Jenny T.
Anne Clapp: Gardenias bloom when they have sun, adequate water and are not pruned before they bloom in the spring. They need an application of fertilizer after danger of the last frost as the new growth starts in the spring. The only time a plant needs another pollinator is when you are trying to produce a fruit or nut.
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Question: Can you transplant Loropetalum ..Mine have the deep pink spider blooms and they are about 6 to 7 years old. I have them planted along the walkway to my front porch but they have about overpowered my porch and front entrance view. They are so beautiful I want to move them ....They will be so much prettier I think if they are not in hedge form along the walk. If they can be moved could you tell me when and how. Thanking you in advance. Lynn T.
Anne Clapp: The best time to move them is when they are dormant in the late fall or winter. You can prune them back drastically now to make them easier to move. You can also root prune the plants right now to force them to make small feeder roots that will provide a smaller rootball to move in the fall. Root pruning is nothing more than taking a sharp spade and cutting the roots of the plants in the ground at a distance from the tree trunk that will provide a root system for the plant.
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Question: Hello Anne, I live in Cary and I need your advice on what perennial plants or flowers to plant on the north side of the house. This area is next to the house and deck and it is mostly shady and humid. Luis
Anne Clapp: The popular plants for the shade in our area right now are: Coral Bells (Heuchera sanguinea), Foam flowers (Tiarella cordifolia) and a cross between the two called Heucherella. The winter and early blooming Hellebores are also popular. Hostas come in all shades of green and many of the ones with white flowers are fragrant when they bloom in August. Ferns, toadlily, woodland phlox for early spring bloom and Pulmonaria are good perennials. There are also camellias and azaleas that bloom well in shady gardens.
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Question: Anne, Are there any shrubs that will grow in shade and sun? I had a rose garden that has now been shaded out by my neighbors redtip hedge. They have never been pruned and now are small trees. I need something to plant in the place of roses, but fear putting in a shade lover, for fear that the redtips may be gone one day. That is why I need to plant something that will survive in shade, but will also survive in sun should the redtips come down one day. Would like something that blooms (but not necessary), that will grow 6 to 8 ft tall. Thank you!
Anne Clapp: The plants that grow in both shade and sun are usually better in one condition or the other. The ones you might try are Glossy Abelia (the Chinese Abelia is quite attractive and a butterfly attractor), Snowball Viburnum, Beautyberry (callicarpa), Anise, Gardenia, Loropetalum and Osmanthus fragrans do well in Piedmont North Carolina.
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Question: I have a hydrangea that has stopped blooming. Its in a sunny location, and it bloomed the first year we moved to this house. But every year thereafter, only some very small blooms. I love them and want to plant more but afraid the same thing will happen. I must be doing something wrong. My neighbor told me to not cut it back and see what happens. Right now it has long brown stems and looks dead. Any suggestions?
Anne Clapp: There are usually two reasons for lack of blooms on hydrangeas. As your friend suggested it may have been pruned incorrectly. The best time to prune a hydrangea is just after it finishes blooming. The other reason in this part of the world is a late freeze that occurs after the plant has started putting out its first leaves. You can tell if the long brown stems are dead by lightly scratching one of the stems to see if there is green wood just under the brown skin.
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Question: How can I trim back a Jane Magnolia? It's taking over my small back yard, and I hate to cut it down completely. Can I cut it back and have it survive or get more bushy? It is now about 15' tall, and by what I'm reading is probably mature. Darlene R.
Anne Clapp: Jane magnolias usually don't get much larger than 15 feet but they will get as tall as 20 feet on occasion. The plant can be pruned back after it blooms in the spring. Tip prune the main branches to bring it back to the size you want – but remember you will have to prune the plant every year to keep it at the size you want.
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Question: Hi Anne, I planted a wisteria bush last year in the spring, it struggled all year, the leaves were yellow and some dried up and fell off. The bush never looked healthy. It gets plenty of sun, I have a sprinkler system and all the other bushes and flower do well at the same location. Is there something I can do? Thanks, Russ
Anne Clapp: The plant seems to have something wrong with its root system to have the symptoms you describe. It could have poor drainage and the water from the irrigation system stands around the root ball of the plant. The plant could have been rootbound in the container and the roots were not pulled out enough to have good contact with the soil when it was planted ( and it may not have been watered well enough when it was planted to water the roots in well.) The plant also could have been planted too dee[ply in the ground. The top of the rootball needs to be about 1 inch above the surrounding hole. It may be easier to dig the plant up and replant it.
