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Ask Anne Clapp - Archives - Page 2

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Question: Hi Anne, could you please tell me how can I grow my Bonsai properly? It's a fucus bonsai. It's not doing very well. I changed the pot and the soil also, even then it's not doing good. Help me.

Anne Clapp: The trick to growing bonsai is good light and correct soil moisture. When the plants are repotted you have to make sure the roots are trimmed to keep the plant at its dwarf size. Use a fast draining potting soil. Several garden centers in the Raleigh area do have bonsai soil mixes. In hot weather, if the plant is outside you may have to water at least once a day. You do not want the plan to put on a lot of growth so fertilizing must be done carefully. Some growers use a very dilute liquid fertilizer while others use a slow release granular product. There is a local bonsai society so keep an eye out for one of their exhibitions or meetings to talk with some people who have luck growing ficus plants.

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Question: I am including a picture of my lawn. I have been told that the weeds are called chicweed. Is that correct and how can I control it? In the early spring and early summer, I have the greenest and most beautiful lawn on my street. Then these weeds begin to appear and spread in sections of my lawn. This year, I made a special effort to fertilize and apply weed control just as directed on the Scott's product web site. My grass is so thick now that I am afraid to apply and more "weed and feed" product. What do you recommend and how often can I apply it without having adverse effects. Thank you. Alan B.

Anne Clapp: What you have is a plant called hydrocotyl. It is quite prolific in areas that are a bit warmer than we are in the Raleigh area and is sometimes used as as groundcover in wet, compacted soil. Use one of the broad leaf weed killers and add a bit of surfactant to make it cling to the plant leaf. Surfactants are sometimes labeled as spreader-stickers or you can use a few drops of liquid dishwashing detergent.

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Question: Where can I buy large ligustrums and camelias in time for fall planting?

Also, I have a rather large camelia sassanqua bush that half appears to be dead, should I prune out the dead limbs now or will this affect blooming this winter? Thanks, Mark B.

Anne Clapp: Dead wood on camellias should be pruned off as quickly as possible. There are dieback diseases that affect them and the longer damaged wood remains on the plant the more limbs of the plant will die.

I am not sure what you mean by "large" camellia plants. Some nurseries in this area occasionally carry 5 and 7 gallon pots. I would call some of the independent nurseries and see what they have in stock or would be willing to special order for you. Architectural Trees does carry large plants. Check their ad in the News and Observer on Saturday for more information.

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Question: Hi Anne, I am having a problem with my pineapple plant. The ends of the leaves are turning brown and drying up, I have no idea what is wrong. I don't think the plant is dying because there are new leaves in the center of the plant. I am wondering if it's beacuse of the way I am caring for it. Could you tell me what could be wrong and the proper care for this type of plant. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Cindy in Newfoundland

Anne Clapp: Brown leaf tips are usually a sign of uneven moisture levels in the soil. Keep the soil moist but not soggy and do not allow it to dry out completely. Excess fluorine in the water supply may also cause leaf tips to brown. It is not unusual for leaf tips on tropical plants to get brown so as long as the plant continues to put on new growth I would not get too worried. Pineapple plants in the fields in Hawaii often have brown tips on the leaves and they produce very tasty fruit.

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Question: I love my rose bed. About 5 years ago I made a large rose garden about 8 bushes. I filled the bed with top soil. Since I have done this I am having a problem with the black mold.

I spray and try to clean up all the dead leaves and clean them off of the plants before they hit the ground. Could the topsoil be a big culprit in the black mold problem? I have other roses in my yard and they seem to be doing just fine.Where can I get the mancozeb that you mention in one of your segments? I have had this problem for the past 3 years. Thank you, Lynn from Hillsborough

Anne Clapp: I am not sure if you are talking about the fungal disease black spot or if you are talking about the sooty mold that forms on the leaves of plants after aphids have damaged the new growth. Since you are wiring from Hillsborough I suggest that you check with the staff at Reba and Roses for their recommendation for chemicals. Your problem should not be caused by the top soil you brought in but it could have been on one of the new roses that you bought. For a routine spray program to prevent black spot you could try a weekly treatment with the Bayer chemical product for roses. In January you could spray with lime sulfur as an organic control to kill overwintering disease spores.

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Question: My rubber plant is dropping leaves and the branches are becoming spongey to the touch. When you remove the stems they are wet,brown and woody inside instead of being a nice greed. If the stems are left, they shrival up and drop off. My rubber plant is very large and enjoy a nice large pot. IT is of the variety with the small thick leaves. Please help.

Anne Clapp: I think your rubber plant has a problem with too much water. I would suspect that the plant was over-watered or sat in a pan or saucer that held water for too long. The plant really needs to dry out between waterings. When potted plants get very large there may not be enough soil to retain the moisture the roots need. The plant should be repotted at least every third year and moved up to a larger pot. You may want to remove the plant from its pot and check the roots. If there are any healthy roots remaining you may be able to repot it but if there are not good roots you will want to discard it.

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Question: I have some reddish/orange lantanas which I would like to reproduce --they have the thin, less woody stems and the stems dry up during winter . Is the procedure the same as you showed for hydrangeas? Is it too late to begin the process now for plants to be used next spring? - John W.

Anne Clapp: The lantana you describe is easily propagated in the spring from cuttings made from new wood. There may be enough new wood on the plant to make cuttings as late as mid-August. You will have to have winter protection for any cuttings you make this late in the season because they will not be cold-hardy.

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Question: I have noticed many mimosa trees have died this summer. We noticed that the bark is splitting on the tree trunk and the leaves begin to wither, then it slowly dies. What could be causing this? Thank you.

Anne Clapp: The southern mimosa, Albezia julibrissin, is often subject to damage from a disease called bacterial wilt. The disease clogs the vascular passages of the tree and kills it. At this time there is no cure for the disease and it is recommended that infected trees be removed so the disease does not spread as quickly to other trees in the area. Because the tree sets many seeds and is sometimes treated as a pest in the landscape, new trees will reappear in an area within a few years.

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Question: Hello, I live in the Wilmington area and my eucalyptus tree was severly damaged by Charley, our latest hurricane. It was cut back and now has only two limbs. Should it come completely down or will it put out new growth?

Anne Clapp: Your eucalyptus tree should come back in the Wilmington area. Some will produce a new shoot from the root area and the plant will become more shrublike that treelike. I would leave the tree alone and let it recover without additional pruning or treatment.

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Question: Anne, thank you for taking the time to respond. Is there a monthly/regular schedule for fertilizing a fescue lawn throughout the year? What should we be doing now? We have lawn that has new sod and seed in some parts. Thanks again for your time. - Pam H.

Anne Clapp: The feeding schedule for fescue lawns is somewhat dependent on geographic location. In the Raleigh area the recommended feeding dates are early September (Labor Day), late November (Thanksgiving) and a very light feeding with a low nitrogen fertilizer in late January or early February (Valentine's Day). Much of the current research seems to say that the use of nitrogen in the spring increases the problems with fungal diseases in the spring. Fescue really doesn't need more than 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet of lawn area during a year's time.

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Question: I read your archives on the web looking for some tips for our crepe myrtle. One entry said that some white varieties are supposed to reach as much as tewnty feet and should not be pruned shorter. This is our first summer in our new house, so we aren't sure of the specifics with many of the plants. I think we might have one of these varieties. It has reached over fifteen feet this summer. Whoever did plant this crepe myrtle, though, put it in the corner where our garage connects to the rest of the house, in between the house and a walkway. Basically it's stuck in a little triangular area, and it's growing out of control at the moment. How should we prune it so that it isn't on the house or over the walkway?

Anne Clapp: You may want to remove some of the branches that come over the walkway and rub the house. Cut the limbs back to the main trunk or a major branch that is not in the way. Cut back the remaining branches removing any wood that is smaller than your little finger. Prune the plants when they are dormant, usually between November and March in this area.

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Question: I caught the very tail end of the segment on weeding Juniper beds. Can you tell me what I can spray on my junipers to kill the Bermuda Grass growing up and through my junipers. Thanks, Joey M.

Anne Clapp: There are a number of herbicide sprays that will kill grass but not other plants. Poast is probably the more widely available product but look in the herbicide section of the garden center for materials that are labeled as grass killers. Follow the directions very carefully.

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Question: Anne - On your site you answer a question about Bermuda grass growing in a Fescue lawn. "There is a product on the market called Turflan Ester that will kill Bermuda grass without harming fescue." I believe it is made by Dow Agrosciences but they don't claim it does what I want it to, which is the above. AND, I cannot find it anywhere. I'd like to give it a try. I'm wondering if California won't accept this herbicide. What can you tell me? - Nancy M. Cameron Park, CA

Anne Clapp: The Turfan ester product that is being sold in this area is produced by Monterey Chemical Co. in California. It is specifically designed to kill Bermuda in fescue lawns. For information on what can be used in California contact someone in the cooperative extension service. I am sure there is a web site from UCDavis that will have the information.

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Question: Anne, What can be done about tomato blight, it seems every year I have a problem. I rotate my garden, use sooker hose for watering my tomatoesThis year has been terrible all my Early Girl tomatoesare very small, vines went down leaving only the fruit hanging on. Fruit has awfull shapes, will not be able to use them. Thanks for your advice, Jim M.

Anne Clapp: There are some general suggestions for avoiding diseases in tomato plants. Rotation of crops is a major one but some gardeners forget that peppers, eggplants and potatoes are in the same family so you can’t rotate with any of those. Sometimes disease problems come with the plants in their planting cell so growing your own seedlings is sometimes a cure. Good garden soil with lots of organic material and a sparing use of nitrogen in fertilizers promotes fruit growth. Cleaning up well in fall by removing old plants and getting rid of them is important and don’t forget to clean tomato stakes and cages because they can harbor disease problems as well.

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Question: Hi Anne! The problem I have is with my lawn. I am getting brown patches in my lawn about the size of the bottom of a plastic bucket. Could this be be from grub worms, or is it something eating the roots? Thanks, Glen H.

Anne Clapp: There are three major causes of brown patches in the lawn. Grubs are a possibility and you can usually find them by peeling back a piece of turf. There are fungal diseases that cause brown patches during our hot humid summers. The problem seems to be worse in lawns fertilized too late in the spring. Diseases may be prevented with a lawn fungicide. The other culprit is visits from small animals including dogs and rabbits that leave urine spots on the lawn.

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Question: What are some good vegetable plants to start now in a raised bed garden? Thanks, Bill G.

Anne Clapp: There is still time to get bush beans to produce a crop and if you can start tomatoes from suckers of existing plant there is still time to get them to produce. Spinach, leaf lettuce, kale and mustard are green leafy vegetables which will work. Carrots and radish will also produce before cold weather.

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Question: Anne, I just moved here from LI, NY. I am very anxious to start gardening but I am not sure what I should add to the clay soil before I start. I also noticed that my holly bushes have clumps of white spots on the back of the leaves and black speckles on the front. Is this a fungus? What is the best way to treat it? Thanks for everything, Linda

Anne Clapp: I think you have a problem with scale insects on your holly. A popular method of control is horticultural oil spray which smothers the insects in all stages of their development on the plant. Follow the label directions about dilution and the air temperature when using the spray.

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Question: I heard that rose bush will sweat and cause it to be wet. That will cause the fungus to start. Is this true? If so how are you going to prevent it. All, so how do you prevent the fungus to get started in the first place? - Faye

Anne Clapp: Rose bushes do not sweat! Dew will collect on a bush in the morning and water will collect on the surface of the leaves after a shower from Mother Nature or your garden sprinkler. If a leaf spot disease is present on the leaves it could be transferred to other leaves if the moisture falls on another leaf. Some roses seem to have a dark green shiny leaf surface that repels the spores of the black spot fungus. Rugosa roses seem to repel black spot with a very rough textured leaf. Humans spray roses with a fungicide to prevent the development of fungus on roses. We also pick off infected leaves and clean up gardens in the fall to remove all leaves and plant material that could be carrying the diseases.

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Question: I have a mole problem. I have tried the spring traps, decon rat and mouse poison and no luck. I tried moth balls and that has got them on the move but not gone. I used grub control and I don’t think I have any. The moles are eating the roots off my red tips. I was told there is a plant you can put in yard and it will run them away. Thank you, Jerry J.

Anne Clapp: Two varmints often get confused in this area: moles and voles. Moles are meat eaters that consume grubs and earthworms in the soil. They do not do damage to plants but they do make runs that raise long tunnels in lawns and flower beds. Moles are caught with the harpoon traps that stab the animal in the tunnel. There are some sprays advertised to repel moles and there is a euphorbia that is often sold by mail order nurseries as the mole plant. So far I have found it good at making more little mole plants. Voles are vegetarians that feed on plant roots and stems. They often use old mole runs to move about the garden. Voles are also called pine mice and can be killed with mousetraps baited with apple and peanut butter. You may also use mouse poisons such as Rozol. The poison is dropped into the small holes near the runs. You keep a bait supply for at least 10 days to kill them.

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Question: All of my crepe myrtle trees' leaves are covered with tiny white bugs on the underside and a black color on the top of the leaves. What are these and how can I get rid of them and the black color? My trees are 4 years old and good size.

Anne Clapp: The tiny white bugs are probably white flies or aphids. The black on top of the leaves is sooty mold. The insects suck the leaves and leave a sugary substance on the leaf which then gets moldy. Insecticidal soap or one of the summer weight insecticidal oils will take care of both the insects and the sooty mold.

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Question: Hi Anne: I recently purchased and planted a twisted baby robinia. I planted it in an urn and took special care not to disturb the roots as the weather has been very warm here as of late. (Parksville, B.C.) Vancouver Island, Canada. Zone 7to8)The leaves are turning yellow. Could this be Transplant Shock and if so what should I do???? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: I think you may have a problem with watering your Robinia. The common name for the plant is acacia and most of the labels tell you to be careful watering the plants. They do not like soggy soil that keeps their roots wet nor do they like to be too dry. You could try some of the moisture retention crystals that are being offer in garden centers and catalogs to help solve the problem.

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Question: I have 2 oak trees that I have grown from acorns in pots on out deck. I noticed a few what looked to be aphids on them and now one of them has white furry fungus looking stuff on it. I was wondering what it might be and what I need to do to get rid of it. Thanks, Jeremy

Anne Clapp: With only two small oaks to treat I would try the simplest thing first – just wash the plants off with the hose. The next step if the problem comes back is to use some insecticidal soap; make sure you spray the bottom of the leaves.

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Question: We probably have over 200 Leyland Cypress trees. Is there anything to prevent bagworms from getting on the trees? Thanks, Mitzi C.

Anne Clapp: When you have a lot of Leyland Cyprus you need to keep an eye out for bagworms. At the first sign spray the plants with Bt (Bacillus thuringensus) for an organic gardening control or use Sevin or Orthene Insect Spray for a chemical control.

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Question: Dear Anne, I am an avid Sat morning listener and now that we have RR we can read your column here too. What I need to know is how to keep artemesia tidy. Mine gets so long and leggy. Should I cut it back in the fall and how much should I cut? Thanks, Cleo

Anne Clapp: I keep my Artemisia cut back throughout the summer. Just whack it back to a manageable size whenever it gets out of hand. It seems to survive severe trimming as long as there are still roots in the ground.

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Question: Hi, When is it safe to prune back my azaleas and gardenias? Thank you, Tony

Anne Clapp: The ideal time to prune back azaleas and gardenias is just after they finish blooming. Azaleas have already set their blooms for next spring so cutting them back now might reduce your flowers next spring. Minor trimming of gardenias could be done now because they may still have time to put on new growth before our first freeze. I prefer to do heavy pruning of gardenias in late March.

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Question: Hi Anne,
I'm not sure this qualifies as a garden question, but I was wondering if you could tell me about an oak tree in my yard. I noticed a bunch of hornets swarming around the base of an oak tree and thought there was a nest. But after watching (carefully!) I noticed the hornets were actually attracted to the base of the tree because sap (I assume) was bubbling out of two small holes. I'm wondering if something has bored its way into my tree and is going to kill it. I sprayed some pesticide on the base of the tree to keep the hornets away and then dug down a little into the ground and there were 3 small green grubs (looked like small caterpillars) and a small beetle (looked like a Japanese bettle, sort of) in the ground, dying from the spray. I don't know if they are incidental to this or part of it. Do you have any ideas or advice? Thanks a lot, John R.

Anne Clapp: There are several diseases and insects that will produce the problems you describe. Bruising the tree or piercing the bark with machinery will also cause similar symptoms. If the tree is young and generally healthy it will survive without outside help. If it is a large, old tree you may want to consult an arborist who specializes in caring for trees.

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Question: My fruit on my tomatoe plants have brown spots, I have been told that this is a calcium deficency and that garden lye would take care of the problem, if this is so where would I buy garden lye? I have looked at garden stores and can't seem to find this product. Thank you, Jan F.

Anne Clapp: The brown spot on the bloom end of tomatoes is called blossom end rot. It is caused by calcium deficiency and uneven moisture levels in the soil. If the first tomatoes have a problem pull them off because they won’t be fit to eat. New blooms on the plant should be sprayed with a spray of calcium chloride or a similar calcium compound. They are usually sold as Blossom End Rot Preventer, Tomato Blossom Spray or some similar name. Spray the bloom or small developing fruit before the tomato gets any larger than your thumbnail. When planting tomatoes you need to make sure the soil has been well limed. I use dolomitic lime in my garden and put the lime in the soil in late fall when I clean it for the winter. That allows the lime to break down in the soil over the winter so the calcium will be available for tomato plants the following summer.

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Question: Anne, I have a cactus in a hanging basket that bloomed from late November through January; it's still full and green sitting near a sunny window. Would it like to be outside during the summer or should I continue to treat it as a houseplant? Thanks! - Barbara

Anne Clapp: My cactus seems to like being outdoors in the summer but that is probably because it doesn’t get treated very well in the house during the summer. They seem to do well in a shadier spot outdoors. They certainly do not like the hot afternoon sun. If you do put it outside it will need to be cleaned up well before you bring it back in the house. They do pick up insects that have to be washed off.
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Question: Hi Anne, I have an established Zenith Zoysia lawn which grows in reddish clay soil. Some areas of the lawn have started to produce knotweeds. I have been spot treating the knotweeds with a weed killer. Is there a better way to control the knotweed. It seems to spread and even grows up through the Zoysia. Thanks, Mark

Anne Clapp: Spot treatment with a post emergent weed killer will take care of plants that exist in the lawn but knotweed goes to seed rather quickly so a good preemergent herbicide used in April for a year or two may help get the problem under control more quickly.

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Question: If the Calla lilies are still green I would put them in the ground now. Daffodils could probably be put back in the ground as well. I treat most tulips as annuals in Raleigh because of vole damage and soil that gets too hot. Mt. Airy is just cool enough to allow tulips to come back but you may want to wait until October to plant them. There are several good garden clubs in the Mt. Airy area with members that should be able to answer questions about planning new flower beds. Good luck!

Anne Clapp: Hi Anne, We recently moved to a different house in Mt. Airy and I dug up some of the daffodil, tulip and calla lilies from the house we moved from. All had finished blooming with the exception of the calla lilies and I put all of the bulbs into pots of soil so I could transplant them. When would be the best time to attempt this...now or in the fall? I would also like to find out how I can get ideas for planting annuals and perinnials in a newly landscaped yard (receiving a hardy amount of sunlight as there are few trees). Thanks, Joyce Valley
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Question: My white annable hydrangea bush gets tons of buds but it doesn't open-it is 3 years old . I have the same bush about 3 feet away and get huge flowers from it but i can't seem to get this one to open. In the spring they both grow and get buds the same way but the bush just won't produce the full flower heads.What is wrong and how do I fix?

Anne Clapp: The three reasons I know for flower buds not opening are thrips, botrytis fungus and uneven soil moisture. It doesn’t make sense that two plants that close to each other would not share the same problem after three years of co-habitation. I would prune back the one that is not blooming and clean up all the leaves and debris under the plant then mulch it well for the winter. After that I have been know to explain to the plant that if it doesn’t perform it goes on the compost pile next year.
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Question: Hi: I have a bead of red Cana lillies and they are blooming. I recently read an article that said that after they bloom, the stalk should be cut to the ground. Is this true and should I do this? I spray with Ortho Systemic containing Isotox to control leaf rollers and spray with Peterson's super bloom often. Any other sugestions? Thank you. RW

Anne Clapp: Cannas will rebloom if you cut the spent blooms from the plant. I do not cut the bloom stalk all the way to the ground but I do cut it just above the leaf on the bloom stalk. In the fall when the foliage gets hit by the frost I cut the plant to the ground and get rid of the leaves to help prevent leaf rollers next spring. I do put some leaf compost over the area for a bit of winter protection.
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Question: Hello Anne! Last fall I planted a Carolina Jessamine in front of a 4’ x 8’ lattice section I built to create a “living wall.” The Jessamine has grown to a height of 7 feet and about 3 feet across but it is “thin.” I have trained the vine to grow in a spread out pattern, and it has for the most part, but new growth has seemed to cease. Should I be trimming or cutting back at the base in order for the vine to continue to flourish upward and out? Or would that cause strain on the root structure? Bill

Anne Clapp: To cover the lattice you will need more than one stem coming from the base of the plant. Keeping the growing tips cut back will encourage more side growth. To produce more than one stem from the ground you can cut the plant back to about 15 inches from the ground. Some gardeners find that using a tablespoon or so of Epsom salts sprinkled around the base of the plant in the spring will encourage new stems to form at the base of the plant.
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Question: I am looking for any number variety of toad lillies. I have a lavendar and white and a purple and white, I can get these here in Springfield, Illinois. I am obsessing over toad lillies with different colors. I have seen them on the internet, but can't find any to buy, - reds, purples, oranges, yellows, etc. Can you help me?

Anne Clapp: Three mail-order nurseries that have had several toad lilies in their catalogs are Siskiyou Rare Plant Nursery in Medford, Oregon; We-Du Nursery in Marion, NC and Crownsville Nursery in Crownsville, Md. I love the plants in my garden; the rabbits and deer love them as well!
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Question: Anne, I enjoy the information you give on News 14 For Your Garden and on WPTF. Thank You for this service. Gardenia's...Is it too late to prune them back now? I
know that you should prune right after the flowers fade. How should you propagate from a existing gadenia? Is it similar to the way you do azalea's?

Thyme... I put some 10-10-10 fertilizer out and some Sevin Dust 5% out, not much, and I had only one thyme plant, it has turned brown and the small leaves have fallen off and I think it is dead. It was very vibrant. What should I do with it now? Thanks, Tim

Anne Clapp: I have pruned gardenias lightly in early July and sometimes have a second flush of bloom in the fall. When I have to do major pruning I prefer to do it in the early spring to keep new growth from being hurt by a late frost. Gardenias are propagated in much the same way that azaleas are. Some gardeners also have luck rooting them in water.