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Question: Thank you for taking my question. I live in Northern New Jersey, and last fall planted 11 Princess Holly Trees. We had plenty of water in late fall, but I was noticing that as the winter ended the leaves were severely winter burned and I hope I am not going to lose the trees. They were 25 gallon potted holly standing over 8 foot, is there anything I should do for them to help? They were bright green, got berries, and seemed to be doing well until we went from 40-50 degree weather to the snow and 2 weeks of 20 degree and below stretch. Now it's 40 to 60 degrees and I want to help them. Please respond before they die? Thank you, Craig
Anne Clapp: At this point the only thing you can do is make sure the plants are watered each week if you do not have rain. You may want to use a soaker hose in the planting area to provide a deep moisture for the roots. It is always wise to use an “anti-transpirant” spray such as “Wilt-Pruf” on newly planted evergreens to help them get through the first winter. The spray has a wax that provides a coating to seal moisture in the plant leaves.
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Question: I have several Otto Luyken beside my home. Many are showing areas on the leaves where it appears that some sort of insect has been eating the leaves. Or it could be a disease causing the problem. Can you advise me on the cause, treatment, etc. please? Don C., Aiken, SC
Anne Clapp: The beetles and weevils have been eating on a lot of plants including laurels, this winter. At this point the damage has been done and the damaged leaves will remain on the plants until their usual spring or fall leaf drop. There are systemic insecticides that reduce the damage to plants but there will still be some eaten spaces on leaves. The insects do their work at night so you may be able to control them by spraying with liquid Sevin late in the afternoon or early evening.
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Question: I want to move my weeping youpon holly and camelia to another part of the yard. Do these bushes have a wide or deep root system? What is the best time to do this? Thanks, Dianne from Myrtle Beach, SC
Anne Clapp: The Camellia has a wide, shallow root system with a lot of small feeder roots. The Youpon has a deeper root system with some larger roots. Both can be moved when they are small plants but plants taller than 6 feet will be difficult to move. The best time to move both plants is in the fall when they are dormant. In the Myrtle Beach area they can be moved from October to February.
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Question: I have 4 hibiscus trees that I brought into my porch when the weather in NJ got cold. They now have a lot of aphids on them. I took them into the shower and washed off the leaves and have used insecticidal spray as well as a deterrent and water spray that I mixed myself, over the past month, however, they are still covered with aphids. Is there anything I can use like traps or a systemic thing to help this problem? Or just wait for spring, and put them outside (no problems with aphids in the summer.) Should I just give up on trying to keep them over the winter? They flower inside and are pretty, but I plan to put them outside when the weather warms up in May. I over wintered them in the basement the last 2 years and they have survived with a grow light and really did well outside during the summers. In my porch they are growing, not just surviving as they did in the basement. The porch is new! Thanks.
Anne Clapp: Next year before you bring the hibiscus inside you may want to spray them with a dormant oil spray. It smothers the aphid eggs that hatch during the winter. As a method for taking care of the current crop try using one of the yellow sticky traps that organic gardeners use in greenhouses. If you can't find one in a local garden center just lightly cover a piece of bright yellow plastic with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and put it near the hibiscus plants. The aphids are attracted to the bright yellow and get stuck in the grease.
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Question: What could be eating holes in my young daylilly shoots in Feb/March in the Portland, OR area?
Anne Clapp: Almost anything! There are weevils active during warm days that produce holes in leaves; other possibilities would be slugs, beetles and wasps. Birds will occasionally peck holes looking for insects and mice will occasionally eat new leaves.
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Question: Dear Anne, I fear I may have ruined my camelia bush. I planted one @ 5 years ago against a blank wall in the front of my house. My intention was to have it climb and cover the wall. I'm always in a quandry as to how to trim it and so I just shape it up a little after it blooms. It really has thrived, but is a little out of control so, I really cut it back this time. It looks horrible and I'm afraid I ruined it. What do you think? Also, I always wonder what to do with my hydrangea as far as trimming it. How would you go about doing that? Thanks for your time. Rene H.