Your thyme probably did not like its fertilizer. They like to grow in fast draining soil with a pH closer to 6.0-6.5. They will survive quite well in clay and sand amended with leaf mulch compost and seem to do better without the addition of fertilizer.
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Question: We have a problem that has occurred only this year with both voles and moles in our yard. I would like to know what you recommend to rid our yard of these pests since they are destroying our sod and some of our shrubs. We have tried a battery operated stake-like device that vibrates and makes a noise but it really has not seemed to do much but vibrate and make a noise! We do not have any pets or young children and our yard is fenced in. Thanks in advance, Roxie

Anne Clapp: My two major lines of defense for voles are the mousetrap baited with apple and peanut butter and the mouse poison called Rozol. Put the mousetrap near one of the small holes where the voles are doing their damage. Cover it with a large flower pot to keep out the light. The directions for using Rozol are on the package. I put the pellets in the new holes and watch it every day to make sure there is a continuous supply of the bait available for 10 days. Predatory cats also do a good job of keeping the vole population at bay.
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Question: I am new to the area and am having trouble getting the grass to grow. I would appreciate any advice on a grass that will stand up to being under oak trees, heat, and a couple of dogs. I may be asking for the impossible but any help would be appreciated. Patrick

Anne Clapp: Welcome to the tribe of gardeners that have difficulty growing lawns in the Raleigh area. The best grass for heavy traffic in summer heat and humidity is a warm season grass such as Bermuda or zoysia but it does go dormant and get brown in the winter. Fescue, which is the predominant grass in this area, looks good in fall, winter and spring but does have problems in the heat of summer. No grass really likes to grow under oak trees so we learn to design natural areas with a few shade growing plants and a lot of mulch or groundcovers.
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Question: Last year and this year starting in April and May lasting through June the Maple tree by our deck was covered with what I thought were little white clusters of strings. They attracted flies by the hordes and got a sticky substance all over every thing. Since the hot weather hit the mess is gone, however, I am afraid it will reappear next year also if we don’t find out what it is. Do you have any suggestions? The tree is a fast growing Maple and seems otherwise healthy. These things disintegrated when you touched them. Barbara

Anne Clapp: You may have had an infestation of one of the scale insects that we occasionally see on maples. The more common one is cottony maple scale which may be controlled with a dormant oil spray. Spray the plant with a dormant oil spray in early spring before the tree begins to leaf out. There is a hose-end sprayer with oil spray being marketed this year which would be easier to use than mixing a tank of spray for a tree.
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Question: Anne, Have you ever seen the celedon green hydrangeas? The blooms are the most beautiful green. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Are they rare as none of the local nurseries carry them. Thanks, Cathy

Anne Clapp: Several of the mail order nurseries are listing green hydrangeas this year. The plant is not widely available in nurseries because it is not as popular as Endless summer, Annabelle, Pia or many of the other hydrangeas on the market. If you haven’t tried Homewood Nursery in Raleigh you might check with them. They seem to have the largest hydrangea selection in the area this year.
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Question: Dear Anne: I live in Atlanta, GA and just purchased 4 Bay Breeze Hawthorne (Rhaphiolepis i.). The sales person said to treat them like azaleas, but I do not find any mention of Hawthorne on any of the products for azaleas. Could you please tell me something about these as to sun and location. They have beautiful glossy leaves. Thank you, Donna

Anne Clapp: Rhaphiolepsis is actually a member of the rose family. They like sun, well drained humus-rich soil, and protection from cold winter winds. The older garden books list them as a zone 8 plant. Fertilizers for acid-loving plants such as azaleas and camellias would work well for your hawthorne.
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Question: Hi, I have a problem with sparrows destroying my Leyland Cypress trees. They have broken hundreds of branches on my trees. I occasionally see them hopping about incessantly from branch to branch and have seen them bite off a small branch. Have you ever heard of this problem? Is there any way to stop them? Thank you, Steve G.

Anne Clapp: I think the sparrows are probably catching insects on your plant. Check the plants carefully for signs of small bag worms or other insects. There are several techniques for keeping birds away from trees - the fake owls will work for a while, shiny aluminum pie plates tied to branches seem to scare them. There is also a bird netting that is used for keeping birds off fruit trees.
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Question: For the past 3 years having problem with my cucumber and zuchinni plants very healthy looking and some fruit on vine and then the leaves wilt and plant dies off what could be the problem and how to get rid of it. Thank you, Linda

Anne Clapp: I think your problem may be bacterial wilt. The bacteria that causes it is spread by the spotted cucumber beetle. Pull up and get rid of the infected plants. Next year, or for a second try this year, cover the sprouted seedlings with cheesecloth or floating row cover and use an insecticide for the beetles.
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Question: Hi Anne, I grew up in southern Virginia. We had a shrub in our yard that we called the "First Burst of Spring". In the springtime, it had the most fragrant little pinkish white flowers, followed by red berries which as children we use to eat. Can you tell me the name of this bush? I would certainly appreciate it. The shrub was located close to our front porch and died as a result of fire damage when our house burned down. I would like to buy one and plant it on my lawn here in Cary. Thank you, Charlie

Anne Clapp: I think the botanical name of the plant you are looking for is Chimonanthus praecox. It is also know as Winter Sweet and First Breath of Spring. Check with Cary Garden Center, Fairview Garden Center or Garden Supply for the plant.
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Question: Anne, I have hybrid rose in my yard it gave about 2 dozen 3 inch flowers in the last month. The arrival of Beatles and humid weather I used chemicals but with next rain it washes away and I have cut down the rose to a foot from ground thus no beatles can feed on the leaves. Can you recommend any disease free roses? Do you know of any root treatment which can prevent the black spots and discourage the Beetles?
Thanks.

Anne Clapp: I do not know of a root treatment that will prevent both blackspot and Japanese beetles nor do I know of a disease free rose. There are some roses that are more resistant to blackspot than others. The floribundas Sunsprite and Sunflare are both resistant to blackspot. The floribunda Scentimental also seems to be disease resistant. The Rugusa roses are also disease resistant.
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Question: Please tell me when is the best time to prune my camelias? Thank You, Janie

Anne Clapp: Sasanqua camellias get pruned in late winter or early spring because they bloom in the fall and early winter. Japonica camellias are best pruned just after they finish blooming in the early spring. This allows the plants to put on their new growth and set the blooms for next years growth. If you look at camellias right now you will notice that their bloom buds for next year are already in place.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have two bougainvilleas that I bought last year in hanging baskets and they bloomed beautifully. This year, in the same place, they have not bloomed at all. I had overwintered them inside. Do they require cutting back to bloom and/or fertilizer? Do they need to be repotted? They seem healthy. I have heard that they like to be pot-bound and a little on the dry side. I have given them some weak fertilizer and cut them back but I'm not sure if I have done the right thing. What do you advise? Thanks so much! - Courtney

Anne Clapp: I cut back Bougainvillea in the early spring and give it some liquid fertilizer for blooming houseplants. Fertilizing once a month during the blooming season seems to be enough for healthy plants. Mine seem to need repotting every other year.

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Question: I planted a Crimson Queen Japanese Maple in May 2004. It was absolutely beautiful until about 2-3 weeks ago. The leaves are now a brownish orange color and the leaves are also very droopy and feel dry. The tree is about 5 1/2 ft tall and 4 1/2 feet wide. We live in Eastern Orange County and the soil is red clay. We water it frequently and also feed it regularly with Miracle Grow plant food. The tree does not get any morning sun. It only gets afternoon sun. Everything else in our yard seems to be thriving including our newly planted grass and our vegetable garden. We would love to save the tree. Do you have any advice as to what we could possibly do for it? Thanks so much, Jennifer C

Anne Clapp: I think your Japanese Maple would have preferred not having any Miracle Grow. It does develop crispy brown leaves in the hot afternoon sun of this part of North Carolina. When you plant a new tree as large as the one you have I prefer to add a bit of phosphate to the soil at the time of planting just because it takes so long for phosphorus to move through the soil. It really doesn’t need any fertilizer until the plant begins to establish new roots. The Miracle Grow is encouraging the development of new top growth and leaves that have a hard time adjusting to our heat, humidity and clay soil. My Crimson Queen has been in the ground for 20 years and gets a good dose of leaf mulch compost twice a year. If there is a way to provide afternoon shade for the plant it should help.

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Question: Anne, I would like to root a cutting from a fig bush. The bush is probably 30 years old, very healthy and very prolific. What steps should I follow to ensure success? There is a possibility I may be able to take the whole bush. Is that a good option and if so how should I do that to stress the plant the least? And finally when I plant the cutting or bush, what are the best conditions for it? Thank you for your help, Connie

Anne Clapp: I have the best luck rooting figs in the late winter or early spring. Take a cutting about 8 inches long from dormant wood before the buds break but after you can see the swelling on the stems. Put at least five inches of the stem in the ground and water it well. Place a layer of mulch up over the top of the stem and leave it until you see signs of the buds developing in late spring. Some people will use the same technique in the fall after the leaves drop from the plant but I do not seem to have luck with rooting fall cuttings. The trick is to root figs from dormant wood.
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Question: Dear Ann, I have had my roses planted in their own individual pots for about a year. Recently, I have moved them out of their pots and planted them in my backyard. In about two hours, they started to wilt. Since then, they have not done to well.

Can you please let me know what I did wrong? It is heart breaking to see them the way they are. They were full of roses and now I am getting none. Kindest Regards, Marilyn

Anne Clapp: It is hard for roses to get acclimated to life in the ground after they have been in a pot for a long period of time. The trick is to provide them with some sort of artificial protection from the hot sun until they have reestablished a root system. They will need a light daily watering until the new roots start to develop. Do not use any fertilizer on the plants until they stop wilting.
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Question: Anne, I have about 1/4 to 3/8 of an acre that is covered with a very tall grass and receives full-sun all day long. I would like cover this area with a spread of wildflowers to attract honeybees. After mowing and baling the grass, what would be the best way to grow wildflowers from seed (organic methods only), and where can one order a large quantity of wildflower seed? Thanks! Jeff

Anne Clapp: One of the best sources of information on starting a wildflower meadow in North Carolina comes from the NC Department of Transportation. Our DOT Wildflower program has received several national awards. They have a publication that gives instructions for establishing wildflowers and they do have a source of seeds for home gardeners. Their method does recommend spraying for weeds but other than that their method is workable for organic gardening. You will need to make a seedbed in the grassy area but that can be done by cutting the grass and then using a power rake or thatcher to make a seedbed in the grassy area. The seed is then sown in place and kept watered until the new plants germinate.

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Question: I saw your program one time (before I acquired a dog) on which you applied some liquid solution to brown spots on a lawn after the dog urinates. I am now trying to find some solution to this problem. I have tried about every available product found on-line or at Pets Mart but no avail.After the dog urinates it simply burns up the grass leaving brown patches. Do you have any answers to the brown staining and grass burning problem associated with pet urine? -Casey

Anne Clapp: The trick that I always used was gypsum that is available in many garden centers. It is recommended for softening clay soils but gardeners find it useful to spread on chemical spills and dog and cat urine problems. Just sprinkle the powder on the spot and then water it in.

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Question: This is not a gardening question but I thought you might know. I see people with beautiful decorations on the outside of their houses, i.e. squirrels on the chimney and my favorite was a butterfly attached to the chimeny of a house. I was wondering if you know where to purchase these items. I would love to have the butterfly. - Betty

Anne Clapp: Several of the garden stores in the area do carry some of the house decorations like the ones you describe. Some of the Wild Bird Stores also carry some of the decorations. There are also several catalog sources such as Lillian Vernon that have carried them in the past.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have two Cleveland Pear trees in my front yard. We planted them last year. I now have tiny green balls all over the trees. Does this mean that the trees we bought are fruit bearing Cleveland pears? Thanks, Tracie T.

Anne Clapp: Cleveland pears do bear fruit just as Bradford pears do. You will want to rake up the fruit when it falls to the ground or you will soon have a yard full of strange wild pear trees. Many birds and squirrels will eat the fruit during the summer.
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Question: I have a butterfly bush that has been dropping leaves towards the bottom of the plant. I am not finding any insects but the leaves are turning yellow with a few dark dead looking spots on the leaves. My zinna's in another flower bed are doing the same thing. Could you please tell me what I need to do? Thank you for your help. Cathy S. of Raleigh

Anne Clapp: The lower leaves of plants often turn yellow and drop from the plant. These are the older leaves that have done their job and are ready to be replaced by new leaves. It is probably a natural leaf drop so I would not be concerned.

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Question: Anne, Help!!! Japanese Beetles are invading my garden! They are have especially eaten up my roses! I have some beetle bags out and have dusted with Sevin, but the beetles keep coming back! - Mary

Anne Clapp: I have used the liquid form of Sevin to keep the beetles under control but it is usually necessary to spray every day until the beetles are gone. The beetles are often attracted by the scent of the flowers on roses so if you keep the spent blooms deadheaded you will have fewer problems. I also cut any yellow or white blooms just as they begin to open and bring them in the house for a bouquet. The beetles are attracted more to flowers than leaves so if you keep the flowers off the bushes for the two weeks or so of the major beetle infestation you will have less damage to the leaves of the plant.

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Question: Dear Ann, I have a 9 year old clematis armandii that in past years has been lush and beautiful. This past spring it was infested with aphids - which I got rid of - but many of the leaves have since turned brown and died and the vine isn't looking very healthy. I have given it some fish emulsion to encourage new growth but it's not producing. Do you know what has caused it to lose it's leaves and how it can regain it's lushness? Thanks, Wendy

Anne Clapp: There are several things that might be causing Armand problems. Aphids often come to plants that are putting on lush new growth. If you wait too late to correct the problem the plant may suffer. There is still time to cut the clematis back and produce new growth before cold weather. The combination of pruning and fertilizer that you have already applied should force new growth. You might also check the root system of the plant to be sure the drainage is still good in that area of the yard and to be sure that nothing has broken the stems of the plant. Brown leaves on a plant are sometimes an indication that chemical damage has occurred or they can be from lack of nutrients from the root zone of the plant.

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Question: I have 2 very nice basil plants, 1 a genovese, the other a sweet basil, problem is something seems to be eating the leaves. I don't see any insects and I applied Sevin dust. Do you have any idea what it could be or what I need to do? I live in Fayetteville and the plants are oudoors. Need some help, Joe

Anne Clapp: Rabbits seem to enjoy basil. I now grow mine in pots so they can’t get to it. A small fence may keep them out. The books say to spray with red pepper but that makes the basil taste bad so don’t use any of the sprays that are labeled for preventing damage from rabbits.

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Question: Hi Anne! I have a peace lily growing very nicely. I cut a dry leave and this powder substance appeared. What is that? Could I have hit the stem of the bloom and it came from that? How do I know when its ready to replant? Is this plant safe for children? Thank you, Stephanie - Raleigh

Anne Clapp: The powder substance is probably pollen from the bloom. The plant is ready to move to a larger pot when you see roots coming from the bottom of the pot or when the new growth seems to wilt quickly even though you are watering the plant. The peace lily is not listed as a poisonous plant so I would consider it safe for children.

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Question: I have bought two hibiscus, and something is eating the leaves, we have sprayed insecticides on them, nothing seems to help. Also my morning glories have big holes in the leafs from something. What can you reccommend? I love these flowers, but they are not doing well at all. Thanks for your help, Mary G. of Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: Big holes in leaves could come from various caterpillars or weevils. It is best to spray when you see the pests actively working on their meal. If you sprayed with liquid sevin or one of the all-purpose garden insecticides you may have killed the pest. The morning glories are hard enough to survive a few holes in their leaves. Some insects work at night so you may not see them on the plant.

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Question: Do you know what I can do to prevent my 10 year old Yellow Lab's urine from killing my centipede grass?

Anne Clapp: You could try using powdered gypsum which is sold in garden centers to help soften clay soils. It is often used to control chemical spills and clean up after we use some ice removal chemicals in the winter. You just sprinkle a few tablespoons on the area and water it in.

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Question: I have a lot of little 3" pine seedlings popping up in my yard. Can I transplant them to a better location? How long will it take them to mature and at what rate?

Anne Clapp: It will take several years for the pine seedlings to get to landscape size. Depending on the variety of pine it may take 15 years to get a tree taller than a two-story house.

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Question: I have a resident vole in my back yard. I also have a cat and two dogs out there who can't seem to catch the vole! I don't want to put poison out because of the pets. Do you have any suggestions on how to catch/destroy the vole?

Anne Clapp: Try a mouse trap. Bait it with a piece of apple and some peanut butter. Put the mousetrap next to one of the small holes in the ground that may be the home of the vole and put a flower pot with a brick on top of it over the trap and the hole. If you have one vole you probably have several because they seem to like large families. It may take more than one trap to get the population under control.

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Question: I am a first-time gardener for vegetables. The leaves of the plants were being eaten by something (?) so I put out sevin dust. Now the plants are all yellow. Did I use too much?

Anne Clapp: You may have applied too much Sevin dust but I don’t think that was what caused your plants to turn yellow. Yellow leaves may be caused by plants under stress from too much water around the roots or from some of the wilt diseases. Plants that do not have enough nitrogen will also turn yellow. Lack of iron will cause yellow leaves with green veins in the leaves. You might check with a garden center or your local extension agent to see if they can diagnose the problem for you.

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Question: Hello Anne: Thanks so much for all your advice. I have a sweet Olive that is currently in full sun from 11:00am till the sun goes down. The poor thing is really struggling. Some of the leaves are browning and it does not seem to flower much. What might be the trouble? Should I move it? If so, how much sun should it get? When would be the best time for the move? Thanks for all you do. Neil B.

Anne Clapp: I think the sweet olive would be happier out of the afternoon sun. It also may have a problem from lack or moisture in the soil. If you decide to move it try to move the plant in the fall when temperatures are a bit cooler and the plant is not trying to put on new growth. Keep it watered if we do not have adequate rainfall.

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Question: We have a lot of trees in our back yard - nothing bigger than 12" in diameter and mostly smaller. We have cut down many of these because they are sweet gums and not pretty and have those awful sweet gum balls falling everywhere! We cut the trees even with the ground, but the stumps are still there and keep regrowing. How can we stop this regrowth? Is there any reason we have to remove the stumps, i.e. termites?

Anne Clapp: You don’t have to grind the stumps or have them removed. Just keep the new growth cut off; you can paint Roundup on the stem cut when you remove the green growth. There are some products on the market called stump rot that have directions to drill holes in the stump and pour the chemical in the holes. There are several formulas and they will vary in effectiveness. Eventually the stumps do decay and they do no harm in the process.

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Question: Would like to know what to do with outside Easter Lillies after they have bloomed? Should they be cut back and if so when? Thanks for sharing this information, Doris B. of Fayetteville.

Anne Clapp: You really don’t have to do anything to them. I do cut the spent blooms off to keep them from going to seed but you want to leave as much green material on the bulb as possible to keep the bulb healthy for next year. After the first killing frost I cut the stem back to ground level and mulch the area with ground leaves or compost.

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Question: Hi, Can you tell me (and give me guidelines for how) when I should prune camelias? I live in Durham, Thank you, Stephen

Anne Clapp: Ideally, Camellia japonicas are pruned right after they bloom which may be as late as early April in this area. Camellia sasanquas can be pruned in February because they will be through blooming by then.

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Question: Dear Anne: I have a row of leyland cyprus that I planted last fall. They were about 4' tall. They have shown good signs of growth, but in the last month or so, the central leader is leaning over and some have showed signs of drying up. The rest of the tree seems healthy. The new growth about a foot down of the tree is not growing outwards, but seems to arc and then grow out. It seems to stress the center of the arc and you can see sap where the limb is bent. What can I do? Is pruning necessary on these arcs to relieve the weight? Thank You, Theresa

Anne Clapp: Trees don't always grow like the pictures in books. When tips of plants turn brown it can be from lack of moisture, sun scald or insect damage. We had some very hot dry weather in May and that could be the source of the brown tips. As for the arching limbs, that is a fairly common growth pattern. I would not prune the limbs because that would spoil the shape of the plant. I would be careful and not fertilize the plants to see if a slower growth will help the plants recover.

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Question: I have heard that garlic is good for roses. Is it? and if so how is it used? Betty S.

Anne Clapp: Many of the books on organic gardening advocate planting garlic in rose beds because it repels some insects that damage roses and attracts some beneficial insects that will attack harmful insects.

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Question: Ms. Clapp, Is there any way to selectively kill Bermuda grass without harming the surrounding / infested Tall Fescue? Thanks, Regards, Dwight O.

Anne Clapp: There is a product on the market called Turflan Ester that will kill Bermuda grass without harming fescue. It is available in several Raleigh area independent garden centers.

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Question: I have a rubber tree plant that will not grow. I have tried everything can you give me any suggestions. It has six leaves on it. I transplanted it from a 6 inch pot to a 10 inch pot.

Also, I have a peace plant that will not grow either. I have cut back leaves and also transplanted it too, but the leaves keep dying, looks like the are burnt but is not in direct sun.

Please help, I have been dealing with these plants for over a year now. Regards, Desiree

Anne Clapp: The problem with the Peace Lily is probably water related. The brown and black tip on leaves is usually a sign of too much water. Don’t let the plant sit in water. I also find that rain water is better for watering them. Most city water supplies are treated with fluorides that cause damage to some house plants. Peace lilies seem to be fluorine sensitive. As for the rubber tree, make sure it has good sunlight. You could try watering it with a liquid plant food diluted to about ¼ strength every week during the summer growing season.

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Question: I have mounds of soft dirt/soil in my garden. A neighbor said I might have voles. How do you know for sure and how to you rid your garden of these pests? Enjoy "For Your Garden" segments on News 14. Regards, Sue F.

Anne Clapp: When I see mounds of soft dirt in the lawn area I usually think of moles eating grubs and earthworms in the soil. When I see soft areas and small, quarter-sized holes in the flower beds I think of voles eating my favorite plants. Often the moles dig the tunnels and leave then the voles come in and use the tunnels for underground visits. You can use a cat to catch both critters. Voles may be trapped with a mouse trap baited with peanut butter and apple. Put the trap next to one of the entry holes and cover it with a flower pot or small garbage can to keep the area dark. You are also allowed to use mouse poison in the holes to kill voles. The poison recommended in North Carolina is Rozol.

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Question: Anne, My wife planted a Hydrangea last year and this year, there is plenty of foliage, but no flowers. What could be the cause of no flowers? Thank you for your help. Jerry from Durham

Anne Clapp: Sometimes plants do not bloom the first year they are in the ground because the plant is developing a root system. Since the plant has put on a lot of foliage you could have put too much fertilizer around the plant during its first year in its new home. Too much nitrogen often produces new leaves and discourages flowering.

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Question: I have always been facinated with and loved hydrangeas due to the variety of bloom colors from pink to blue seen on one bush, however, I am so far unsuccessful with getting mine to bloom at all! I rooted one from a cutting of a favorite bush in a neighbor's yard, and I have bought two bushes which were blooming at the time. Each year they all put on a mass of healthy green leaves, but no blooms! After reading not to trim them back, I stopped doing that. Two plants are in almost full sun, and one is in morning shade gradually gaining more sun as the day progresses to evening. I have fertilized (watered) with Miracle Gro for acid-loving plants as I had read they preferred an acidic soil, but all to no avail! I must be doing something major wrong, and would appreciate it if you could advise me as to what that might be. (These bushes are from 2 to 5 years in age.) Thank you. - Jane

Anne Clapp: Lots of lush green growth and no blooms usually means you have used too much fertilizer. In the Raleigh area hydrangeas need protection from the afternoon sun because they will wilt and dry out in the heat of summer. If you have amended the soil with organic material and mulch with ground leaves or composted bark hydrangeas don’t need much in the way of additional fertilizer. The soil in the area is usually quite acid enough for hydrangeas.

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Question: Anne, How do you keep little bugs off of them? I enjoying reading your emails they are very helpful also. - Connie of Wake Forest

Anne Clapp: White flies usually get on gardenias no matter what you do. Some people spray with Malathion, others use Orthene. Organic gardeners use insecticidal soap, pyrethrum or the yellow sticky traps. I have used insecticidal soap, leave it on for about 30 minutes and then wash it off with a strong spray of water from the hose.

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Question: Dear Anne, We planted a line of leland cypress tress several years ago. We live in raleigh, nc and the soil here is clay. We are now noticing that the limbs are browning at the base of the trees. Several trees look this way. There does not seem to be any type of bug or fungus on the trunks or branches. What can we do to stop this browning. We love the cypress for a screening between houses. Thank you, Sandra

Anne Clapp: The lower limbs of a Leyland cypress will brown as the plant ages and light does not get to the base of the tree. The limbs also get brown if the male dogs in the neighborhood sprinkle the limbs from time to time. You may want to remove the lower branches and plant something as a groundcover beneath the branches of the leylands.

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Question: Anne, I have holes all in the front yard and a natural area. I have found a few small trees cut just below the top surface. I believe it must be voles. Is that what you suspect? How do I get rid of them? Thanks for your reply.

Anne Clapp: It does sound like voles. You can usually see the small teeth marks on the stems of the plants that were destroyed. A good outdoor hunting cat will help keep the vole population in check. The poison Rozol is approved for use in North Carolina to kill voles. You may also use mouse traps. Traps baited with apple and peanut butter seem to work well. Place the traps near one of the holes and cover the trap and hole with a large flower pot or other container to make a dark place for the trap in the daytime.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have three rose bushes in my yard. They bloom beautifully for a while. Then black spots and yellow leaves follow until the rose bushes become skimpy. I am ready to dig them up and throw them on the heap pile. I like roses, but my patience with them have come to an end. Is there a rose bush that requires little care? I'll provide soil, water, and fertilizer - no more spraying. I am tired of spraying and cleaning up the leaves that fall; however, they do seem to recover by the next blooming season. Should I just leave them along and let nature take its course?

Anne Clapp: Black spot seems to be part of growing roses in this part of the world. The hot humid summers make growing healthy roses without spraying almost impossible. The hybrid teas and floribundas that we like for repeat bloom throughout the summer usually get blackspot by their second flush of bloom in the summer. I have grown the floribundas Scentimental and Sunsprite without spraying but most of the others do need a fungicide every week. The new groundcover rose Knockout is also supposed to be blackspot tolerant.

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Question: My peonies didn't bloom. This plant--"Sarah Bernhardt" I believe is the name--has been in the ground for several yrs. and has never bloomed. It gets quite a bit of sun. The foliage looks great. I mulch in the summer and uncover in the winter. I see "eyes" I think it's called coming up early every yr. and I put out lime in the fall and an all purpose fertilizer in Mar. but still I get no blooms. How come?

Anne Clapp: Stop the fertilizer. If peonies are in good soil, have plenty of sun and are watered well they don’t need a fertilizer with much nitrogen. A little super phosphate in February might help but I don’t fertilize mine with much nitrogen. I do use composted cow manure on the plants after they bloom.

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Question: Dear Ms. Clapp, Any advice on getting Nellie Stevens Hollies to grow quickly. I fertilize spring and fall with Hollytone. Thanks.

Anne Clapp: Fertilizer, sun and water usually do the trick with Nellie. The first year in the ground may not produce much growth as the plant puts in a root system but after that the plant usually grows quickly.

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Question: My oakleaf hydrangea has quite a few blooms but the foliage is very droopy. I give it plenty of water but the leaves still look so limp. I thought this was a somewhat drought tolerant plant. This plant is several yrs. old and has bloomed before but the leaves have never looked this limp. What's wrong?

Anne Clapp: Hydrangeas tolerate heat but they don’t like it. If the plant is in afternoon shade it still droops when the temperatures are in the high eighties or above. The big leaves have so much surface area they allow a lot of water to evaporate. That makes the leaves droop. If we have another week without good rain you may need to water the plants.

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Question: Mushrooms are growing in my indoor potted plants, how do I get rid of them?

Anne Clapp: The mushrooms are harmless. Just pull them out of the soil as they form or find some small tool to rake them out if you don't want to touch them.

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Question: Hi Anne, I was hoping you could tell me what time of year to cut back my gardenia bushes. They are approx. 6-7 feet tall and right beside the deck. They are blooming beautifully now and did not know if I could wait until the fall when it is cooler to do this. I just need to shape them up a bit. Thanks for your help. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: I prefer to prune my gardenias just as they finish their first bloom in the spring. The new growth then has a chance to harden off before the first cold spell in the fall. By pruning in the fall or winter you have a chance of losing your bloom in the spring.

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Question: I saw on your website that if you use different chemicals you can change the color of a Hydrangea plant. Is there a limit on the number of times you can do this? Also, is there a way to make a multi-colored Hydrangea plant? What kind of sunlight is the best- direct all day or just a little sun during the day? Does this chemical treatment work for any other plants?
Thanks, Lori from Durham

Anne Clapp: The information on changing color in hydrangeas is specific to hydrangeas. It does not work for other plants. White hydrangeas stay white whether the soil is acid or basic. Blue hydrangeas keep their blue color in soil that is acidic. You can make the soil more acidic by adding ammonium sulphate or you can add aluminum sulfate to intensify the blue color. Red or pink hydrangeas keep their color in soil that is closer to neutral or more alkaline. It really doesn’t work to try to change red hydrangeas to pink or vice versa. The flowers get to be a muddy purple and never do return to their original color. Hydrangeas do not like hot afternoon sun. They can stand a bit of morning sun but in this climate they seem to do well with some light shade during the heat of summer.

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Question: Dear Anne, I'm still awaiting an answer about the black spot on my gardenia bushes. They are approximately 3 years old and have beautiful blooms, with the exception of the two that are covered with black "yuck" all over them. The leaves and the stems are covered. I want to save them, but I'm sure I know how. Please Help!!!!!!!!!!!

Anne Clapp: I have answered several questions about the black sooty material on gardenias. It is sooty mold that is usually caused by an early infestation of aphids or white flies that leave a sweet secretion on the plants. This decomposes and leaves the black sooty material. The easiest way to treat the problem is to spray the plant with insecticidal soap. Leave the spray on for 20 minutes and then wash it off with a steady stream of water from the hose. Gardenias are often attractive to aphids and white flies. You may spray with an insecticide to kill the insects or you can use one of the yellow sticky traps that organic gardeners use to attract the insects. They fly into the sticky tape and are glued to the surface so they don’t do damage to the plants.

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Question: Please tell me what is the proper way to start another Iris from the huge seed pod that forms at the top of the plant. I have several pods from my Iris's that have bloomed in the spring and now am trying to find the correct way to start another plant. I already know how to divide the Iris's, it is only the seed pod that I am curious about and want to learn if it can be done. Thank you so much for your wisdom on this subject. I enjoy your information on channel 14 when I can catch it. - Wilson, NC

Anne Clapp: I allow the seed pod to mature on the plant. It will turn brown during the summer and the pod will show signs of splitting. Cut the seed pod off before it splits open and the seeds are blown by the wind or eaten by birds. I put the seeds in a plastic bag and leave them in an area that is cool, dark and dry until the fall. I plant mine in an area outside where I remember to water the soil if we have a dry winter or spring. The seeds need at least 6 weeks of cold temperatures to germinate. Some gardeners start the seeds indoors by putting the seeds in the refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks then planting them in a soilless mix as you would any other seeds. You have no idea what color or blossom type the plant will be until it blooms the first time. It may not resemble the parent plant at all.

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Question: Anne, Why are there small white spots on my newly planted tomatoe plants? What should I do? Julia D.

Anne Clapp: Some small white spots on tomatoes are white flies that are taken care of by insecticides such as malathion or by using yellow sticky traps to attract and catch the insects. Spider mites also cause white spots on foliage. I just wash the mites off the leaves with a strong spray of water. I don’t use chemicals on food but it is safe if you follow the directions about using the sprays on vegetables.

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Question: Hi, I live in the Wilmington area-we planted 2 -7' cleveland pear trees about 2 years ago-they haven't done a lot of growing -is there a special fertilizer we should be using? Also these trees are planted about 12' apart -one of the trees seems to be fine but the other trees leaves are turning brown as if there is some sort of fungus. Do you have any information on this.

Anne Clapp: I am always concerned when leaves on pear trees are turning brown. Pears are bothered by a disease called Fire Blight. The leaves and stem of the plant start turning dark brown or black at the tip of the stems. The step tip will curve much like a shepherd’s crook. One method of control is to prune out the infected areas of the plant cutting about 10 inches below the brown area. Clean the clippers after every cut to keep from spreading the disease. One way of helping plants avoid being infected with fire blight is to reduce their intake of nitrogen so do not use fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. Fertile soil and good leaf mulch around the plants are usually enough to keep the plant healthy and blooming.

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Question: Did I read years ago about using Epsom Salts in the soil in tomato plants? If so, what does it do for the plants? Thanks very much. - G Casey

Anne Clapp: Epsom salts are a source of magnesium for plants. The most common use in the garden is on roses where gardeners use it in late winter to force new bud breaks from the graft union on older roses. I don’t use it on my tomatoes. The one soil additive that is really necessary for tomatoes in acid soil is lime.

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Question: Anne, Several years ago we planted wax mytrles for privacy and they have not done well. There is a 6' privacy fence directly behind 3 of them but they get plenty of sun. They are 8-9' tall and extremely spindly offering no privacy at all above the fence. Should I prune them back in hopes of thicker new growth?? If so, how low and can I do it now in June 04? I have not fertilized them or really tried much maintenance --- your advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike

Anne Clapp: Wax myrtles will grow in sun or shade. They like a moist, acidic soil that is mulched with leaves or bark. They need watering during dry spells in the summer. They do not like lime and are not that fond of fertilizer. Pruning will help keep them in shape and pruning does encourage new growth. With the sunny location I would suspect like of moisture may be the reason for their slow growth in your yard.

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Question: What herbs are best to plant with your vegetable garden that helps "repel" bugs? Thank you.

Anne Clapp: Tansy and marigolds are probably the two plants used more frequently to repel insects in the vegetable garden. Garlic is also used.

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Question: Dear Anne, Thank you for all the great tips and information that you have shared with us on News 14. I have a red plant in a container that is red in color, has two inch leaves with darker stripes and, was told that it could be one of these common names: Roosters comb, chickens gizzard, Roosters tongue. Does any of these names sound familiar ? Thank you for your time. - Donna T., Raleigh

Anne Clapp: Another common name for your plant is probably cockscomb. The botanical name is Celosia cristata. It is a tender annual that many people dry in the fall to use for flower arrangements. There are always spectacular ones at the North Carolina State Fair each year.

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Question: Ms. Clapp, I planted carnations year before last and this year had a bounty of flowers to cut. I had no previous experience with carnations and now that they are blooming is it safe to move them and plant elsewhere? - Florence G.

Anne Clapp: Carnations do not always like our hot humid summers. I have always transplanted them in the fall or very early in the spring before they bloom. Make sure they are in an area with very good drainage because they do not like wet feet. They also need lime to reduce the acidity of our natural clay soil. While it is not the full florist’s carnation I have enjoyed growing the single carnation, Dianthus x ‘Bath’s Pink’.

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Question: Hello Anne, Got a problem with two pomegranates-one ornamental and one fruit bearing. Neither has put on any growth this spring. They are as bear as they were during the winter. However neither appear dead. The limbs are very supple and when scratched beneath the bark the under layer is green. Both have been in the ground for 3 years and have performed well until this year. They have always been slow in putting on growth, but never this slow. Any thoughts- I'm beginning to think they are terminal.

If you think they need to be replaced whats a good small tree (8-12 feet) that will grow with a southern exposure (hot and dry) blooming plants preferred.

Thank you for all your wonderful help.

Anne Clapp: I wouldn't give up on the pomegranates just yet. They may have had a problem with temperatures that were a bit too cold one night and killed the early leaves. There is usually a later leaf set that will come out in due time.

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Question: I have a front lawn of hybrid bermuda grass in the front yard and it is doing fine, but underneath is becoming a green moss that is starting to take over the yard. What can be causing this moss and how do I get rid of it without harming the grass. The grass is about 1 1/2 inches kept mowed and I water 2 times per week. I am getting really concerned about all this moss! Help! Thanks! - Alan

Anne Clapp: Moss usually occurs when soil in a yard is compacted, when there is not enough sun, when there is not enough fertilizer and when you have not applied enough lime to raise the pH of the soil. The usually way to get rid of moss in the lawn is to core aerate the lawn, then apply lime and fertilizer. Bermuda does well mowed to short lengths between 1 and 1.5 inches. You may be applying too much water to the lawn as well. That removes some of the nitrogen that would discourage the moss.

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Question: I have a Torenia plant that was in full bloom when I purchased it. It has stopped blooming but has some very small bloom "pods" on it but they don't seem to be growing or blooming again. What do I do to make this plant bloom again. It gets some morning sun and fairly bright light the rest of the day. I enjoy your segment on T.V. and also the section on the web "For Your Garden". - Jean C., Farmville

Anne Clapp: I am not sure whether what you are seeing on your Torenia or wishbone plant is an unopened bloom or a seedpod from the blooms that were on the plant when you purchased it. I have always deadheaded blooming plants to keep them going for the summer. Just snip off the blooms as they fade and fertilize with a slow release fertilizer or a liquid fertilizer for blooming plants to keep new growth forming. Just to be on the safe side you could try cutting some of the pods you see off and leave others. Fertilize the plant lightly and keep it watered and look for a new set of blooms in a week or two.

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Question: Anne, I have several large (20-25 foot) Lelands. One has recently fallen over. The root ball simply pulled out of the ground. Is this a common issue with the Leland? I have seen other Lelands on the golf courses and so on that are leaning or fallen as well. What can I do to prevent more tree loss? - Andy

Anne Clapp: When Leyland cypress fall over as you describe it is because they were not planted properly. When a root ball pulls out of the ground it usually means the roots did not get placed in good contact with the soil when they were planted. Soil needs to be packed around the roots and watered in well. Also, large plants should be staked to keep them upright until they have started putting on new root growth. Many of the large plants I have seen topple over had a root system that kept growing in a circle around the base of the plant either because they had been crowed in plastic pots at the nursery or because they were balled and burlap plants packed in a plastic burlap film that did not degrade and allow the roots to grow into the soil.

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Question: Hi Anne, My backyard used to be fescue grass but burmuda grass has about taken it over so we decided to stop fighting it and let it take over. My question is when do you fertilize it? Also, I have some 16-4-8 fertilizer, can I use it? Thanks, Ray

Anne Clapp: Your 16-4-8 fertilizer will work just fine on the Bermuda grass. It is usually fertilized in early May and again every 6 weeks until August.

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Question: I have black leaf on my gardenia bushes.It is on the stems as well. We sprayed them with Ortho Malathion Plus, and Ortho RosePride Dease Control. The plant looks pretty sad- the stems are limp, but the blooms are lovely. I don't want to lose the bushes--can you help? Thanks, Deanie R.

Anne Clapp: I think your plant has something we call sooty mold. It forms when aphids and other insects get on the plants and leave a sugary substance behind that causes a black residue on the leaves and stems. I have sprayed an insecticidal soap on sooty gardenias, left it on for no more than 30 minutes and then washed the plant off with a spray from the hose. That usually removes enough of the sooty deposit to make the leaves look better and perk up a bit. It would not surprise me that your gardenia leaves look a bit limp in this weather. It has been hot and dry and the new growth sulks a bit every day. If we don’t have rain you may need to water the plant for a week or so to allow the new growth to develop.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have some carissa hollys in my foundation plantings and need to know how to prune them in order to control/reduce their size. I started to prune out individual branches and it seemed to be adversely affecting their shape. Do I shear them in order to keep the round shape? Thanks. Amy

Anne Clapp: Carissa Holly does not have a naturally round shape but you can keep it pruned that way for many years if you combine the two techniques you mentioned. To reduce the size of the plant and provide new healthy growth that will keep the plant in good basic shape for many years continue to remove the limbs to reduce the size of the plant. This also thins out the interior of the plant so the next step in pruning won’t produce a lot of dead growth. The second pruning step is after the plant has been thinned and cut back by removing limbs trim back the tip growth that remains to produce the round green meatball that people seem to like for shrubs.

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Question: Hi Anne, If I want to remove a couple of branches growing from the trunk of a jade plant to generate new plants would I just plant them directly back into the soil or is there something else I should do before that? I haven't had very good luck with jades and I was really hoping to do this right this time. Thanks for your help. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: I’m not sure how large the branch is on your jade plant. You may be starting with a stem that is too large. I start with a stem that is about ¼ inch diameter. Break it off the main plant and allow the stem to stay in a warm area out of direct sunlight for two or three days to callus over. Then put the stem into a moist mixture of sand and peatmoss to root it.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have well water. My plants seem to not grow or die easily. I do everything I know how and even ask others for their opinion as well. My girlfriend gave me a small bamboo shoot in a small glass cup. She said all I do is water it and give it light. She has about 10 of them in her home and they are cute so she gave me one. Within a month the stem is brown and has an odor in the water. I have it in my kitchen on the window sill. It gets light but everyday it becomes more and more brown. So today my husband cut the shoot in half and I stuck it outside so the rain water can fill up the glass cup it is in. Could my well water be the problem for all my plants? If so, what can I do other than buy water?

Thank you for your prompt attention to this matter.

Sincerely,
AJ

Anne Clapp: First, “lucky bamboo shoots” do not like to be in direct sun. They turn brown and die. Keep it in an area that has good light but not direct sun. If your well water is safe to drink it should be safe for plants. The problem may be in not knowing exactly how much water a plant needs. They could be over watered, underwatered; they may not have the right amount of light or the fertilizer could be the wrong amount. Not all plant like the same amount of water, light and fertilizer.

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Question:Dear Anne, I have two herbaceous peonies that were here when I moved into our house 5 years ago. I don't know the varieties, but one is deep bright pink with ruffled edges and the other is white, and doubled. They have bloomed profusely (especially the white one) for the last five years - with between 12-14 blooms. This year, the white peony only had 5 blooms and the pink, while having 8 or so, was much less than in previous years.

I don't have any way of knowing exactly how old the plants are - they are in full sun, and well-drained soil. They are early bloomers, so the hot summer sun hasn't seemed to damage them. What do I need to do to encourage more blooming next year? - Leslie

Anne Clapp: The trick to keeping peonies blooming is low levels of nitrogen fertilizer, water and mulch to keep the roots cool in the summer. Remove the mulch for the winter and don’t let the soil build up over the roots. The eyes on the roots should not be much more than an inch below the soil in the Raleigh area. Sometimes plants do bloom profusely one year and don’t bloom as profusely the following year.

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Question: I purchased 3 scuppernong grape vines in early spring. Two females, and a self fertile.

Unfortunately, I never got around to planting them until now. Everywhere I read that you should plant and then cut back to three or four buds. My plants have established significant growth in the pots, and they are now about 2.5 feet tall. I do not see anything low on the stem that resembles a bud.

So my question is, if I put them in the soil now, what is the best approach to take to pruning them for the rest of this year?

I am going for a 2 line trellis.

Thanks, Mark

Anne Clapp: At this time of year I would just go ahead and plant the grapes. Keep them well watered for the summer and do your pruning in late February. You may want to order the NC Extension publication on taking care of Scuppernong grapes. It has good pruning instructions.

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Question: My boss' garden has fungus on her hybrids - it looks like a gray cloudy coating. Can you advise? - Meri Beth

Anne Clapp: The grey cloudy coating on the hybrid tea roses is probably a powdery mildew fungus. I use the fungicide Immunox to control it. The plants should be treated with a fungicide for blackspot in this area of the country but many of them are not good at controlling powdery mildew.

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Question: Last year I planted a garden and it was a disaster. I never know when to water or when to pick the vegetables. This year I have planted okra, cucumber, tomatoes, melons, and summer squash. Can you help me before I get too far into the season? I made a 4' x 8' raised garden, put in potting soil, made three rows (spaced per the instructions with the plants) and have watered every other day with my sprinkler system for about 20 minutes. The garden gets good morning & day sun but no late afternoon sun. Thank you, Ginger

Anne Clapp: I suggest you contact the local cooperative extension office and ask for a copy of their brochure on the home vegetable garden. It has good information on watering, lime, fertilizer and general care of vegetable plants. The garden should produce as long as it has 6 hours of full sun. Use a good mulch on top of the ground to keep the moisture from evaporating and keep the weeds from growing. The best time to water is in the early morning.

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Question: Hi Anne, I live in Md. I would like to plant something that could give me privacy from my neighbors and a
better view to look at. The back fence is about 50 feet long. I was thing about arborvitae hedges. I reaaly only need the plants to grow to about 8-10 feet tall. I would have to caree for them myself so low maitenance is important. I also thought about lilacs but I don't know of they would be able to provide the
privacy. Any information would be appreciated. Thank you, Robin

Anne Clapp: Arborvitae will work as will Chinese Juniper and English Laurel.

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Question: Everywhere last spring and summer there was flooding in the Fayetteville area. In Eastover, my yard was under 4" most of the summer, especially during the heavy rains. The water does drain off, but only after pumping with a sump pump. Now over half of my Leland evergreens and half of my azaleas have died. Could this be from the flooding? Should I move these plants to higher ground? Thanks, Ginger

Anne Clapp: You probably have had damage to your azaleas and leyland cypress from high water if they had that much water over the roots. I would certainly move plants to higher ground but you will want to wait until fall to move them. It is too hot and dry in the summer to make moving plants safe at this time of year.

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Question: Anne, We are trying to remove a 5-year old wysteria vine and have cut down to the stump. Can we treat the stump with something to make it rot rather than trying to dig out the root? Thank you. Shirley F.

Anne Clapp: It is hard to kill a wisteria by just cutting it down. You will probably have to spray the plant with Roundup. I have had success by cutting the plant off at ground level and immediately painting the trunk with a Roundup concentrate before the cut heals over.