Anne Clapp: Treat your camellia as an espalier. Make the plant more two dimensional and space limbs to give an attractive wall covering. Camellias can survive very hard pruning and grow quite well as espaliered plants. As for the hydrangea, if it blooms in the summer or fall prune it as much as you need to to get it in shape in March. If it blooms in the spring wait until after the plant blooms to prune. I usually remove the oldest stem at ground level to force new growth and then cut back the other stems at varying lengths to make a plant with a more rounded form.
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Question: Hello:
I have a question regarding a rubber tree plant and I seem to be getting a lot of tiny black flies on the plant and the soil. How do I treat these? Thanks, Lynda
Anne Clapp: The little black flies are probably fungus gnats. The eggs often come in bags of potting soil and they hatch with moisture and warmth. The insects eat the decaying organic matter in potting soil but they do not harm the living plants. They are a nuisance but they have a fairly short life cycle. Some people will submerge plants in a large container of water to force the insects out of their hiding places and if you want to do that outside on a warm day It may help some. The older gardening books recommended drenching the soil with a solution of an insecticide such as diazinon.
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Question: Hi Anne, I need information on this beautiful plant. The Japanese Blueberry. I have recently discovered it at the nursery and know that it is widely used in landscaping in our area. I live in northwest Houston. I would like to use them in a large bed as the two anchor plants. I would like to grow then in a tree form and not shaped as a cone. I am having a very difficult time finding them in their natural state. Most plants sold are shaped into a cone. My question to you is: Can I take one of these cone trimmed specimens and turn it into a tree? Or should I hold out for one that is grown like a shrub and then groom it up into a tree with multiple trunks? The area these are going in is around a circular driveway. If you have any suggestions for specimen trees in our area, preferably evergreen, I would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you, Yogi
Anne Clapp: The only blueberries I know anything about are of genus Vaccinium, the fruits used in pies, muffins etc. I cannot imagine anyone trying to prune them into a conical shape. Obviously there is a shrub by the common name blueberry used in the Houston area that is not listed in the horticulture reference books. I suggest you contact your local cooperative extension for any information they may have on the plant. Surely the ag.tamu.edu website would have some information.
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Question: I planted 16 "Oleanders" spring of 2006 that I purchased from our local Lowe's Home Improvement store here in Wilmington NC.They grew well,flowered lovely and appeared to be very healthy.They were about 3' to 3 &1/2' feet tall when I planted them & by fall they had reached the height of about 4 & 1/2' feet tall.By mid December all the leaves on all bushes had turned brown.Now it is mid February 2007 & they look totally brown.I planted the bushes as shrubs in front of my home as a foundation protector (4' from the foundation) in a well made bed with mulch & boarder as a protector for the bed.It was my understanding that this spices were Evergreens.Is this normal for the Oleander in this area? Have they died? Is there something I can do for them? Thank you for your advice, Jean
Anne Clapp: Sometimes oleanders will defoliate from transplant shock but I would have expected that to occur before December. Extreme cold weather will cause defoliation but I do not think you have had anything below 20 in Wilmington this winter. Water – too much will drown the plants and too little affects the foliage as well – can cause defoliation. Break one of the stems to see if there is still a green cambium layer around the stem. If it appears to be live wood the plant may produce new foliage in the spring. Even evergreen plants will lose leaves when they are under stress. Hopefully yours will recover in a few weeks.
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Question: Anne, I live in Dallas, Texas. I was considering planting a black walnut tree. I heard gardenias, hydrangeas, and lilac bushes fair well under these trees. Will they tolerate Texas summers and winters? -Olivia
Anne Clapp: There are very few plants that will grow under a black walnut tree. A chemical, juglans, secreted by the roots of the walnut tree stunts or kills many plants. Most people do not plant black walnuts as an ornamental tree because it is difficult to find a plant that will grow well near the tree's rot system.
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Question: I saw your story on geraniums. I've been told that planting geraniums around plants susceptible to Japanese beetles will draw the beetles away and eliminate them. Is this true? Thanks. Carl M. of Raleigh.
Anne Clapp: No. Japanese beetles are not attracted to geraniums but they are not repelled by them either.
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Question: When is the right time to plant a redbud sapling?
Anne Clapp: Redbuds may be transplanted in January and February. A container-grown plant may be planted at any time but the better time to plant a container-grown redbud id October to April. |