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Question: Ms. Clapp: My Husband and I have Leland Cypress trees 5 to 7ft. tall and we have the following questions:

1. What time of the year do you prune them?
2. How to get them roughly the same height?
3. How to make them fuller?
4. Do they need fertilizer?

Note: We bought them when they were around 3 to 4 ft. tall and they have been in the ground for 18 months. Thank you for any advice or information you can give.

Sincerely, Charlie and Jamie W. of Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: Leyland cypress can be pruned to get them in shape in late February or early March before thay start to put on new growth. If there is just a bit of trimming needed on new growth, that could be done as late as mid-May. It is hard to get a row of Leylands exactly the same height because you don’t want to prune the central leader at the top of the tree. It distorts the shape of the plant. You could pinch the new growth at the top of the plant removing about 1/3 of the new growth in the spring and fertilize the shorter plants but not the taller ones. A light clipping of new growth on the sides of the plant will make the plant fuller but they usually fill out without pruning as they get older.

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Question: Hello, I saw your site online and I have a question. I live in Alabama, and I want to know if it is OK to put pine bark around tomatoes? Thank you.

Anne Clapp: I know of no reason not to use pine bark mulch around tomatoes. Make sure the plants have plenty of lime in the soil when they are planted to keep the soil closer to a neutral pH.

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Question: Anne, I have three established lilac bushes that fail to thrive. They are planted in an open area of my yard, semi-shaded by pine trees. The plants yield very few blossoms each year. Thanks, Kim J. of Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: I would make sure you apply lime to the soil every spring and keep the plants watered and mulched during the summer. They do not like our acid soil (common around pine trees) or our hot humid summers. Sometimes making sure they have afternoon shade helps.

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Question: I have a tree that I found growing wild on my property. It has leaves similar to a Hickory tree, but it blooms a white spiky bloom that smells so sweet. Do you have any idea what it could be or maybe point me in the right direction to finding out. I live in Lenoir, NC.; the foothills. - Tracy

Anne Clapp: You might have a locust (Robinia spp) tree. There are several that grow in North Carolina and they fit the general description.

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Question: I had my lawn reseeded last fall and some topsoil was added by the contractor. I have a beautiful lawn but lespedezia is showing up. There was none before thus I believe the seed were in the topsoil. Is there any spray which can be used without injuring the grass? - F. P.W

Anne Clapp: You could use a broad leaf weed killer labeled for use on lawns. Most manufacturers make a compound product with 2-4D and MCPP labeled for lawn weeds.

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Question: Where can I find a Jerusalem Cherry?

Anne Clapp: Jerusalem cherries are often sold as houseplants ay garden centers in the spring. Try some of the independent nurseries in the area that carry houseplants. Most of the large nurseries in Wake county have it in stock.

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Question: I have a large area where dwarf mondo grass has been planted for about four years. The grass, as you know, grows very slowly. Consequently I have a difficult time controlling weeds growing between the plugs. Are there any weed killers available that will not harm mondo grass? Thanks Paula

Anne Clapp: If you pull the weeds between the plugs and apply a preemergent weed killer in the spring and the fall it may help. Mulching around the mondo plugs will also help weed control.

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Question: Dear Anne, Twice I have planted about 18 holly shrubs in my front yard in hopes they would create a nice hedge about waist high or so that would give me a nice screen from the street. I wanted them to grow over and compliment an old rock wall that surrounds my entire front yard. The wall is about 12 inches high. Unfortunately almost all of the shrubs have died. My front yard is very hot and dry during the summer due to sun exposure and a large pen oak. I have installed a sprinkler system to help but the pen oak really soaks up the water. Anyway, I am hoping you can recommend a scrub or plant that is sun/heat tolerant that will give me the hedge or screen I seek. Anything you can recommend will be appreciated. Regards, Mike

Anne Clapp: There are several plants that might work in a very sunny, hot dry area. Before you plant anything I would recommend amending the soil with some organic matter such as composted leaves or finely shredded bark. It will help retain moisture in the soil. Also be sure to keep the plants watered during the first year they are in the ground and keep about two inches of mulch over the soil in the area that is planted. Some shrubs that might work are Glossy abelia, Japanese barberry, Dwarf Yaupon holly, cotoneaster and Ilex cornuta ‘Carissa (Chinese holly) and juniper.

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Question: Hi Anne, I purchased 7 bare root peach trees from the youth horticulture sale on carya dr. a few months ago. They were all planted in full sun approx 15 ft apart. I have watered them well and mulched to conserve water. I have also been following the spraying instructions. They all have leaves and until a few days ago all looked very well. One of the trees, which they are all about 2-3 ft tall, started looking a bit bad as the leaves are dying off. There doesn't appear to be any visible insect and the trunk and the few small branches it has looked fine. Now there is another tree that the leaves are starting to die and I am getting very concerned. This is my first attempt at fruit trees and was wondering if you had any idea what might be going on or if it is too late for 2 of my trees. I am worried whatever this problem is that it is spreading. Any advise would be very appreciated. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: It sounds like there is something wrong with the root system of the tree. When I buy bareroot trees I soak the roots in water for several hours before I plant them to be sure the roots are taking up moisture, I do not add fertilizer at the time of planting and I do not fertilize the plants until they have started to put on new leaves. Voles do eat peach tree roots so you may want to check around the roots to see if the plants have been eaten. My ornamental peach that has been in the ground for several years has suddenly died. The voles have eaten most of the root system. You may want to call the extension office to talk to the master gardener on duty to see what advice they may have. Their phone number is 250-1084.

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Question: Is there anything than can be used to neutralize the odor of Boxwoods?

Anne Clapp: I happen to be one of those gardeners who likes the odor of boxwoods and use it in Christmas decorations because of the fragrance. To the best of my knowledge there is nothing that neutralizes the odor of plants in the ground.

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Question: Dear Anne: I planted a forest pansy redbud recently, in a morning shade/afternoon sun site. It has grown a great deal of foliage that wilts under the sun. Should I move it to a shadier site? Cannas planted two years ago have plenty of foliage, but few blooms. I feed them once in the spring. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: Your forest pansy redbud probably does not like the hot afternoon sun. It seems to do better in an area of dappled shade. Early morning sun is ok. Try cutting out the fertilizer on the cannas. If they are grown in fertile soil they may be getting too much nitrogen from the fertilizer. That often causes lots of leafy growth but few blooms. They do well in full sun and seem to bloom better there.

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Question: When planting bushes and trees in the yard should anything be mixed with the soil to help it grow and what about when planting items in a planter? I was at the grocery store recently and was wondering about buying a type of soil with manure that the store had. I'm wondering if there's something that will aid in it's growth?

Anne Clapp: Most experts seem to think that it is best not to add anything to native soil when planting trees. The trick is to dig a wide hole so the roots can grow into the soil. The hole does not have to be deeper than the container the plant came in. Shrubs with fine root systems such as azaleas need to be planted in amended soil. Compost and small ground pine bark seem to work well in this area. I prefer to add manure as as separate amendment. That way I know how much extra nitrogen the plants are getting from that source.

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Question: Anne, I have never seen caterpillars on my roses and have no idea what to do about them. Is it better to pick them off than spray them? Awaiting your advice. Thank you. Shirley F.

Anne Clapp: If I ever saw caterpillars on my roses I would pick them off rather than spray them. If they are getting completely out of hand and destroying all the foliage you may have to resort to spraying. Sevin would be a good choice of spray.

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Question: Where can you get lithodora disusa? - Patricia

Anne Clapp: The last pot of lithodora came from Lowes. I found it at other area nurseries in past years.

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Question: Hi Anne, just wanted to ask if bags worms are romoved or killed will the damage done by the worms heal, I mean will new leaves grow? They are on my Leyland Cypress. Thanks, Paula

Anne Clapp: If damage from bagworms is done to the tips of stems the plants will recover by putting out new growth. Sometimes you need to do a bit of pruning to reshape the plant if the new growth is uneven.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have a white trellis located under shade trees. It gets very little sun. I planted a Carolina Jasamine to grow on it and it died. Could give me some suggestions what to plant there? I would like something that has flowers. It has good soil. I do not want ivey. I would like a vine with flowers if at all possible. Any suggestions would very appreicated. Thank you, Marie

Anne Clapp: Confederate jasmine, smilax, native honeysuckle, Clematis armandii and akebia will grow in the area you describe. The Carolina Jessamine should have grown in that area. It will grow and bloom in shade. You do need to keep the plants watered well when they are planted in the spring. Keeping them watered through the summer is often necessary. Make sure soil is amended well with organic matter to help roots grow in clay soil.

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Question: Hi, I have a hydrangea that I planted a couple of years ago but it has never bloomed. What can I do? - Denise

Anne Clapp: Hydrangeas usually bloom if they have enough sunlight to form buds. They like dappled light and don’t bloom well in deep shade. Plants that are early spring bloomers may have buds frost bitten by our late spring freezes. If you have seen brown tips on stems in late spring I would suspect that freeze damage is the culprit. The third problem with blooming is pruning. The hydrangeas that bloom in the spring usually bloom on wood that was produced during the summer of the previous year. If you prune the plants during the fall or winter you have removed the blooming wood on the plant. The usual rule is prune hydrangeas just after they finish blooming.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have a cutting from a jade plant that is 2 years old with 3 branches and approx. 8 inches tall. The trunk is supported because if you move the plant to water it I am afraid it will break as it will sway greatly. Will the trunk ever catch up to the weight and size of the branches? Thanks. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: The trick to getting the main trunk of a jade plant and its branches to grow in proportion is to pinch back the new stems to make them more compact. The plant will always be fairly brittle and as it ages it will drop stems when it is under drought stress.

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Question: Anne, there is a lot of English ivy growing in a large maple in my yard. I thought that if I cut it all around the base of the tree and pulled at it to detach it from the trunk, it would just eventually die. But no! I did this in September and it is still alive and well. Please tell me what is the trick to getting rid of English ivy in a tree. Thanks a lot, Brian

Anne Clapp: You have to be sure that every stem of ivy growing up the tree is cut at ground level and pulled off the tree as far up as you can pull it. Then cut the hanging branches on the tree as far up as you can reach. This makes sure all the strands are cut. Eventually the plant does die.

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Question: I know that I should leave the green foliage attached to let the bulb get the nutrients it needs for next year. However, I need to relocate some of my bulbs and possibly divide. I don't want to wait til summer because it is hard to find them. Would I damage them if I dig them up and relocate them now? Can they be divided and replanted now? If not, could I dig them up with foliage attached and put them in pots to replant for next year? I'm looking forward to your response and enjoy you every Saturday on WPTF. My favorite program so far was the one on birds and roses--my loves of nature. - Gayle

Anne Clapp: I think we have answered this question for others on the web site. There is no problem digging and dividing daffodils after they bloom in the spring. The trick is to leave the foliage on as long as possible.

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Question: We have fence posts (nine 6' posts that are 8' apart) in our yard and want to plant a vining plant (morning glory?) from seed so that it will grow up chicken wire we're going to attach. Is it feasible to think that from seed the plant will grow, or would you suggest that we use a plant (if so, what type) that has already started to grow? And at what point should the chicken wire be installed? - Maria

Anne Clapp: You make attach the wire to your posts any time and plant the seeds or plants later. Morning glories will grow from seed and cover a fence for the summer. A close relative of the morning glory is the Cardinal creeper which has a bright red bloom. Another morning glory relative is the Moonvine which has a large fragrant white bloom in the evening. All three seeds are available in local nurseries. You could also surprise your neighbors and grow cucumbers on the fence.

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Question: Dear Anne, Early last spring, I planted a saucer magnolia, "Yellow Bird." It was in bloom when I got it--yellow flowers. This spring, it again bloomed yellow, but now that all those flowers have faded, it is blooming again--this time magenta. Can you think of any explanation for this? If saucer magnolias were propagated by grafting, I could sort of understand it, but I am fairly sure that they are propagated by cuttings,
aren't they?

Incidentally, someone wrote to you a while back asking about tulip trees and whether they are related to azaleas. You guessed that they were asking about the tulip poplar, but I suspect they meant the deciduous magnolia soulangiana, which is also commonly called a tulip tree or tulip magnolia (at least around here). Thanks, Gretel

Anne Clapp: You are right to think that your yellow blooming magnolia is a grafted plant. Many of the ones I've seen in local nurseries are grafted because it is a faster way to get a large plant into the trade. I would suspect that the root stock is blooming now. My understanding is that you cut off the limbs that are producing the magenta blooms to keep them from dominating the grafted stock.

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Question: Hi Anne, We are trying to grow a hibiscus in a pot inside our house which gets 4-5 hours of sunlight thru the window. They are still inside but for sometime we are seeing some tiny beadlike (much smaller than smallest bead I have seen) insect or mite that are growing on the leaves. Mostly they stay on the underside of the leaves and their eggs look like almost dust on the top of the leaves. Could you tell us how we can take care of them ? Will they die when the plant is moved outside. Also is it right time to move the plant outside? Thanks, Neel

Anne Clapp: You may move your hibiscus outside when the nighttime temperatures are in the 50’s. You could move it out during the day when temperatures are above 60 but be sure to keep it in an area that does not get direct sun for a week or more because it needs to be reacclimated to the full strength of sunlight. I would suspect that you have a scale insect or a mealy bug on your plant. Sometimes spraying it with insecticidal soap will take care of the problem. I would take the plant outside, spray it with insecticidal soap. Leave the soap on for about an hour and then wash it off with a strong stream of water from the hose.

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Question: Anne, When is it time to divide daffodils? Thanks. - Nancy

Anne Clapp: I prefer to divide daffodils just after they have finished blooming. You dig the plants and remove any bulbs that you slice when you dig them and immediately replant them. Allow the foliage to remain until it turns brown. You could also wait until the foliage turns brown then dig and replant immediately but remove the foliage. I find digging daffodils when I can still se the foliage and know where to dig is much easier than waiting until fall to dig and divide which is what so many of the gardening books recommend.

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Question: I recently purchased two Boston ferns to hang on my front porch. Unfortunately, in getting them home, many of the fronds on one side of each plant got broken. Should I trim those off? Will the plants fill back out? Also, I bought hanging baskets for the ferns, the type that are a metal frame lined with coconut straw. Should I take the ferns out of their plastic pots and plant them directly in the liner? Thanks for your help, Mary

Anne Clapp: Trim the broken segments as neatly as you can. Just trim off at the spot where the frond was broken instead of removing the whole frond if that will make the plant look better. The ferns should be quite happy in a wire basket. Remove the fern from the plastic pot and make sure the roots are loosened at the edges so they can grow into the new pot. Add a bit of potting soil to the bottom of the liner and put the fern in place. Add soil around the sides as needed. Water the fern in well.

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Question: Good Morning, How do you trim overgrown boxwoods? Our property slops down and the boxwoods have grown so wide that it is almost impossible to reach to be able to trim the back of the boxwoods unless you get behind them and the front of the house. Thank you, Cecilia L.

Anne Clapp: Welcome to the world of keeping plants in order in front of a house. The correct way to trim box is to cut down in the plant taking out stem to a connecting branch. You can remove as much as one-third of the plant surface without damaging the plant. This reduces the height of the plant and opens the center so it can produce new growth. It also means you have to get to the back of the plant to make some cuts. Once you get the plants back in shape it may not be quite as hard to do.

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Question: Anne, Can Hawthorne bushes be planted at any time during the year? When can they be pruned? Thanks for all your great advice. - Cathleen S.

Anne Clapp: Plants that are container grown may be planted at any time during the year. The trick is to keep plants watered until they are established. When plants go in the ground in early summer in this area they may wilt from loss of water until a new root system is established. Sometimes a little shade from a temporary tent over the plant will help.

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Question: Thank you for replying to my question regarding the "smelly white blooming tree." Before I pay off on my bet to my granddaughter, is it possible the tree could have been a different tree than a Bradford Pear? The new owners have cut the tree down so I can't check out the leaves, but I don't recall that the tree had the leaves of a Bradford Pear, or that it have the rounded appearance. It seems it was more vertical and branchy. A friend suggested it might have been a female Ginkgo tree, but I would certainly take your opinion over hers and pay off on my bet if you don't have another suggestion. - Kathy

Anne Clapp: The leaf of the Gingko has a fan shape. It turns yellow in the fall and the leaves fall at one time. The plant just suddenly drops all it leaves.

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Question: Hi Anne, What trees could you suggest I plant over a septic drain field in a very sunny location? Any fruit trees? Thanks for your help. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: I have never been in favor of growing trees over a septic system drainage field. The root system is so large that it will interrupt the flow of water through the drainage lines. Grass and plants with very small root systems seem to be a better choice. I have seen beautiful flower beds over septic fields.

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Question: Anne, I have a lot of weeds in my periwinkle and pachysandra - something with tiny yellow flowers and also a strawberry leaf-looking vine. Is there something I can use to kill just the weeds? Also, when is the time to divide daffodils? Thanks, Nancy from Raleigh

Anne Clapp: It sounds as though you have wild strawberry weeds in your garden. The only way that I know to safely remove it is by pulling it out when the soil is moist. There is not a weed killer that knows the difference between periwinkle, pachysandra and wild strawberry.

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Question: Do gardenias need acid soil? How much sunlight do they need? I have a semi-shady spot on the east side of my home and it never gets direct sunlight but I was considering putting gardenias on that side. I'm not sure if they can survive there. Can you give me some advice? Thank you, Julie

Anne Clapp: Gardenias do like sun and acid soil. They seem to do well in southern exposures where they are protected from cold winds.

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Question: Hi Anne: I've had my camelia for a couple of years now and it is sick. It will always fill with buds but they rot and fall off before they even begin to open-up. Leaves are not really very green either, they are sort of brown. What could be wrong? Thanks, Jane from Charlotte

Anne Clapp: The brown leaves may be from too much exposure to sunlight. Camellias prefer living in dappled shade where they have good light but not hot afternoon sun. The problem with blooms may be cold damage. You might check with some of the camellia growers in the Charlotte area for advice on varieties that bloom well outdoors in that area. There is usually a camellia show in the area the first or second weekend in February. They usually have some knowledgeable growers to answer camellia questions.

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Question: I've seen alot of bamboo type plants around the charlotte area that are either, for someones yard, used for privacy or just growing wild along some creek and I would like to know were to find some so I can use it to border my property.Whats your take on this, I heard it grows very fast and is thick with year round green. - Dave

Anne Clapp: Bamboo is indeed thick and fast growing. If you don’t like your neighbors and want something that will take over their yard as well as yours you could plant it in this area. After fighting it coming up in a paved parking lot for several years I don’t recommend it. Some folks have had luck keeping it controlled by building a rather substantial underground container to keep it in place but you do have to be careful to see that it doesn’t escape the barrier.

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Question: This is my first year planting a garden in NC. On the 1st of April I planted tomatoes plants- unfortunately, only to lose them to the freezing weather this past Monday. When is the best time to plant tomatoes? Any help you can give me will be greatly appreciated. Erma S., Hope Mills

Anne Clapp: Tomatoes should not be planted until after the last frost date in our area. Our average last frost date in Raleigh is April 14 so there would be a couple of weeks after that for the late season frost that do occur. I have been told that April 22 is a good date although you can get an early start on the season by using some of the protective covers for tomatoes that would protect from frost after mid-April.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have several very large gardenia bushes and have noticed over the last week each plant has quite a few yellow leaves on it. The yellow leaves are located on the bottom third of each plant. Do you think this is normal or do you think I have a problem? Thank you for your help, Cathy

Anne Clapp: A gardenia plant usually loses about a third of its leaves each year. As long as the yellow leaves are on the parts of the stems closet to the base of the plant I would not worry. It is natural leaf drop.

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Question: Dear Anne, We recently sold our old house. There are several azalea bushes around the lot the I would like to try and get some sprouts off of to plant at our new home. There is also a blueberry tree that produces wonderful berries and a hydrangea plant that I would like to completely transplant. Any advice you can give me would be appreciated. Thank you, Jennifer C.

Anne Clapp: The first thing to do is to get permission from the new owners to remove any plants you want to take and get their permission to take cuttings for other plants. Transplanting is best done in the fall or late winter. Cuttings of azaleas are taken in June or July. Blueberries can be divided in the fall or cuttings made in the summer.

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Question: I have a jerusleum cherry plant and I am wanting to divide it to make more plants. When is the best time to do this and how to do it?

Anne Clapp: Jerusalem Cherry is usually propagated using the cherries or seeds from the plant. Allow the fruit to dry on the plant then remove the seeds and sow in a sterile potting medium. Don’t allow the soil to dry out. Keep them in a warm, light area. Germination will take over a month. After the seeds sprout put them in full light and after the second set of leaves develops repot them to separate small pots.

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Question: Hi Anne, We have a new house with a very sunny driveway. I would like to do some plantings along the driveway, shrubs and perennials, but I'm not sure what will do well. We are just north of Raleigh and have clay soil. Any recommendations? - Mary

Anne Clapp: Make sure you improve the condition of the clay soil by amending it with organic material such as composted leaves and manure. It will also need to have a bit of lime tilled in. Shrubs you might use are spirea, nandina, abelia, barberry, cotoneaster, yaupon holly, kerria, flowering quince, and small viburnums. Perennials for sun would include Sunny Border Blue veronica, Homestead verbena, coneflower, daylilies, the Knock Out roses, the smaller ornamental grasses, chrysanthemums, Stoke’s aster, Lamb’s ears and the sedums. There are lots of other plants that would work as well. Look at the display areas of some local garden centers to see what seems to be working well in the areas close to their paved parking lots and walkways.

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Question: I would like to know more about the care and maintenance of a tulip tree. Is it in the acid loving family of azaleas?

Anne Clapp: What I know as Tulip tree is Liriodendron tulipifera, also known as the tulip poplar. The tree is actually a member of the magnolia family. It is a very fast growing plant that has small yellow-green blossoms in the early spring. It seeds in very quickly so you do have to be careful to keep the seedlings pulled up around it. It does not seem to have serious care problems but it does lose limbs easily as it grows older so it can be a problem in areas with a lot of winter ice and strong winds.

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Question: Dear Anne: Wr recently had extensive loss of junipers along a slope in our front yard. Did the plants outgrow their root system or is there some disease to account for such a loss? Can you recommend an inexpensive and relatively fast growing ground cover to replace the junipers? Thanks! Frank

Anne Clapp: One reason for sudden juniper loss is poor root development when the plants are put in the ground. If roots are growing in a mat around the edges of the pot they are often so tightly twisted that they do not make their way out into the soil. It often happens when people are planting several plants at one time. They just get tired and don’t pay as much attention to getting the plants in the ground. Sometimes you have soil that is too dry on a sloped site. The water may rush over the surface of the bed and not soak down to the roots. Junipers often die back with improper pruning. Always make sure there is green growth left on stems that are pruned. You do not cut juniper stems back to an area where there are no green needles. I would suspect either of those conditions before I would expect a disease problem.

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Question: Hi Anne, I want to plant some evergreen trees and was wondering if you knew some that look like a traditional tree other than the columnar look of a Leyland cypress. They will be in full sun and planted on a slight slope for good drainage. Thanks for your help. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: Evergreen trees may have leaves or needles. If you are looking for trees with needles you might try Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana), Japanese cryptomeria (Cryptomeria japonica), or some of the pines. For trees with leaves you could try some of the hollies such as Emily Bruner, Nellie Stevens, Foster Holly, Savannah holly or Yaupon. Other trees with leaves are the southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora), the Chinese evergreen oak (Quercus myrsinifolia) or the Live oak (Quercus virginiana).

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Question: Hi Anne, I watch your show real often and enjoy you very much. Here is my question. How do you save a Dogwood Tree? - Connie Of Wake Forest

Anne Clapp: It depends on what you are saving it from. The native dogwood, Cornus florida, does have some health problems in part of its growing area and some plantsmen are suggesting that we try the oriental dogwood, Cornus kousa as a substitute. Mildew can be a problem with out native dogwood in this area. Spraying with a fungicide such as Immunox does seem to control the disease. To grow Cornus florida make sure it is in dappled shade, has good moist soil, a two-inch layer of organic mulch and keep it watered in the summer if we have a long dry period and high temperatures.

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Question: Where can I buy tomatoe plants and other vegatable plants to start a garden? Thanks, Mark

Anne Clapp: My favorite place to buy vegetable plants in the Raleigh area is the State Farmers Market on Lake Wheeler Road near the Lake Wheeler exit on I-40. Most garden centers carry vegetable plants during the correct seasons for planting.

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Question: I have just purchased a miniature rose bush. My plans were to plant it in a large cement pot with the intention of it staying outside all year. The pot will be placed in full sun at all times. I have no knowledge of miniature roses, would you please give me some tips on raising this type rose and let me know if my idea about the pot is a good idea or should the plant be placed directly in the ground.

Anne Clapp: Miniature roses will grow quite well in a pot and may be left outside all year. Make sure you use a good quality potting soil, fertilize the rose about once a month from April to August and be sure the pot is watered at least once a week. It will need water more frequently during the hot days of the summer. Cut the dead flowers off the plant to keep it blooming all season and mulch the pot well after we have our first frost.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have a question about dust mite-they seem to be infecting all our plants. We have tried spryaing insecticide (schultz'house plant insect spray) on the leaves and underside of leaves.But the mite seem to be back within hours.
Could you please suggest any remedy. Thank you, Sam

Anne Clapp: I am not sure what insect is infecting your plants. Often at this time of year the foliage of house plants may have a fine covering of dust and oil from being inside all winter. One trick that may work is to spray the plants with Insecticidal Soap. Leave the spray on the plants for about 30 minutes and the wash the plants. Some people just put the plants in the shower and turn the water on for a few minutes to wash the
insecticidal soap off.

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Question: Anne, I made the mistake of not reading before cutting. A house that we bought surprised us with the most gorgeous daffodils this spring. Immediately after the flowering, I cut the unsightly foliage. I understand now that this is not good. Is there anything that I can do at this point to help them bloom again next spring? Help, Julie

Anne Clapp: No. The damage for next year is already done and even with the premature cutting some flowers may appear. In November at the time you would be planting new bulbs put some bulb fertilizer over the area where the bulbs were planted and when the foliage comes up in late winter sprinkle a bit more. With luck you will have blooms year after next.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have a large azalea bush in my yard that has been blooming beautifully. Recently, while my friend was admiring my lovely azaleas, she broke off three portions that had several blooms on each stick. Within 2 days of this happening, all the blooms on the azalea bush began to form little spots on them, and within 1-2 days after that all the blooms were dead and fell off. Oddly enough the blooms on the side she broke off seemed to die first. At this time no new growth (blooms) appears to be forming. All the other azaleas in the yard are still going strong. Surely breaking off a few small branches wouldn't have caused this to happen. Why is the azalea bush losing all its blooms? The leaves look healthy still so far. Is there something I should to do make sure this doesn't happen again? Basically, what went wrong? -Crystal

Anne Clapp: There certainly should not be any connection between breaking blooms off an azalea and spots developing on the remaining blooms. The spots may be from insect damage or cold damage. Tender new growth often attracts insects and early blooming azaleas are often hurt by sudden late cold snaps. The plant should start putting out new growth within a month of blooming. As long as the leaves of the plant look healthy I wouldn’t worry.

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Question: Hi, Anne. Several years ago I was given an amaryllis in full bloom. Since that time, it has never rebloomed. I know it is still alive. What is the process for reblooming? Thank you, Susan.

Anne Clapp: Leave an amaryllis outside in good sun for the summer. Keep it watered and fertilize it with a fertilizer that contains more phosphorus than nitrogen. That means the middle number of the three on a fertilizer container is the higher number. In September turn the pot on its side so you don't water it and let the foliage die down. Bring inside before the first frost and keep it in a cool dry space. It does not have to be in sun light because you are letting the bulb go to sleep. When you see a bit of growth starting resume watering the plant and bring it into a good sunny area. It should bloom after Christmas.

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Question: How can I keep my poinsettias alive this summer?

Anne Clapp: They can go outside after all danger of frost is over. Keep them outside in full sun, but be sure they are kept watered. You will probably want to give them a bit of liquid fertilizer several times during the summer or you may use one of the slow release plant foods for blooming plants. The plant should come in before the first frost and you will want to start depriving it of light to make sure it has 12 hours of light and 12 hours of complete darkness so it will turn red for Christmas.

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Question: Part of the foliage on my boxwood bushes is turning brown and red color. What causes this? Is there anything I can do to stop it? Thank you.

Anne Clapp: Lots of boxwoods turn a reddish brown color during the winter. It appears to be a reaction to cold and not a disease. It usually disappears as the new foliage comes out. A small application of a slow release organic fertilizer may help put on new growth.

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Question: There are brown marks on the flowers of our white camellia what would be the problem please.

Anne Clapp: There are several causes of brown marks on white camellias. Cold damage is often a problem and the outside edge of blooms is often affected first. Dropping pinestraw or small twigs falling on blooms will bruise and discolor them. Old blooms often turn brown and remain on the plant. Some brown spots are caused by a fungal disease called petal blight. It is prevented by picking up all blooms off the ground and disposing of them because the disease overwinters in the ground and infects the plants the next year.

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Question: I want to plant Zoysia in our yard where Fescue has already been sown. This yard is about two years old and has an abundance of weeds, crabgrass and rocks. The lot had many small to medium pine and sweet gum trees which we have had removed, roots and all. I've raked and removed wheelbarrows of potato-size rocks.

I want to treat the yard with a pre-emergent to kill the crabgrass before I plant Zoysia. I used a post-emergent for the crabgrass and other weeds last fall, but I'm not sure what the best plan would be. I would love to go ahead with planting Zoysia this spring. Should I kill everything with something like Roundup now?

The ground needs some more leveling. Would it be better for me to just till all the ground and rake it smooth? I think I should kill everything before tilling. Is this the right thing to do? I don't want to make work for myself, but I want the work I do to not be wasted.

I've wanted a Zoysia lawn for a long time and was encouraged by hearing you say that you have Zoysia. Please tell me what to do to get started. Knowing that the expense may be greater with Zoysia, I don't want to make any mistakes. Should I sprig and if so, how do I go about this. I would like to do as much of the work myself as is physically possible. Is there a machine I could rent that plants the sprigs? How expensive is sodding? Would I have good results with seed? I have read about the different options. What would you recommend?

If I have success with the front yard, then I would want to do the same with the back and side yards.

Thank you, Doris

Anne Clapp: Zoysia makes a wonderful lawn when you have a sunny area. The most beautiful lawn would be produced if you killed off everything now with Roundup, waited 10 days and till the soil, rake it smooth and put in Zoysia sod. I didn’t do it that way because I did it myself and didn’t have the money to put in sod at the time. I killed off the weeds, tilled and added lime and super phosphate, raked the yard to even it up and then put in Zoysia plugs on eight-inch centers. I put in the first row with each plug eight inches from the last. On the second row I started eight inches from the last row and staggered the plugs so they were between the plugs on the previous row. After I watered the zoysia in well I spread a light covering of straw between the plugs. I used an organic lawn fertilizer at the time of planting. The plugs were put in the ground the third week of April. I waited until new growth had started on the zoysia before I put out pre-emergent weedkiller. In the fall I lightly raked the area and put out a fall pre-emergent for cool season weeds. We started with a small area of the lawn and after it got started we took plugs from the existing lawn and enlarged the lawn area.

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Question: Hello, Anne - I have Happy Returns and Stella D'ora daylilies. The first 2 yrs they bloomed all sumer long. Now they bloom and then produce a seed pod. I've removed the seed pods in the past but the plants rarely bloom again that year. They get sun from about 9am - 2pm. If there's been no rain, I will water that landscape area for about 45 minutes/week. How can I get my daylilies to bloom all summer again? Thanks. Nancy

Anne Clapp: Reblooming daylilies seem to bloom more frequently when you divide them every other year. I divide mine in the fall and replenish the phosphorus fertilizer at that time. After they bloom the first time, remove the bloom spike and give them a little fertilizer to produce more growth.

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Question: Hello and thank you for giving me an opportunity to maybe get my question answered. I have spent many hours on my computer, on the internet, researching blueberry bushes. I know there are 120 types and about 1 1/2 weeks ago, I was on a site, now unknown, that had photos of different types of blueberry bushes. There was a huge difference in these bushes because the berries were not round, but tubular!!! I would love to know if you know about these or have a link to them. I recall seeing at least 2 different types, maybe even 3 or 4. Thank you, Carol

Anne Clapp: Two types of blueberries I know of have fruit that is not round. One is Vaccinium elliottii, a 6-12 foot tall plant native to the southeast from Georgia to north Florida. The fruit is edible but not as tasty as some others. The other plant is Vaccinium stamineum or "Deerberry" that has fruit that is sort of pear shaped. It seems to have fruit that is not very tasty to humans. You might try Woodlanders Nursery, a mail order nursery in South Carolina as a source for the plants.

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Question: A business we once visited had a tree with blooms similar to a Bradford Pear Tree. However, this tree put out a terrible odor similar to a dead animal. My granddaughter is convinced that every tree she sees with white blooms will stink. Can you please tell us the name of the stinky tree? - Kathy

Anne Clapp: Bradford pear. One of the things that I dislike about the tree, in addition to the brittle wood which breaks in ice storms and the messy little pears, is the odor that many of the trees have. I prefer flowering peaches and cherries or crabapples as a substitute.
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Question: Anne, Are you available for paid consultations? We are planning to landscape our backyard and need a professional to help us to develop a plan. Thanks for your reply, Van and Terrie from Hillsborough

Anne Clapp: Sorry, but I don’t do private consultations and I am not a professional landscaper. I would check with nurseries in your area to see if they have a recommendation for a landscape consultant that would be able to help you.

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Question: Anne, Is it true that a popular slow release organic fertilizer is made from Horsehoe Crabs? It's my understanding that this animal is critical in the survival of millions of shore birds that eat its eggs during their migration on the East Coast and that commercial harveting is depleting the supply. I use these products, and now I feel like I've found a rat in the woodpile. - Joseph

Anne Clapp: Several organic fertilizers contain the shells of horseshoe crabs. It was my understanding that the shells used were the discarded shells swept from the beach rather than those harvested from living animals. The loss of crab population might be from over-population of birds eating all the eggs.

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Question: Anne, I was pruning wax myrtles today and noticed a strange pattern on several of the branches. It was a series of small rectangles circling the branch with three to five rows of them. Can you give me any information on what it might be and if there is something we must do? Thank you. We always enjoy listening to you. Shirley F.

Anne Clapp: Squirrels will sometimes make the type marks you describe and there are birds that peck in an orderly pattern in search of sap. Keep an eye on the plant and if the limb starts to lose leaves prune below the series of marks.

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Question: Hi Anne, I planted some iris bulbs last summer that were given to me as gifts. They produced the spiked green leaves through late summer and into fall. When is the correct time to prune/cut the foilage back? Have I waited too long? Thanks, Tonya

Anne Clapp: Old dead foliage from iris gets removed in the fall when the new foliage comes out. Leave the green foliage in place. That will produce the blooms for this spring. When leaves turn brown this summer remove them, but never remove foliage when there is water on the surface. That spreads diseases.

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Question: Hi Anne, We see Bradford Pears flowering all around us, but of our four trees, only one is flowering. The other three went directly into leaf production. What can we do to encourage all of them to flower next spring? Thanks, Joe and Ramona

Anne Clapp: You need to figure out what conditions are different for the four trees in your yard. The trees need sun for bloom production. Too much nitrogen fertilizer produces new growth at the expense of bloom production so if three trees are where they get more run-off from the lawn that may be the problem.

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Question: Hi Anne! Is it too late to prune back my butterfly bush? I'd really like to because it looks really weathered and dry. It has new growth on it already and I don't want to harm it...What do you think? Thanks, Tonya

Anne Clapp: Butterfly bushes can be pruned during the spring as the plant blooms on new growth. The longer you postpone cutting the plant back the later your first bloom will be. Butterfly bushes may be cut back during the summer if they get too large and they will continue blooming until frost.

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Question: Anne: Hi! I was wondering if you would by any chance know what brands of lawn fertilizer contain the Barricade or Dimension pre-emergent crabgrass preventative? I have heard this is the best stuff to control crabgrass, but I am having a hard time finding it. Thanks, Karen B. from Cincinnati, Ohio

Anne Clapp: My suggestion is to apply the crabgrass preventive as a separate material. Use Barricade or Dimension alone. That way you know exactly how much material you have applied to your lawn.

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Question: Please tell me whether my newly planted 5 gal. Camelia is deer resistant here on the Northern California coast. Thank you, Tom

Anne Clapp: My camellias are not deer resistant in North Carolina and I don’t think California deer have very different tastes. My advice is to teach them early that you new plant is not tasty by using one of the foliar sprays that discourage browsing. Deer Solution seems to work in this area but check with local nurserymen for their recommendations.

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Question: Dear Anne, I live in Clayton and my yard is nothing but red clay. We have some grass in our yard but there are so many bare spots. We reseed every year and some grows but so much is still bare. Can you tell me the best typye of seed to put down? We also have bird feeders and they knock alot of seed out and that grows very well. I may be crazy but I told my husband to plant bird seed this year instead of grass seed. Please help me grow a pretty green yard. (Most of all the yard is in full sunlight all day.) Thanks, Andrea

Anne Clapp: Have you thought about using Bermuda or Zoysia grass instead of fescue? Bermuda can be gown from seed but Zoysia is usually sprigged. Either should grow well in full sun and can be planted in the spring. Fescue is best planted in September.

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Question: I bought an oleander bush 5 years ago at a beach area nursery and it has grown very little. It has remained green all this time, but still hasn't flowered. It gets full sun and is watered quite frequently. Could you please give me some advice and tell me why it hasn't flowered yet? - Wanda

Anne Clapp: If the oleander is still green it should be healthy enough to bloom. Sometimes plants grown from seed are slow to bloom and the plant you have may be a seedling plant. You might also try some fertilizer for flowering shrubs this spring. April 15 would be a good time to fertilize oleander in the Raleigh area.

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Question: What would be the best shade trees to plant near (about 20 to 25 feet from) our septic lines? We heard about the black tupelo/sour gum tree. Would it be suitable? Or are there other trees with moderate to fast growth? Thanks, Fran M.

Anne Clapp: The major problem with Nyssa sylvatica is its long tap root system which might pose a problem to your septic system. The tree is a beautiful tree and the early bright red foliage makes it a wonderful plant for moist areas. Smaller trees that do not have as large a root system might be better for a site that close to a septic line. Crape Myrtle, fringe trees, Chinese pistache, Okame cherries, flowering apricots, Parrotia and smoke trees are possibilities Yaupon hollies also do well in this area.

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Question: Hi Anne: We just moved into a house in North Raleigh with 5 acres of land. I tilled up two plots of area for a vegetable garden, one for tomatoes, cucs, etc. the other for maybe corn. The soil broke loose very easy with the tiller and the soil looks great. However, about 5-7 inches down, I ran into red clay. In the edge of the woods are two nice sized piles of hardwood tree mulch, I’m guessing to be a couple of years old. It is very dark and wet all the way through. Can you tell me if I should work this mulch into the soil and/or get other ingredients to work in? of course, the mulch would be nice because its free!!!

Thanks for any tips you can offer. Happy gardening. Brian H. --Raleigh

Anne Clapp: Old dark moist woods chips make a wonderful mulch to till into the garden. Amended red clay makes a wonderful soil for growing vegetables, just make sure you add lime. Next fall when you clean up the garden plot till all the leaves in the yard into the bed. They will be decayed by the time you plant in the spring.

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Question: Hi Anne, Help! Many of my daffodils do not have blooms this year.This is the second and third blooming season for them. I also have tulips planted in the same bed....is it likely that I will have the same problem with the tulips when it is time for them to bloom? The foilage for both appears to be strong and healthy. Thank you, Peggy

Anne Clapp: The usual reasons for daffodils not blooming are not enough sun, bulbs planted too close to the surface of the soil, bulbs were not fertilized the previous fall, foliage was not left on the bulbs after they bloomed the previous year. Daffodils do need to be divided every three or four years to bloom their best and the top of the bulb should be about 6 inches below the surface of the soil. Bulbs should be fertilized in late fall about the time new bulbs are planted or later about the time they first emerge in January. I use Holland Bulb Booster which is higher in phosphate than some fertilizers. Bulb foliage is not very attractive but you do need to keep it attached to the bulbs as long as it is green. I plant Daylillies and daffodils in the same bed so the daylily foliage comes in and covers the unsightly daffodil foliage. As for the tulips, they often do not bloom more than one year in this area. They do not like our hot humid summers and mild winters. Planting them deeper and using a groundcover over them in the summer and planting them where they do ot get mid-day sun helps bulbs to come back for two or three years.

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Question: Hi Anne, There seems to be a sticky substance on the leaves of my ficus tree that is approx 3 feet tall. There are also small brown dots on some of the stems. When I scrape them off the brown cap gives way to a dry, whitish matter. Do you have any idea what this is and what I should do? I have had this tree for approx 2 years and this is the first time I have ever had this problem. As soon as the weather permits, hopefully in the next 3 weeks all of the house plants will be repotted and go outside for the spring and summer. So if I need to wait to do something until it is outside that would be alright. Thanks for all your help. -Cathy

Anne Clapp: I think the problem you have is a small insect called scale. It covers itself with a protective shell and is very difficult to get rid of. I have used a Q-tip and alcohol to rub the insects off. It will work if there are not too many. I used the Bayer spray insecticide on some orchids and had good luck with it. I sprayed the plants outside and hoped for the best because the label does not say it can be used on houseplants. You could also spray a ficus with an insecticidal oil spray. It would have to be done outside on a warm day.

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Question: Hello Anne, We recently cut a huge water maple and have a large pile of hardwood mulch. My husband wants to put this mulch around the blueberries, blackberries and grapevines. Is this a good idea? Thanks, Lucille

Anne Clapp: Ground hardwood mulch from your trees does work as a mulch if it is not tilled into the soil. The mulch will remove some nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes but I have used a little extra fertilizer on plants if they show signs of poor growth. Please keep the mulch away from the trunks of the plants so you won’t have a problem with voles eating the bark on the plants. Don’t pile the mulch more than two inches deep around the plants. Any chips left over may be left in a pile to compost over the summer. It would then be ready to till into a garden area in the fall.

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Question: Dear Ms. Clapp, With trowel in hand, I was about to spread three large buckets of wood ashes around my 3-year-old blueberry bushes, when I thought I'd better check to be safe. I've read and heard that blueberries like acid conditions and the ashes may be contrary to that. But it's so tempting because ashes do seem to help plants grown very nicely. Last year we put them on our raspberries and they seemed to have liked the ashes. Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Gudrun
P.S. I try never to miss a Weekend Gardener program!

Anne Clapp: You were right to ask before you spread the ashes. Blueberries like an acid soil so the ashes would make the soil too alkaline for the plants. Use the ashes on rose bushes, herbs, tomatoes and other plants that like soil with a bit higher pH.

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Question: Help an old guy out Anne, I have a small corner of my yard here in Rocky River, OH (Cleveland) that stays very wet after rain storms. We get a lot of rain here! I need a bush that sucks up the water, but won't get any bigger than the following area dimensions: three feet in diameter, six to eight feet tall. The area gets partial sun and faces west. Thanks a lot,
Soggy in Cleveland

Anne Clapp: My Ohio gardening knowledge is limited to what my mother grew in her yard in Cincinnati which is not quite as far north as Cleveland. Two plants which might work are Northern bayberry, Myrica pensylvanica, and Red-osier dogwood, Cornus sericea. The Ohio State extension service should also have some good suggestions.

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Question: My husband and I purchased a house last year. We have 2 blueberry trees in our yard. The trees was full of blueberry. But we didn't get a chance to get to eat any. The birds ate them all. What do I need to do this year. how can I keep the birds from eating them. Thanks, Nina

Anne Clapp: The only way I know to keep birds from eating blueberries in a home garden is to use a net covering for the bushes. Most garden centers carry a plastic mesh material called bird netting that is draped over the bush and tied down so that the birds cannot fly under the netting.

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Question: Hi Anne: I have a 20-25 foot weeping yaupon that suddenly broke off at the base. Not clearly broken through, but the break is 75% through the base. I think high winds whipped it down. Is there a way to stake it back in place and stimulate re-growth? I was thinking of heeping peat moss around the base after applying root growth to the exposed edges and then keeping moist. Any ideas to save this beautiful specimen? What would a plant like this cost for replacement? Thanks!

Anne Clapp: A weeping yaupon as large as the one you describe would be very costly to replace. There are smaller trees available and you may want to find a replacement to plant in the fall. Sometimes you can get a tree to repair itself by covering the break with grafting tape or wax and stabilizing the plant with stakes so it does not move. I think your plant is too large to be able to handle very easily. High winds may twist the tree enough to complete the breaking at the base. You might reduce the weight at the top of the tree by pruning it but it would be difficult to do on a tree that tall.

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Question: My two mature plum trees have developped several spots, that I think are a fungus on small limbs. As I go further in my yard, it looks as if the ornamental cherries have the same type fungus. It is brown and quite large and encircles the wood. It's hard and bubbly. Should I remove the fungus by pruning and/or spray the trees with a lime/sulphur spray now before they bloom? They are budding new growth now. Thanks, Holly

Anne Clapp: There is a black knot disease that gets on plum and cherry trees. The common control is to cut off all the infected twigs or limbs on the plants and get them off your property. The disease is very difficulty control with spray. You may have a boring insect rather than a fungus causing problems on your fruit trees. Gently pull or scrape the "fungus" material off the plant and see if there is an entry hole. If so use a thin wire and push it in the hole to fish out the larva that is causing the problem. A home orchard spray will also help in control of insects and diseases. You may want to take a sample of a stem with the disease or insect problem to a good local garden center or an extension service office for a diagnosis of the problem.

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Question: I was given tulips for Valentines from my husband. I have always loved them, but have never had any. What do I do with the bulbs and how do I plant them? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: Tulips that have been forced to bloom for Valentines seldom bloom again when planted outdoors. Tulips make their bloom for next year while they have their spring foliage. They need cool conditions, good light and the correct fertilizer. If you want to grow tulips outside in this area plant new bulbs in late fall after the soil gets cool.

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Question: Dear Ann, We are under attack by the Squirrel Community. They are feasting on our Camellia blossoms/buds. Today my wife caught one eating a Peony tuber that had just sprouted above the ground. What defensive measures would you recommend? Thanks, Bob and Frances

Anne Clapp: A bit of screen wire over the area where the peonies are coming up will help. I use a little tent of hardware cloth over the plant until it gets up out of the ground. Other people just put a small rabbit fence around the area until the plants gets large enough to survive the attacks. I have used small bags of mothballs in the limbs of camellia plants to keep squirrels out of the blooms. The only other solution seems to be to put ears of dried corn out in an area far away from the plants you want to protect.

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Question: Is this the proper time to prune gardenias? Also have you heard any info/seen any data on the new Bayer systemic control for black spot and mildew for roses? Seems promising, if it works!! Love your advice, Lisa P.

Anne Clapp: The new Bayer systemic for roses does seem to be an improvement over some of the products that have been on the market. I am not sure that it will do as well at controlling blackspot during our hot humid summers as the claims indicate but I am willing to give it another try. As for pruning gardenias, prune out any dead wood and cut out stems that have been split by cold and ice. I prefer to wait until late March to do any major pruning because pruning signals the plant to make new growth and tender new growth on gardenias will get hurt by freezing weather in April. You may want to prune the plants after they finish their early bloom.

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Question: Dear Ann, Prepare for a dumb question, but I know you've heard it all by now! My dogs love rooting around with their noses in the grass in the yard (they're not even diggers!) and are coming up with some kind of roundish mushroom growing barely beneath the soil. I always battle the pooches and pitch the ones they find, but they do smell kind of good. Are they by any chance truffles and is it ok if the dogs eat them?

Dumb question number two--can you eat wild onions that grow in your grass? (of course this is assuming the yard hasn't recently been treated by some chemical)

I know I must sound like some kind of starving farmer wannabe growing my own personal produce by mistake, but I'd hate to throw away any of nature's bounty! Your show is so helpful for novices like me, especially when we're from another part of the country!

Thanks, Rhonda

Anne Clapp: It would be nice if that round brown fungus was a truffle. So far as I know they are not poisonous to dogs but my dog may not have stayed interested enough to eat an amount that would make her sick. The wild onions or garlic are not harmful. Some people have used the green tops as you would chives but the flavor is not that great. The bulb part is not tasty either. The cows in this area used to eat enough in the spring to make the milk taste a bit strange as well.

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Question: Last summer I had moles or voles??? What is the difference and how do I stop them from making HUGE tunnels through my backyard and shrubs?

I have a child and pets so I didn't want to use poison and I tried a grub/bug killer, but there still here!!

Desperately, Anya

Anne Clapp: Moles are small animals that burry under the soil in search of grubs and earthworms. They are controlled by using a trap placed on the tunnel to kill the mole, by getting rid of the grubs (but it takes several years for the moles to discover that there is not food in your yard) or by using one of the sprays that is supposed to run the animals off. I haven’t had any luck with the sprays but other people have. A vole is a small mouse that uses tunnels to get to the roots of plants. I have used a mouse trap baited with apple or peanut butter placed near the small holes at the entrance to the runs. Cover the trap with a heavy flower put or a garbage can lid that is tall enough for the trap to work.

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Question: Hi Anne, Is a ph of 4.3-4.5 too low for a holly tree? If so, what do you suggest? Thanks.

Anne Clapp:I think 4.3 is a bit low even for plants that like an acid soil. My soil for camellias and hollies is above 5.4 and I keep it that high by adding lime around the plants every two or three years.

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Question: Hi Anne, I enjoy your gardening tips. What are the qualifications to become a master gardener? Also when is the best time to divide daylilies? Thanks, Pat

Anne Clapp: To become a Master Gardener contact your local cooperative extension service office and ask for an application. In Wake County you can call the Master Gardener hot line at 250-1084. You attend 40 hours of classes and are required to provide 40 hours of service in return. They are looking for people with an interest in general gardening and a desire to help other people solve their gardening problems. As for dividing daylilies, they can be dug and divided in the spring when they come up but I think the best time to dig and divide them is in late August or early September.

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Question: Anne, I'm digging a new trench in solid red clay for more tomatoes. The trench (currently) is 2 ft deep x 2 ft wide X 20 ft long. I can excavate to any depth or width. The existing clay does NOT have to be re-used. Any type or combination of soil can be used. Soil types can be layered. The plan is to plant 'maters in the back for the entire length. Some peppers and herbs in front. (The front gets the most sun, but the mater plants grow much higher.) Tomato plants will be supported on a 6-7 ft high lattice. All tomatoes are heirloom varieties - Coustralee, Andrew Raeheart, my favorite - Paul Robeson (a Russian black ), etc. The prime directive is "gro more and better tomatoes!" Could you kindly make suggestions for the following items:

1 - depth and width of trench
2 - soil type(s)
3 - any augmentation of soil nutrients or PH
4 - spacing or staggering of tomato plants.
5 - What have I left out?

Thanks, Ken M.

Anne Clapp: It sounds like you are looking for a big tomato harvest. Amend the clay with composted leaves, composted manure (the bagged variety will work), finely ground composted pinebark (sold as soil conditioner), lime and phosphorus. You will need at least six inches of “stuff on top of the soil to till in.The herbs will not like the rich fertility of the soil you prepare for the tomatoes although basil and parsley will grow there. By my calculations you have space for about 10 tomato plants at a two-foot spacing, Pepper plants need about the same amount of soil space as a tomato plant so you may want to increase the width of your garden by at least a foot. Remember that you will not want to grow tomatoes and peppers in th same garden space more than two years. There are soil-borne diseases that affect both plants and the disease is very hard to control once it is established.

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Question: Hello Anne, I was given a gardenia last week. It is very warm in my home. When will be the best time to plant the gardenia outside? Also, please give me any tips on
keeping the plant beautiful.

Anne Clapp: I hope your new gardenia is one that is hearty outdoors rather than a florist gardenia which is a greenhouse plant that does not like our cold winters in the Raleigh area. I would leave the plant outside on those days when the temperatures are above freezing and bring it inside at night. It may be planted outside safely after April 15 in the Raleigh area if it has been acclimated to the outdoor weather gradually.

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Question: My parents have an acre lot on which my mother has planted several beds over the years. However, they are both now in their 70's and finding it difficult to maintain them. As a Christman gift, I along with my brothers and sisters offered to take over these tasks for them. In order to plan, I would like find a resource to use as a guide as to when we should be fertilizing, weeding, pruning, etc. Most of what I have found is plant-specific - and I really just need a general "things to do when" list. Do you have any recommendations? - Julia

Anne Clapp: There are several garden calendars printed for use in this area. They include lists of what you should be doing each month of the year. Look in your local bookstore and see what is available there on North Carolina Gardening. Another useful source of the information is the magazine Carolina Gardener. It has a very good monthly calendar and also has timely articles about plants that are popular in this area.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have a several bare spot in my three-year-old Emerald Zoysia lawn. Someone recommended I use sometime called Black Cow. I have started following the Scott's schedule for lawn care. The next wave is mid-April with fertilizer. But what can I do to help fill in the sporadic weak spots. Thanks for your help, D.J. from Atlanta, GA

Anne Clapp: Weak Zoysia is often caused by not enough sunshine. Be sure the grass has at least 6 hours of sun a day. It is also good to core aerate the lawn in late spring as it begins to grow and spread. The aeration opens the soil and allows moisture to get to the roots of the plants. Follow a fertilization program for warm season grasses recommended by the turf grass experts in the extension service. This includes fertilizing in late April, June and early August. To cover the bare spots you might remove some grass sprigs from the edge of your lawn and replant them in the areas that are more bare.

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Question: Hi Anne, Yesterday I bought some bulbs to plant. It says to plant when the ground temp is above 50. How do you find out? New to gardening, had fun last summer letting my children help plant flowers we had bought from Wal-Mart. What I bought to plant I'll only be able to enjoy for a few years. Planting them in government housing at Ft Bragg. So I'm not going all out in spending all the funds to have a large garden. Also any comments on growing vegs in pots? Hope you can help, Karen

Anne Clapp: There are thermometers, like meat thermometers, that are stuck into the ground to measure soil temperatures. Plants are not quite so fussy that a degree or two makes a real difference. In most cases soil temperatures reach 50 degrees when daytime temperatures are consistently above 60 and nighttime temperatures are in the upper 40’s and lower 50’s. In the sandier soil near Ft. Bragg that should be late April or early May. Sometimes the local county cooperative extension office will know the soil temperature in the region. Check with your local extension office. They may have a website that includes the information.

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Question: Anne, My weeping yaupon has been planted for 2 growing seasons. It seems to do well, but the few small green berries do not develop. It gets full sun or filtered sun for a good part of the morning and midday. Any thoughts? Also, can I expect berries from dwarf yaupon? Mary

Anne Clapp: Most yaupons will produce berries if they are in good sun light and there are both male and female blooms for pollination. Your plant is obviously female if there are any berries at all but you may not have a male yaupon close enough to produce good pollen. Dwarf yaupon do produce berries.

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Question: Dear Anne, I discovered your web page and have this question. Rabbits are eating my newly planted Burford Holly bushes. They (the bushes) are about three feet tall. Someone said to spread mothballs around the perimeter of the mulch. What do you say? Thank you, Jake from Leesburg, FL

Anne Clapp: Mothballs will sometimes keep rabbits away from plant material but you need to put them in a container of some kind so children and family pets don’t eat them. Sometimes putting them in an old nylon stocking will work. There are some sprays that contain hot pepper that will keep rabbits off plants. The best solution seems to be a short fence left in place until the plants get enough old growth that the rabbits don’t like to eat.

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Question: Hi! Is there a holly that does not have spikes on the leaves? Thanks, Barry

Anne Clapp: No there is not a true holly without spikes on its leaves. Some are less spikey than others but it is a family trait.

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Question: Hi Anne, I planted a peach tree 2 weeks ago inadvertently very near if not above a septic tank. My neighbor brought this to my attention yesterday. The tree is only 2 feet tall that I got from the annual sale on Carya Dr. Is it safe to leave there or do you think it needs to be moved? I have heard you speak of plantings above or near septic systems and am concerned. Thanks so much for your help. - Cathy

Anne Clapp: I do not think it is wise to plant a peach tree, or any tree, directly over a septic tank. I would also be very careful about planting them in the drainage field for the septic lines. In the long run you will be happier if you move the tree now. It is not too late to do so but be sure to keep it well watered through the summer.

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Question: Dear Anne, I love your program and listen regularly every Saturday morning. Your program is outstanding and you are so knowledgeable on all the garden questions.

I have a very large bed of the groundcover--small periwinkle with the light lavender flower in the spring. In the last year a small vine-like weed with leaves shaped similar to a small heart has invaded this bed. Is there anything that I can use to get rid of this vine without killing the periwinkle? - Peggy

Anne Clapp: The only safe way to get rid of the weed is by hand pulling it. I have had luck using diluted Roundup and painting it on the leaves of the weed with a small paintbrush. It is tedious but it keeps the weed killer off the periwinkle. The waxy coating of the periwinkle leaf makes it a bit more resistant to Roundup.

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Question: Hello. My husband purchased a bamboo plant a few months back and for some odd reason it seems to us that the plant hasn't grown. Is there something special that he or we need to be doing to help it grow? - Shondrika

Anne Clapp: Bamboo plants need to be in a warm room but they are not fussy about the amount of light they get. At this season of the year they are not in their active growing period so they do not need to be fertilized until they start growing. They do not need much fertilizer but in late March and May they do grow when given some liquid fertilizer at about one third of the strength recommended on the label of the plant food. I pulled my bamboo out of its potting mix and found that it was potted in rocks and water. I changed the water and the plant has put on new growth. I think the roots start to rot in some of the potting mixes that are shipped with the plants.

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Question: I need to know the best time to move camelia bushes, a bush called a snowball bush (but it is the one that has flat blooms on it) and a bush that is red and green with red berry like things on it now I don't know the name of it. - Deborah G.

Anne Clapp: I prefer to move camellias in the early fall when it is cool. They need to be watered until the plants start to develop new roots and I think it is easier to control their watering in cool weather rather than in the summer. I think the plant you are calling a snowball bush is a viburnum. It should be moved when the plant is dormant which would be from December to March. I have no idea what the other plant might be but it should be safe to move it during the late fall or winter as well.

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Question: Anne, I need some strategy advice. I have a small rooted cutting of a varigated French hydrangea, kept indoors due to late rooting. It has struggled to get established, but it has several new shoots beginning to grow frm the base. Should I give it any liquid fertilizer now or wait until later in the season. I intend ot plant it out in April. Similarly, I have a larger potted "gift" hydrangea that is supposed to be very hardy (Shooting Star). It bloomed in December and now struggles with indoor conditions and has lost a number of leaves but also wants to grow its new shoots now. Should I fertilize now? Should I repot now before setting it out in April? Thanks, Joseph/Raleigh

Anne Clapp: I really do not like to fertilize plants unless they are in good living conditions. I think both of your hydrangeas are unhappy indoors but it is still too cold to plant them outside. Find the coolest place you can that does not get below freezing and keep them there until March then I would start leaving the plants outside during the day when daytime temperatures are above 40. You might try to put the potted plant in the ground in late March if you can acclimate it to the outdoor temperatures. After it is planted you can put some protection around it to keep it warm at night. It might be happier that way. I would not fertilize either plant until late April.

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Question: Anne, Enjoy all your segments on 14. Can you tell me the name of a landscaping shrub whose leaves have a purplish cast to them all year? It is not deciduous. Thanks, Jim

Anne Clapp: There are several plants that have a purple cast to the foliage but the one I see most frequently is the purple Loropetalum. It belongs to the witchhazel family and has a pink bloom in the spring and sometimes during the summer. The bloom is similar to the witchhazel bloom and somewhat like honeysuckle.

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Question: Please can you tell me how I can get rid of small flies out of my composting my port plants? -Patricia H.

Anne Clapp: The small flies in the potting soil used for some of our house plants are called fungus gnats. They are living on the decaying organic material in the potting soil. I use the yellow sticky traps to attract them. The sticky substance traps the insects and when the trap is full you just throw them in the trash. If you put the plants outside in the summer you could sprinkle some of the granular insecticides for soil born insects. You may want to switch to another brand of potting soil.

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Question: Hello Ann, Could you help me to propagate my pomegrante. I hear there is a way to grow them from seeds but I don't know the process. Also what about growing them from cuttings? Enjoy watching your show. Thanks, Johnny

Anne Clapp: Pomegranates may be grown from seed or cuttings. I have made a cutting in July on the wood that is just beginning to harden off. You should be able to snap the stem and get it to break. The cutting should be about six inches long. I make the cutting and put it in water like a cut flower to let it absorb water before I put it in the planting medium. Cut the base of the stem at an angle and apply a rooting hormone to the base. The potting medium I used was half sand and half peatmoss watered enough to make it moist. A four inch plastic pot will hold at least four cuttings. Make a hole in the potting mix with a pencil or nail an place the bottom of the cutting in place. Press the soil firmly in place. Cover the pot with a clear plastic gallon jug or a large soft drink bottle with the bottom cut out. Keep the screw top on the bottle. Place the pot and cover in an area that has light but not direct sun. I put it under some bushes near the house. Make sure it doesn’t dry out. They should root in 2 months. If you grow them from seed, sow the seed inside in early spring. Put the seed on top of the soil and press them down firmly. Do not cover the seed because they need to have light to germinate. Keep them out of direct sunlight. The soil needs to be about 70-75 degrees for germination. Putting them on top of the refrigerator sometimes works. It will take about three weeks for the seed to germinate. When they get the first set of true leaves the seeds can be potted up in individual pots.

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Question: What is the best way to get rid of moles? Is there a permanent solution to rid our yard of them. They ruin our yard & drive our Chows Big Munny & Pee Wee crazy!! Thanks for your help. - John W.

Anne Clapp: Moles. the burrowing animal that eats earthworms and grubs in the ground, can be controlled by trapping or removing their food source. The traps are harpoon type traps that are set on active main burrows. The trick is to stomp down all the mole runs then find which ones the animals use as the main run. (The others are feeding forays.) Set the trap on the main run and hope for the best. There is usually only one male mole and his family but they do raise a lot of ground. The method for taking care of the food source is to use one of the lawn insecticides that get rid of grubs. There are organic and proprietary chemical products on the market that will kill the insect population. It will take a while for the mole to look elsewhere for food but it does work eventually. The third solution, which is difficult with dogs in residence, is to invest in a good hunting cat for the yard. Good luck.

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Question: I need to prune the old fruit bearing pear trees in my yard they are very overgrown.They have been here for at least 20 years ,how would you suggest I prune them.I do not know what kind they are but they make great preserves. Thanks, Penny W. in Johnston County

Anne Clapp: It may take more than one year to get old pear trees in shape. The ideal time to do it is in February. Major pruning this year will reduce the pear crop but there is no way to avoid that problem. First remove all dead wood and broken branches. Then start reducing the number of major limbs on the tree. Remove those that have a sharp “v” crotch at the trunk of the tree. Remove limbs and branches that rub against another limb or grow to the inside of the tree. Each limb coming from the trunk will have side branches that produce the fruit on the tree. You may to need to remove some of the side branches entirely if they are damaged or too close to another branch. You will also want to reduce the length of those side branches on the major limbs. The side branches actually produce the fruit and if they are too long you will have too much fruit and the weight will break the limbs.

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Question: Anne, I have a camellia planted by my grandfather (he died in 1960). The plant is at least 40-50 years old and is 20-25 feet tall. The plant is sick. Many leaves have turned an orange/bronze color. Many of the leaves are spotted a cocoa brown or a rust brown. There has been allot of leaf drop, but I am still getting allot of bloom production although many are falling off before opening. I hope some of the damage might be cold related. However, I am afraid that I might have camellia blight. Any thoughts on what might be wrong and what I can do to correct the problem (if it is correctable). Also, do you know of a good book about camellias? Thanks! Tony D.

Anne Clapp: There are many reasons a camellia begins to experience the problems you have listed. Cold damage is one but I think your problem may be more severe. Camellias do suffer from a disease called Camellia Dieback. Check the limbs that are affected and see if there are places where the bark is split or where there are depressions or cankers on the stems. Cut off all the infected limbs that you find making sure you cut back to good wood. Also make sure you clean the pruning shears with alcohol or bleach between each cut so you do not spread the disease. I would also check the base of the plant to see if there is a sign of gnawing at the soil level. Voles will eat the plant at ground level and destroy the plant. You may also have a problem with soil drainage around the plant causing one of the root rot fungal diseases. If you plan to be in Raleigh on Saturday March 13 you may wish to go to the JC Raulston Arboretum to see some of the camellia experts who will be there for the camellia show. There will be an afternoon program starting about 1:00 so someone might be able to identify the problem if you bring a sample of the plant problem.

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Question: Hi Anne - We have grass in our yard that has those runners in it and it gets into everything, around shrubs, flowers, etc. How can I kill the grass without harming the shrubs? It's hard to pull out of the ground. Thanks, Delores

Anne Clapp: It sounds as though you have Bermuda grass growing in your shrubs. Most of the herbicides labeled as Grass killers will work on grasses without harming the shrubs. Read the label very carefully befor you use one. Two that I have used that seem to work are Ornamec and Grass-be Gone.

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Question: I noticed places like Wal Mart and Roses have the rose bushes for sale. Do we buy these now and plant them at this time or do you plant them in the ground now? Just curious.. thanks so much, David from Durham

Anne Clapp: Bare Root roses can be planted in February and March in this area. Plant them in the ground and water them well. Do not fertilize the plant until the danger of frost is past, usually late April.

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Question: I have a Norfolk Island PIne which was doing wonderful, however, now all of the needles are curling under, not all hard, but I really think it is dying. Is there any hope for this? Thanks

Anne Clapp: Make sure your Norfolk Island Pine is in good sunlight. The soil needs to be slightly moist but the plant can dry out between waterings. Don’t let it sit in water because it does not like wet feet. If it has not been repotted in the last three years it may need repotting. As soon as the weather gets warm you may want to take it outside and use the hose to wash it off. When new growth starts to form at the tip of the branches give it a bit of fertilizer.

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Question: Dear Anne, I love your program and listen regularly every Saturday morning. Your program is outstanding and you are so knowledgeable on all the garden questions.

I have a very large bed of the groundcover--small periwinkle with the light lavender flower in the spring. In the last year a small vine-like weed with leaves shaped similar to a small heart has invaded this bed. Is there anything that I can use to get rid of this vine without killing the periwinkle? Peggy

Anne Clapp: The only safe way to get rid of the weed is by hand pulling it. I have had luck using diluted Roundup and painting it on the leaves of the weed with a small paintbrush. It is tedious but it keeps the weed killer off the periwinkle. The waxy coating of the periwinkle leaf makes it a bit more resistant to Roundup.

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Question: I need to know the best time to move camelia bushes, a bush called a snowball bush (but it is the one that has flat blooms on it) and a bush that is red and green with red berry like things on it now I don't know the name of it. - Deborah G.

Anne Clapp: I prefer to move camellias in the early fall when it is cool. They need to be watered until the plants start to develop new roots and I think it is easier to control their watering in cool weather rather than in the summer. I think the plant you are calling a snowball bush is a viburnum. It should be moved when the plant is dormant which would be from December to March. I have no idea what the other plant might be but it should be safe to move it during the late fall or winter as well.

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Question: My husband purchased a bamboo plant a few months back and for some odd reason it seems to us that the plant hasn't grown. Is there something special that he or we need to be doing to help it grow? - Shondrika

Anne Clapp: Bamboo plants need to be in a warm room but they are not fussy about the amount of light they get. At this season of the year they are not in their active growing period so they do not need to be fertilized until they start growing. They do not need much fertilizer but in late March and May they do grow when given some liquid fertilizer at about one third of the strength recommended on the label of the plant food. I pulled my bamboo out of its potting mix and found that it was potted in rocks and water. I changed the water and the plant has put on new growth. I think the roots start to rot in some of the potting mixes that are shipped with the plants.

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Question: Anne, I need some strategy advice. I have a small rooted cutting of a varigated French hydrangea, kept indoors due to late rooting. It has struggled to get established, but it has several new shoots beginning to grow frm the base. Should I give it any liquid fertilizer now or wait until later in the season. I intend ot plant it out in April. Similarly, I have a larger potted "gift" hydrangea that is supposed to be very hardy (Shooting Star). It bloomed in December and now struggles with indoor conditions and has lost a number of leaves but also wants to grow its new shoots now. Should I fertilize now? Should I repot now before setting it out in April? Thanks, Joseph from Raleigh

Anne Clapp: I really do not like to fertilize plants unless they are in good living conditions. I think both of your hydrangeas are unhappy indoors but it is still too cold to plant them outside. Find the coolest place you can that does not get below freezing and keep them there until March then I would start leaving the plants outside during the day when daytime temperatures are above 40. You might try to put the potted plant in the ground in late March if you can acclimate it to the outdoor temperatures. After it is planted you can put some protection around it to keep it warm at night. It might be happier that way. I would not fertilize either plant until late April.

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Question: Dear Anne, I live in the Fayetteville area and we have very sandy soil that drains well but often lacks proper nutrients. We have lived in our home for about 5 years and it is now time to redo the gardens. I will be removing old, dying plants and replacing them with a couple of blue hydrangea bushes and a summer flowering garden. Would you please suggest how I can enrich and prepare the soil so that my Black-eyed Susans, Red Coral Bells, Dwarf Gaillardia, Blue Chip Campanula, and Little Miss Muffet Daisies that I plan on putting in will have good soil in which to grow? Sincerely, Vickie W.

Anne Clapp: I am a firm believer in composted leaves, aged ground pine bark, composted cow manure, phosphorus either from super phosphate or bone meal and lime as additives to the soil when redoing a garden bed. IN sandy soil it will take from 4 to 6 inches of material tilled in the bed. After plants are in place keep them mulched with organic material which should decompose and work its way into the soil.

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Question: Hi Anne, I was watching you piece about rooting the spider plant "babies" and was wondering about watering the little pot of dirt for the new plant. How wet does it need to be and do you need any drainage holes for the 6 weeks before you cut it's connection to the mother plant? Always enjoy your spots! Thanks for you help. Gail G.

Anne Clapp: The soil for the baby spider needs to be kept moist. I never have figured out how to keep it from dripping if I put drainage holes in it so I just check the moisture level and water it when I water the mother plant. It really is not all that fussy!

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Question: Hi Anne, I enjoy your show very much and have found your tips to be so useful. My question today has to do with planting around a pool. Last summer we took the plunge and had an in-ground pool installed in our backyard. I've completed the required fencing around the pool and now need to dress it up a little around the outside of the fence.

The fence around the pool is approx. 12 in. from the concrete decking on the inside and I plan to use colored gravel on the inside but need help with your suggestions on what to plant on the outside perimeter. Eventually I would like to have some privacy but not a priority. Most of all we want shrub that is easy to take care of and pleasant to view, something that really catches your eye and dresses the area up. Given the slope around the pool it would be helpful to plant something that helps in retaining the soil so as not to wash away. Any thoughts would be helpful.

Anne Clapp: Have you thought about growing vines on your pool fence to give you privacy for the summer? Perennial vines such as Carolina Jasmine, Smilax, Cross Vine and Red Honeysuckle are easy to care for and provide colorful blooms as well as green foliage year round. You could add annual vines such as moonflower which blooms at night and is very fragrant and other summer blooming annuals. As for something to retain the soil around the base of the fence you could try something as simple as Liriope, Day lillies, and juniper.

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Question: Hi Anne, I, like several people in the Triangle area, lost several trees last year with the ice storm. One of those trees was a Bradford Pear which gave us some privacy from a neighbors house. It had a beautiful bloom and stood approx. 40 ft high. What can I replace it with to give immediate privacy at that height? I still have one standing beside the one I lost.

Anne Clapp: You really can't replace a 40 foot tree and the privacy it provides without spending the money to have a large tree transplanted to that area. The problem with Bradford pears is their short life span and the tendancy of the limbs to break with our winter ice. One plant that is relatively fast growing with a white summer bloom is the Little Gem magnolia. It has the added advantage of being an evergreen so will provide privacy year round. It would also complement the Bradford pear you still have.

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Question: Hi Anne, First of all, I'm a big fan and listen to your advice at every opportunity. My question is; what should I do for my hostas between now and spring to encourage healthy plants? Thanks. Ken W.

Anne Clapp: Nothing! That's one of the joys of hostas; they require very little care. Make sure all the dead foliage from last year is raked up and removed from the garden. When the new foliage starts to come out of the ground they would like a little fertilizer. You may also want to check them when the new foliage comes up to make sure the rabbits are not eating the new leaves.

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Question: Dear Ms. Clapp, I have three Bradford Pears at the side of the houses. I've known that Bradford Pears got splitted when we have ice storm. Is there a way to trim the trees to prevent them from being splitted by heavy ices? Regards, Heidi.

Anne Clapp: One of the problems with a Bradford Pear is the angle at which the limbs are attached to the trunk. When the angle of attachment is quite sharp, that is the limbs grow more upright than out, the branch breaks easily in ice storms or high winds. We have a lot of ice storms in the Raleigh area so I do not recommend that people plant a Bradford Pear. There really is not a way to prune the plant so it does not have the problem.

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Question: Could you tell me how you get the berries to grow on my Nellie Stevens holly? I have only had them one time and the tree is about eight years old. Thank you, Patricia

Anne Clapp: Nellie Stevens holly usually produces berries if it has at least 6 hours of sun and does not have its blossoms frozen in a cold spell the week they are in bloom. Sometimes too much fertilizer will produce too much stem growth rather than blossom set. You might also have a problem with pruning the plant at the wrong time. It should be pruned by late February before it shows signs of producing new growth in the spring.

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Question: Hi Anne, What plant could you recommend that would be bushy and not to tall, maybe 10 feet, to plant along a metal fence so in a few years the fence will not be visable? The area has sun in the afternoon. Thanks, Cathy

Anne Clapp: There are a number of plants that will help cover a metal fence. Some people have just covered the fence with an evergreen vine such as Trumpet Creeper, Carolina Jessamin, Cross Vine, Clematis or Ivy.

If you want a plant taller than the fence you could try one of the Thuja plicata or dwarf arborvitae evergreens, a camellia sasanqua, wax myrtle, dwarf burford holly. My personal choice is a combination of plants rather than a row of the same thing. Just make sure thay all require the same growing conditions.

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Question: Hello Anne, We recently moved into a new home and will be landscaping soon. It is a wooded lot, mostly shade and we see deer almost daily. Any suggestions for bushes, flowers , etc...? Thanks, Rick

Anne Clapp: There is really no such thing as a deer proof plant. When deer are hungry they will eat anything and when they find a plant they haven't tasted before they will eat some to see if they like it. Some gardeners in Raleigh have decided that the eating of habits of the deer population vary from one subdivision to another.

Among evergreens, pines, cedars and junipers are seldom bothered. Oaks and willows are good trees. Daffodils, hellebores and hydrangeas are usually left alone. Most plants with a strong scent are not popular deer food.

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Question: Hi Anne, I want to plant several pear trees in back yard. They would be in full sun. Could you tell me the best ones to plant in this area? Also do I need to plants several different varieties and what time of year would I plant them? How long would it be before it would bear fruit? Thanks for you help, Cathy from Apex

Anne Clapp: Pear trees are not quite as easy to grow for fruit production in this area as they are a bit further north. You will need two different varieties for good pollination. From experience Anjou and Bartlett pears are not good choices for this area. A local independent nursery should carry plants that grow well in this area. If you are purchasing from a mail order company select the varieties recommended for warm weather areas of Zone 8.

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Question: I have some cuttings from a neighbor's confederate rose. These cuttings are in a bucket of water and have been in water since the bush was cut back. They are starting to sprout. Do I leave them in water and plant in the spring? Does the water need to be changed? Thanks, JL

Anne Clapp: A plant that roots in water does not always do well if planted directly into the garden. I would pot it up now in potting soil and keep it growing in the house until the last week of April or first week in May and then plant it outside.

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Question: Hi Anne, I would like to know the best way to root Christmas cactus. And when is the best time to transplant them. Thank You, Connie

Anne Clapp: Christmas Cactus may be rooted from one or a segment containing several leaf segments from the parent plant. Place the end that was attached to the plant in the potting medium. You want to use a sterile potting medium. I prefer a mix of 1/3 peat moss and 2/3 coarse sand. I put the plant segment at a slant in the mix with no more than 1/3 of the segment below the surface of the soil. Water it enough to moisten the soil well but do not let the cutting stand in water. Keep in a warm, light area out of direct sun. They root quite easily. I transplant them when they are actively growing and producing new growth segments in late spring or early summer.

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Question: Usually our gardenia has turned brown by now and we have broken off the pieces. However, it was shaded this past summer, we had the tree over it trimmed. Now it gets lots of sun and the gardenia is a lovely green with lots of new growth. Do we need to cut it back in anticipation of spring? Will we be cutting off spring blooms if we do?

Also we have a Russian Sage plant that looks really good even now in December. Does it ever need to be trimmed?

Thanks for your help. I have listened to you on WPTF for years and now on 14. -Terry

Anne Clapp: I don't like to cut back gardenias until after they bloom in the spring although if we have very cold weather this winter you may have to cut back some cold-damaged plants in January or February. The Russian Sage can be trimmed back in the spring after it starts greening up a bit. Mine seems to resent being cut back in the fall although the books say it can be cut back in the fall as part of garden cleanup.

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Question: Hi Anne, I purchased a home that has 5 gardenia bushes that are approx. 7 feet tall on one side of a deck. The original owners planted them too close to the deck so they are growing outward. I believe the bushes are 6-7 years old. Is it possible to have a landscaper move those bushes out 2 feet or so? I didn't know if that would kill them. If so I would not move them. Thanks for your help. Cathy

Anne Clapp: It will be expensive to move that many large plants but it will not harm them if it is done after the danger of hard freezing weather is over. Gardenias are marginally hardy in this area so I don't like to disturb them until late March or early April when danger of really cold weather is over. They will be ok when temperatures are in the upper 20's.

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Question: Hello Ann Clapp, I watch your presentations and enjoy them so much. What about the twenty degrees and colder temperatures for Tuesday night, Jan. 6? Will it harm newly planted (since November) azaleas with blossom buds? And what about hydrangeas? Mine has buds. Help! Eleanora

Anne Clapp: I would not worry about giving cold weather protection to newly planted hydrangeas unless temperatures get down in the teens. The real problem is cold wind damage so if the plants are in an area that has wind protection they should be safe.

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Question: Anne, All of my bulbs that I planted in the Fall have already sprouted through and are about 8-10 inches high with no blooms. Should I cut these back now or just leave them in hopes that they'll bloom in the Spring? Thanks, Rebecca

Anne Clapp: Daffodil bulbs usually sprout in late December or early January in this area. They bloom later with no real problems. When I have the time and remember I give them a little fertilizer in mid-January because it seems to make healthier blooms next year.

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Question: Hi Anne, Can I plants leyland cyprus trees, the 1-3 gallon size approx 3-4 feet tall, in Feb. or is that too late? Thanks, Cathy

Anne Clapp: If a container grown plant has been outside, rather than in a nursery greenhouse, it can be planted during the winter when the ground is not frozen. If you can did the hole, you can plant the plant. Make sure it is water in well and that you mulch the area around the plant to conserve moisture and keep the ground temperature a bit warmer.

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Question: What is best to put around grape vines (mulch) this time of the year. Thank You, George

Anne Clapp: I mulch my grape vines with ground up leaves. Make sure all the debris from last fall's crop is raked up so you don't have a problem with insects or diseases that may have been on the plants. When you prune tham make sure you get all the clippings away from the plants as well.

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Question: Anne, I have Lenten hellebore seedlings that are two growing seasons old but still very small. Last spring I translplanted several into small pots, and they grew a little but not much, so I kept them potted. When is the best time to put them in the ground, and what sort of fertilizer and when is helpful? Thanks, Joseph

Anne Clapp: You are more cautious with your hellebores than I am with mine. I just transplant the volunteer seedlings into their new home and water them in well. I don't think they have any special fertilizer requirements. I am more likely to use compost on my woodland plants than a special fertilizer. Hellebores really don't need that much nitrogen if they are in good garden soil so you could try one of the slow release products with low nitrogen.

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Question: Hi Anne, I would like to grow scuppernong grapes in Apex. Is that type of grape able to be grown in this area and how long before you would see fruit? Thanks, Cathy

Anne Clapp: Scuppernong grapes grow well in this area. I like some of the other muscadine type grapes as well. If you put them in the ground this year you could have fruit next year.

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Question: Dear Anne, How do I get rid of the wild onions that seem to be growing proficiently in one area of my lawn? When I look around at the other neighbors yard, they have them as well. I can only use so much in my cooking and enjoy their flavor but enough is enough. Any help in this is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Kenneth

Anne Clapp: Weed killers that contain 2-4D do work on wild onions or garlic. Spray on a day when temperatures are above 50 and when there is no wind. It may take more than one year to get rid of the plants because the bulbs have offsets that may not sprout tops until next year.

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Question: Ann, I missed most of your interesting short on pruning fig trees and am unable to replay from the news14 website. I have a question concerning what I believe to be a Greek fig. It does make large limbs and has two crops of figs unless a late frost gets the first fruit. My question is: if I do a severe pruning, will I have any fruit this coming year (first or second crop)? Thanks, Wally

Anne Clapp: I usually get the second crop of figs off my tree when I do a winter pruning. The trick is to get the tree pruned and then fertilize it in late March to get new growth started as soon as the danger of frost has passed.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have a few shrubs that begin to need trimming. I am wondering if I should trim them at the same place every year or about an inch higher. I think that I should trim them about an inch higher than where the new braches are growing, however if I trim the shurbs that way, they are a little higher every year then???? Thanks for your help, Helen

Anne Clapp: My usual method of keeping plants cut back is to prune to cut individual stems rather than shear the whole plant. That allows me to keep the plants at the height I want them and also opens up the spaces between limbs. When you cut a branch of the plant it usually makes more than one new branch or stem at the point where it was cut, so after several years you have just a few large limbs and lots of short stems that seem to have disease and insect problems.

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Question: Hi Anne, I would like to divide and replant my monkey grass now (Dec or Jan), and would like to know if it's OK. Also, please let me know when it's the good time to divide monkey grass. Thanks, Helen

Anne Clapp: I think you could transplant Mondo Grass or Liriope if we have a few warms days in January. Its is quite hardy and if you water it in well and use a good layer of mulch around the new planting it should reestablish. I prefer to transplant it no later than late November or wait until late March when we don't have really cold temperatures.

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Question: Anne can you put a daffodil bulb in a jar and it bloom like the narcissus? Thanks, Fae

Anne Clapp: Some of the small daffodils that are recommended for southern gardens will grow in water. Hyacinths and crocus will also bloom with the same treatment

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Question: Please tell me how to plant bulbs in a jar with rocks. Thank you, Connie

Anne Clapp: Lots of people seem to want to know how to grow bulbs in rocks and water. The technique works wtih narcissus, some small daffodils, hyacinths and crocus. Use a container that will hold water. Put a two inch layer of rocks or glass marbles in the bottom of the container. Arrange bulbs on top of the rocks with the flat bottom end of the bulb on the rocks. Add a few more rocks around the bulbs to keep them from moviing in the container. Add water just to the bottom of the bulbs and add more water when the water level gets below the bottom of the bulbs after they root. Place the container in a cool area out of the direct sun until roots and green shoots appear. After the green leaves starting coming out of the bulb move the container into a sunny area so they will bloom.

After the bulbs have bloomed most people just dispose of the bulbs.

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Question: Anne, I have been trying to raise tuberoses for some time but so far no success. Perhaps you can give me some tips that will help me become productive. Thank you, Bernard

Anne Clapp: Tuberoses are easy to grow. It's just sometimes hard to get them to flower every year. They need a soil that is fertile and drains well. Plant the bulbs about four inches deep. Fertilize with at fertilizer higher in phosphorus that nitrogen. Many times the bulbs don't flower because they have too much nitrogen and grow more foliage than blooms.

They also seem to perform better when you dig and divide them each year. The bulbs do not seem to like to be crowded. Some growers tell me they plant the bulbs further apart than recommended to get several years of growth withou digging. Even those growers will sometimes use a spading fork and lift the bulbs a bit in the fall.

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Question: Dear Anne, When and how should I prune my Butterfly Bushes? Thank you for your time, Donna from Raleigh

Anne Clapp: Butterfly bushes can be pruned at any time during the winter. How much you prune it will depend on what you want the plant to look like. You may want to keep the plant as a large shrub or small tree by just shaping the plant and removing those stems that are not attractive. Some people prefer to keep the plant compact as a small shrub or large perennial plant in a flower bed. To keep it small you may prune it back to 10 inches or so and shape it as a small plant.

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Question: Hi Anne, I followed your directions to over winter my coleus cuttings. They are located near a window which gets filtered morning sun. They seem to be doing fine. Some have already rooted. Recently I noticed a milky white substance on some of the stems and leaves; however, not all of the cuttings are infected with this substance. I carefully take a clean cutting edge and scrape it off and give the tops a good drenching. I check the cuttings daily for this substance. Anne, what is this substance and what can I do to eliminate it or control it? Those of us who are novice gardeners really appreciate your advice. People in my garden group affectionately call you Mother Nature.

Anne Clapp: Thank you for the kind words. I think the white substance on your coleus may be an insect. Mealy bugs often infect house plants and can be a pain to get rid of. Scraping them off is one method, or you can spray them with insecticidal soap. Follow the directions on the container as to the amount to use. I prefer not to leave the spray on plants so after about thirty minutes I put the plant in the sink and wash the leaves off with the sprayer. Some gardeners use a cotton swab dipped in alcohol and wipe the white fluff off.

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Question: Help! Any suggestions on how to slip Pineapple sage? Thanks! Frank

Anne Clapp: I think we may be too late for this fall because I think tonight's freeze will take care of the pineapple sage. You can take cuttings about three inches long at the tip of the growing stems. Remove the lower leaves and put the cuttings in a mixture of 75% sand and 25% peatmoss. Cover with plastic to maintain the humidity around the plant or mist during the day. Keep in a warm area with good light but no direct sun. Cuttings should root in a few weeks.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have a large schefflera I inherited from my mother. Last winter it developed scales which left a sticky mess on the carpet underneath the plant. It is warm and dry in our home but I tried to keep the plant well-watered. I had the plant outside all Summer and recently brought it in. It still has scales. I spent several hours yesterday removing scales by hand from the undersides of the leaves with rubbing alcohol (which I heard kills them) and an old cloth. I do not care to repeat this process. What is the best and most efficient way to get rid of scales and to prevent them from coming back once they are gone? This is a large plant that is hard to move. Should I cut the plant way back? Do systemics (fertilizer with insecticide) really work against scales? If not which products do you recommend? Thanks so much!

Anne Clapp: I don't know of any insecticide for scale that I would use in the house on a house plant. The Bayer insect spray for roses does contain a material that seems to take care of scale on some orchids but the label does not cover house plants. My usual treatment for scale is to wash the stems with a soap solution and if that doesn't take care of the problem I dispose of the plant.

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Question: I am looking for a source of free/ cheap good quality composted cow manure in wake county. Do you have any ideas? I can truck about a cubic yard at the time.

Anne Clapp: I do not know of a source of free composted cow manure in Wake County. There are some mulch companies that do have some inexpensive manure so call several that advertise in the News and Observer. You also might call the Wake County Extension Office during the day, 250-1084 to see if they know of a source.

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Question: Hello Anne – we are going to be renovating our home - tearing down and rebuilding a larger room - which means losing two camellias in the process - it breaks my heart. These are late bloomers – usually January or February –(but I noticed one has one or two beautiful red and white blooms right now). I believe one of them to be very old – my house was built in the late ‘50’s and it is a ranch with a basement and the tree is almost 2 stories tall – I try to keep the bottom pruned but I’d have to get on the roof to prune the top!

I really hate to lose these camellias, but I don’t think I can afford to have them dug up and replanted and I think it would be more of a job than I could do myself. Can you give me some tips for cultivating them from cuttings?

Thanks, Lauren from Chapel Hill

Anne Clapp: Camellias are rooted from softwood cuttings taken from new growth that is just beginning to harden. You should be able to break the plant easily. In this are cuttings are usually made between July and October but this year the wood may still be at the right stage now. Cut from the tip of a major stem. There should be at least four inches of this year's wood. Remove the lower leaves leaving no more than two leaves on the stem. Cut the stem at an angle and apply a rooting hormone. Put the cutting in a moistened mixture of sand, peatmoss and perlite (the white light weight potting material.) Cover the container with plastic. Leave it in a warm area with good light but no direct sun for several weeks, although it may take all winter for the cuttings to root. A heated garage with a window may work.

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Question: How can one grow camellias from cuttings, and when is the best time time to do so? Ditto for hibiscus?

Anne Clapp: Camellias are started from cuttings when the new wood has reached the semi-hard wood stage. You should be able to bend the cutting and have it break. This usually occurs from early July to September in this area. You cut a six inch length or shorter if the new wood is not that long. Remove the bottom leaves and trim the cutting so it is at least four inches long with at least one and preferably two leaves at the top of the stem. Use a rooting hormone for woody plants according to the directions on the chemical container. Insert the cuttings into a rooting medium of moistened sand and peatmoss. Cover the cuttings with plastic or a glas jar to keep them moist. Keep them in an area out of the sun and direct light but they do need light for rooting. The cuttings should form roots withing two months.

The method of rooting hibiscus will depend on the type of hibiscus.

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Question: I have a tree in my backyard and I think it is
a habiscus, I really don't know. It has beautiful blooms, that are reddish in color and has a huge amount of blooms. It is about 9 feet tall, and it now has buds on it, but I don't know if it is going
to bloom now or not. It bloomed last February, and March, and the flowers did not stay on long, and fell on the ground. My husband said it was a Camilla but I think it is a Habiscus. Do you have information on this tree? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: From the size of the plant and the time of its bloom I think you probably do have a camellia. It could be a camellia japonica or one of the spring blooming hybrids.

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Question: I have some azaleas in my yard and two of them have yellowing leaves on them, what could be the cause and how can help them? Also, what is the best protection for an hibiscus in the winter? Mine are in the ground. Thank you, Robin G.

Anne Clapp: A lot of azaleas have a few yellow leaves on the older growth of the plant. This is the normal leaf drop of an evergreen plant, muck like the leaf drop on the trees in your yard in the fall. If all the leaves are yellow I might suspect one of the root rot problems which could be caused by a disease in the soil or poor drainage in the soil causing water to collect around the roots of the plant.

A tropical hibiscus will not survive a Raleigh winter in the ground. They need to be in a protected area where it will not get below freezing.

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Question: We have a large leyland cyprus that we would like to move to another place. Is this possible without losing the tree? If transplanting is OK, how big should the hole be? Thank you, Joanie

Anne Clapp: A large Leyland cyprus is not a plant that the average home owner can move easily. You need to dig a very large rootball so we are talking about trying to wrestle several hundred pounds of plant material and soil out of a hole in the ground and move it to another place. Some commercial nurseries move large plants with a large mechanical tree spade but it is costly.

It would probably be easier to cut down the tree that is in the wrong place and plant another one in the other area.

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Question: Dear Ms. Clapp, Is pruning needed for shasta daisies, purple coneflowers, coreopsis, and purple althea before winter? They were planted this past spring. Thanks.

Anne Clapp: I would not prune the althea until spring, and then I would not prune it unless it is too large for the area where it is planted. The other plants may be cut back in late fall to make the garden look neater but they do not have to be cut back until spring when you want to encourage the new growth from the plants.

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Question: What can I use to kill wild violets that are growing in beds of mondo grass and liriope? Thank you for your help. Lynn

Anne Clapp: Anything that will kill the wild violets will also kill the liriope and mondo grass. You can try swabbing the herbicide on the leaves of the violets. I have used rubber gloves and a small paint brush. 2-4D and Round-up both work. THe seeds that spread the violets come from white blooms at the base of the plant. They have one crop in the spring and another in the fall.

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Question: Dear Anne, please tell me when the appropriate time is to prune Gardenias. Mine have now finished blooming in Birmingham, Alabama. Also, they have those little white nats all over them. At least twice this year I have powdered them with seven dust, but that doesn't last long. Thanks, Debb

Anne Clapp: The little white flies on gardenias are hard to get rid of. Malathion seems to work better than Sevin. It is really too hot during the summer to try insecticidal soap unless we have a few days in the high 70's. Gardenias can be cut back in late winter but your first bloom will be delayed as they bloom on the tip of the old wood. I prefer to cut them back in June after the first flush of bloom.

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Question: On the Weekend Gardener program a while back there was someone on the show that talked about topsoil. This man on the program said that they make there topsoil and what they used to make it so that you would know what you're getting. What was the name of that company and how can you get in touch with them? Thanks! - Tim

Anne Clapp: The topsoil people were with Triangle Landscaping out at Gresham's Lake. My advice to anyone getting topsoil is to inspect the stuff before you buy it and get a weed content certification report.

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Question: I have a problem with something. I think bugs, but am not sure, are eating my pepper plants. I have put Sevin on them, and they still are eating them to shreds. Any suggestions? Kevin

Anne Clapp: The problem with bugs and pepper plants is that many of the beetles that do the damage work the night shift so we don't see them. Sevin really works best as a contact spray so you could venture out after 9pm and spray or sprinkle Sevin dust on the surface of the ground around the plants and cover the plants with one of the lightweight row cover fabrics. With all the rain we have had this year sprays are often washed off the foiliage of the plant before they have done their job. Peppers will produce fruit even with damaged foliage!

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Question: Is it too late to prune large azaleas? Also, you have probably answered this question many times but how does one get rid of voles? At least I think that is what is causing the holes in my yard. It looks like someone has driven a 2 inch metal pipe into the ground. Thanks for you assistance! - Gail

Anne Clapp: It is a bit late in the season to do major pruning on an azalea. They are beginning to set blooms for next year and the time for new growth on a severly pruned plant does not have time to harden off to the point that it will not be harmed by an early frost.

As for the two inch hole, it could be a chipmunk rather than a vole. Voles usually make holes smaller than a quarter. Voles are mice and can be caught in a mouse trap baited with apple and peanut butter. Put the trap next to the hole and cover the hole and trap with a tall flower pot or box that will make the area dark.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have a dwarf banana tree that I ordered through the mail. I planted it in April and it's doing great. It's about a foot tall now. It's in a pot that's 10 inches deep and about 14 inches in diameter. The magazine says it will grow 5-8 ft tall. My question is when should I repot this tree and what size container should I use? I was thinking a 13 gallon garbage can maybe? And if this is okay does it need to be full of potting soil or could I use something else in the bottom as filler? Thanks and have a great day! Cindie

Anne Clapp: My banana plant grew quite well in a seven gallon flower pot for over 5 years. I think the garbage can would be too deep and not wide enough. Even with a filler in the bottom instead of potting soil you would probably have problems with drainage and moisture control.

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Question: Please Help! Tell us how to get rid of SLUGS! They are killing everything in our garden! - Donna

Anne Clapp: Slugs have been particularly bad this year. We are doing a segment on them on For Your Garden this week. I set out saucers of beer near the plants they are attacking. The slugs and snails are attracted to the yeast and will drown in the liquid. There are snail baits and pellets that may be sprinkled near plants but I hesitate to use them because dogs and cats are attracted to them as well. Copper strips can also be used to keep snails out of pots and flower beds. I found a piece of copper flashing and cut a strip 1.5 inches wide and about 3 feet long. I put it in the ground near a wave petunia so that it stuck up about 1 inch. It seemed to discourage the slugs.

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Question: Hello Anne. I usually miss your broadcasts but I find this website very helpful. I am having problems with basil plants this year (after growing it successfully in the past). First, the leaves start to fall off and then the stems turn black. Eventually, the whole thing just shrivels up. I've tried both sweet basil and valentino. After the first plants died, I tried again but had no luck with them as well. These are in a raised bed with good drainage. I see no sign of insects. Can you tell me what I'm doing wrong? Thanks for your help, Alicia

Anne Clapp: I think your basil, like a lot of other plants this spring, is reacting to the cool weather and moist conditions and probably has either a fungus or a bacterial disease. I would not replant in the same area because the problem may be in the soil but you could sink a pot with potting soil in that area and replant your basil now. Make sure that you have very good drainage in the area where the basil is growing this year.

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Question: Dear Ann, I have updated the landscaping in my yard and have used India Hawthorne, 9 of them in three different areas. Four of them planted near one another and three others planted together are having some sort of problem. The leaves get brown spots and eventually turn yellowish brown and fall off. They are loosing alot of leaves and look as if they are dying. The last two (planted together) look very healthy with nice green foliage. Please help me save them! - Kelli

Anne Clapp: I think your Indian Hawthorne may have one of the leaf spot fungal diseases. Try spraying the plants with Daconil, Funginex or one of the other general purpose fungicides. Follow the directions carefully. The usual recommendation for foliar leaf spot diseases is to spray three times. My bottle of Daconil says to spray once a week for three weeks. Keep all the fallen leaves picked up from around the plants so they don't spread the disease.

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Question: We bought a house several years ago that have two winter daphne in the front of the house. These bushes have been in place for at least 5 years. I noticed a week ago that one of the bushes is beginning to look rather wilted and the leaves are looking rather dull and pale. We have thought that the bush must be getting too much moisture, lots of rain lately, and have tried to raise the bush and have tried to put in some better soil around the bush. Could there be some sort of other problem and is there anything that can be done to save our bush, we have enjoyed their fragrance and don't want to lose either of these. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony

Anne Clapp: You are right to try to get excess moisture away from the roots of your Daphne. It is very susceptible to root rot diseases and does need good drainage. We are noticing that several of our plants are putting on a lot of growth with all the rain this year. That seems to make them more prone to wilting during the heat of the day. Be sure your Daphne is not in full sun. It does like partial shade.

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Question: I have clematis growing around our mailbox and it is almost at the end of its growth cycle for this year. How do I trim it back - do I cut it all the way down to the base or do I just trim back the vines? - Melissa

Anne Clapp: I am not sure what type clematis you have growing on your mailbox. Some types will bloom more than once during the year. You do not want to cut the plant back to the ground because the green foiliage should continue to give you some structure around the mailbox. You may want to trim it to keep it attractive for the summer but don't cut it back severely until it has been killed backed by a frost this fall.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have just purchased a home in Apex and I want to plant blueberry bushes on my property for the birds. I have an acre and there is lots of areas, sun and partial shade where I can plant. Can you tell me what kind of blueberry bushes grow well here and should they be planted in partial sun or full sun? Thanks, Cathy

Anne Clapp: Blueberry bushes may be planted in either full sun or partial sun. They like an acid soil and lots of organic material in the soil. They also need a lot of moisture to produce good fruit. You will need to plant at least three different varieties to get the best cross-pollination for good yields of fruit. I am growing some of the high bush varieties and have been quite pleased with them. You may want to call the Wake County Master Gardener office at 250-1084 and ask for a copy of their brochure on growing blueberries.

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Question: Anne, I live in Raleigh and my daylilies need dividing/transplanting. When is the best time of year? Love your Saturday show!!! Joe

Anne Clapp: The best time to divide and transplant daylilies in this area seems to be in late August or early September. They transplant easily just make sure to keep them watered until they get a root system reestablished.

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Question: I have a 3-year-old rhododendron that is losing its leaves. The bush is located in a partial shade location. There is no physical evidence of bugs and the leaves are not turning yellow. I heard rhododendrons lose some of their leaves after the blooming period. Is there something wrong with the plant? Thanks, Carlos from Cary

Anne Clapp: If the rhododendron is losing the leaves that are closest to the trunk of the tree, i.e. the oldest leaves on the plant, it is something that is expected at this time of year. If the leaf drop is also on new growth I would check the drainage around the plant. With the heavy rains this spring we have seen some excess soil moisture that is affecting the roots of plants and causes leaf drop.

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Question: Dear Ann, I love your "for your garden" segment, you give so many wonderful tips and ideas. I have a question -----I purchased some Vinca during early spring of this year which has a very wonderfully rich shiny light green to dark green/cream color. I have been trying to locate this same variety and I'm unable to to do so. I have searched and I have not been able to locate this color the only one I can find is a one with a very dull green color. My questions is was this more colorful variety feed something that caused this very shiny rich color? I want to add some more to my garden however I want to maintain the color consistency throughout the garden. I purchased them from Home Depot and I believe they were grown by Hines Nursery. Hope you can help.

Anne Clapp: There are many cultivated varieties or cultivars of vinca. There are several that are a light green. Some are varigated with gold or white. Now is not a good time to find vinca in garden shops but it should be widely available again next spring. I would check with some of the local independent nurseries and see if they recognize the cultivar you have. They may be able to get it for you this fall or next spring. Of course, if your original plants are healthy you may be able to divide them or take cuttings to increase your stand of plants. Good luck.

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Question: You said prune just above a growth ring but I'm not sure where that is. I have some badly overgrown plants that need to be pruned and taken care of but I don't know if it's too late in the season or where to start. Thanks for your help.

Anne Clapp: Explaining what to look for on a stem is sometimes difficult. Look at the stem carefully in the area where you want to make the cut. Find a rough area that looks as though leaves have dropped off the stem from that area in the past. Make your cut about 1/4 inch above that scarred area on the stem. You will find that most plants are actually fairly forgiving of bad haircuts.

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Question: I have a eucalyptus tree that I am concerned may grow into my septic tank. It is about 10 feet away from it. If I need to transplant it when would be a good time. It is about 4 foot tall. Thanks. I enjoy reading your articles. Susan

Anne Clapp: I would not worry about a eucalyptus growing into a septic tank if it is 10 feet away from it. The tree does not have an agressive root system and up to this time has not been long lived in the Raleigh area. Our cold weather seems to keep them from getting too large. The voles are particularly fond of the ones I have planted. I think the voles suffer from sore throats in the winter and chew on eucalyptus.

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Question: Anne, I have an extremely old and large camelia bush that averages 16 feet tall but has sparse branches near the bottom...should I prune now and how severe should I cut back? Thank you and I do so enjoy your show Sat. Morning. Barbara from Wilson

Anne Clapp: I have always pruned my camellias up a bit from the ground so there is space to grow something low underneath them. It seems to help air circultaion and prevent some insect and disease problems. Camellias can be trimmed rather severly but it should be done in March so that the new growth can harden off by October and buds can set on stems by late summer. Cut out spindly limbs and reduce the height of the plant as you wish.

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Question: I have been plagued with hydrocottle ever since Fran blew through the state. This may just be a coincidence but wherever this stuff came from, it is a real pain to get rid of and is spreading over my yard. What is your suggestion to combat this unwanted weed? Brantley from
Goldsboro

Anne Clapp: I think the weedy pest you describe is Hydrocotyle sibthorpioides, a member of the parsley family, and sometimes called water pennywort or navalwort. It is used as a ground cover in coastal areas with marshy soils and is often found as a weed on golf courses in South Carolina. It is difficult to get rid of but it does respond to a broadleaf weed killer that contains MCPP. Because it has a shiny leaf some people like to use a surfactant (agricultural wetting agent, or Ivory liquid soap) to improve the penetration of the weed killer. You don't want to spray when temperatures will be above 85 or on a day when rain is predicted.

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Question: I have 2 large boxwoods at my front steps. They are 7 years old. 4 weeks ago I trimmed them back. One is fine; the other is very sparse and dead-looking on the lower sides. Have I killed it?? Will it return to green?? Anything I can do?? Thanks, Rex

Anne Clapp: The trick to cutting back boxwoods is to make sure the plant is smaller at the top and larger at the bottom. If the bottom limb is shorter than the limb above it it does not get enough light and the limb may eventually loose its leaves and die. It takes time for shrubs to recover from pruning. If it was healthy when you pruned it it should still be ok.

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Question: Hello, I recieved a staghorn fern as a gift and I'm not quite sure how to care for it. If you could please send me care instructions for this type of plant I would be much obliged. Thank you, Emily

Anne Clapp: Stag horn ferns are a bit difficult to take care of. They are usually mounted on a form and watered or misted on a regular basis. We don't have detailed care instructions that could be sent to anyone so I would suggest that they consult one of the books on ferns. We have had several questions on Stag Horn ferns in recent weeks and two of them have been answered on the web page. Thanks.

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Question: Anne, About three weeks ago, I sprayed my Basil leaves with Sevin - Ready-to-use bug killer. I'm a little hesitant now to pick the Basil for my sauce. How long do I need to wait until I can be sure the leaves are safe to eat? Thank you, Cornelia

Anne Clapp: Sevin is labeled for use on some food crops as a means of controlling insect damage. You do have to read the label very carefully to know when it is safe to eat the food you sprayed. The time elapsed between spraying and eating vary with the crop and the strength of the chemical used so it would not be possible for me tell you when it is safe to eat the product.

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Question: Hi Anne, I read about homemade weed killer made up of ammonia, dishwashing liquid and/or salt...my question is wouldn't this be harmful to your plants/flowers also? - Cindie

Anne Clapp: You are correct. The ammonia and salt solution does not know the difference between a weed and a flower. The same thing is true of commercially available weed killers as well. They will both work to kill unwanted plant material but they will also damage other plants growing in the area. That is why I prefer to pull weeds in shrubbery and flower beds by hand.

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Question: I have a rose bush that is getting big but has no buds.The other two are budding.what is going on. Thanks, Susan

Anne Clapp: Very often roses in our gardens are the rootstock of roses that have been killed back by cold or disease. Dr. Huey, a bright red rose, is often used as rootstock on roses sold in the South. It blooms once a year. There are other old rootstocks that do not always bloom, especially if the roses are cut back in the spring. Many of these roses bloom only once on wood produced the previous year. The other reason for roses not blooming is lack of sun or not enough fertilizer and water.

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Question: I read that yellow leaves on gardenia is not a concern. How about Salvias? I recently planted this annual and I'm getting yellow leaves at the bottom of the stem. They appear to be flowering OK. Any advice? Thanks, Vito

Anne Clapp: Yellow leaves on the lower stems of perennial and annual salvia are also from the older leaves that are being lost as new growth forms on the plant. Most of our plants loose older leaves as new ones are formed. Some gardeners choose to pinch back the tops of the plants when they start to loose lower leaves. It makes the plant branch and look les "leggy".

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Question: Hi Anne, Last year I planted one elephant ear. This year three have come up in the spot where I planted the one. Can I dig up the others and move them to another location or not? Someone else told me you can only move or thin out elephant ears once every five years. I was also told the same for Hosta only they said every three years. Thanks...Cindie

Anne Clapp: Actually, you can move and divide most plants any time they get too large for the space they are in. Elephants Ears make a more effective display when they are allowed to make a large clump but if you want to divide them now there should be no problem. Hosta can also be divided once a year if you want to have them in several places. I would advise waiting until fall to divide the Hosta. I divide mine just as the foliage starts to turn brown in the fall. You don't hurt any of the foliage then and the roots have a chance to grow during the winter.

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Question: I have a new Gardenia plant that's doing fairly well. It has buds on it however, some of the leaves have brown spots and turn yellow before falling off. This was happening before all the heavy rains also. It is planted in a very well shaded area. Can you tell me what may be the problem and how to remedy it? Thank you

Anne Clapp: Your gardenia is dropping its old leaves. It is a natural condition that we showed on a recent segment of For Your Garden. Click here to view that segment.

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Question: Hi Anne, Can you please tell me how to apply permatil to my plant beds? How much do I need to use and how deep to place it in the ground? I have heard you speak of it several times and I am having a problem with moles/voles. Thanks so much, Cathy

Anne Clapp: My method for using Permatil is to put about 2 inches on top of the ground and work it into the top eight inches of soil. You can build a two inch wide moat around plants that are valuable. The Permatil goes at least six inches into the soil. There are very clear instructions for using the product on the Permatil bag.

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Question: Recently you used a product on roses for insects and fungus. One of them you stated as new for this season and you could use every 14 days vs. every 7 days. Please provide me with the name of that. Thanks, Jim

Anne Clapp: The material that is labeled for use every 14 days is Banner Maxx. I could not find it in Raleigh. I had to go to Coors Farm Supply in Smithfield. There is a similar product called Fertiloam Liquid Systemic but that product has a label that says apply every 10 days for Black Spot on roses.

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Question: A month or so ago, I saw a segment on News14 where you described a shade-loving groundcover-type of plant that had broad leaves. The name has slipped my mind, and I would like to try some in my yard. The names that I kept running through were "Mayglove, Maywort..." something like that. If you can help my aging brain, I would appreciate it, and also if you know of a nursery in the Garner/So Wake area that might sell it. Thank you! Stacie

Anne Clapp: The plant we showed was the native wildflower "Maypop" or May Apple. The botanical name is Passiflora incarnata. It is perennial but the leaves are only out for a few months in the spring. You do have to plant something else in the area for the rest of the year. It is not carried in most nurseries. Plants are available at the Botanical Garden in Chapel Hill. Spring plant sales at gardens are another source.

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Question: After my amarylis blooms, there is a large seed pod at the base of the flower. Can these seeds be cultivated? If so, how do I go about it? Thanks, Pat

Anne Clapp: Let the seed pod on the amarylis ripen on the stem. When the stem begins to turn brown and shrivel up remove the seed pod. Open the pod, remove the seeds and sow in a sterile seed starting medium. Keep the seeds moist and in an area with good light but not in direct sun until they sprout. Move into a sunny area and then transplant into a small pot when the leaves are about two inches long. It can take several months.

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Question: Dear Anne: Please give me exact instructions about when and how to trim back the spiderwort. I assume from your first response that it will invade my garden area. I also assume that it will bloom again in the fall. It is still blooming, but not so profusely as before. I do wish to have this in a certain area of my yard. Any further comments or information you can give will be greatly appreciated.

The oxalis is pink. It grows from a bulb rather than a root. (I do have come of the yellow you wrote about too - but am attempting to eliminate it from the garden area.) How long does the oxalis bloom and does it spread?

The sweet shrub that I asked about is very difficult to locate. I have found no garden center that has it. Can you tell me what nursery supply might have what I am seeking. I think you realize that I want the old type that smelled so sweet.

I have an area in my yard that slopes, has no grass and has a problem with rain water washing across it. This area is located under a very large and extremely old red oak tree. What do you suggest that I do with this area to impede the water runoff? I am sure there is something I can plant to eliminate the problem. Please remember that in the fall there will be volumes of leaves, therefore, whatever is planted will have to be able to tolerate the leaves or be immune to their removal.

Thank you so much - I do enjoy your website and your programs.

Sarah in Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: I trim mine back in the summer when it starts to look bedraggled. Some people don't trim theirs back at all. You are just trying to keep ot looking neat and trying to keep the seed pods from spreading the plant.

Your drainage problem is not a simple one to solve. It is hard to grow a lot of plant material under a dense red oak. You may want to try a series of timber or rock terraces to deflect the path of the water. When you get the water problem solved you might try planting hade loving plants such as hosta, ginger or rhodea that would be going dormant for the winter.

Call some of the independent nurseries in your area to find a source of calycanthus or call the people at Cape Fear Botanical Gardens. They might know local source for you.

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Question: Hello, I recieved a staghorn fern as a gift and I'm not quite sure how to care for it. If you could please send me care instructions for this type of plant, I would be much obliged. Thank you, Emily

Anne Clapp: Staghorn ferns need to be watered regularly. Either use rainwater or allow chlorinated tapwater to stand for at least 24 hours before using it. You will find that the fern likes to be misted with water especially if it is mounted on a slab of bark rather than being potted in a container. Some people like to find a safe place outside for the ferns in warm weather. They like light but not a lot of direct sun - and no afternoon sun in this area.

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Question: Hello, I do like your commentary on gardening. I need your expert advice on these two problems I have:

1. I have several roses plants and all my rose petals have a brown rim around them and under them. What could it be?

2. I have climbing clematis, when they finish blooming, should I remove the stem when the flower is gone?

Thank you, Lysette

Anne Clapp: The brown edges on your roses are probably thrips. They are quite hard to control and take frequent spraying with an insecticide. Some growers have said that the Bayer granular fertilizer-insecticide product for roses is effective in controlling them. The insects are very small and there are hundreds of them on the bloom. It is not a pest during the entire growing season.

If your clematis is a once blooming variety that blooms in the early spring it may be cut back as soon as it finishes blooming.

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Question: When is the best time to plant the pear tree and are they hard to grow? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: Pear trees are best planted in the fall in this area if they are container grown or field grown then balled and burlaped. If you purchase a bare root plant they are planted in late winter - usually February. The plant is easy to grow but if you want to produce fruit you do have to have more than one variety for pollination.

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Question: I have found some spiderwort growing wild and dug some up to replant. I know this is a tuber plant. Is it in the lily family? Where should it be placed? What care should be given to the replanted plants? I notice that they beautiful violet blue flowers do not remain open all day. Will you please give me information concerning spiderwort? Thank you, Sarah in Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: Spiderwort is a Tradescantia. It is not a member of the lily family. Some varieties are very attractive garden plants. The tender variety is often sold as the houseplant called Wandering Jew. Be careful in growing the plant because it can get out of hand and cover more territory than you would like. In early summer after it has bloomed you may want to cut it back to produce a new flush of bloom in the fall. Most of them do get a bit gagged looking during the heat of summer.

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Question: Do you remember the shrub that virtually everyone's grandmother had in her yard that had small brown colored blooms that smelled so WONDERFUL? I have looked almost everywhere and cannot find one. Please tell me where to look for these and when I might plant one (if I can find it). Also, I have a question about Oxalysis (sp?). It has clover type green foliage and small pink flowers. Please give me some information about this plant. Thank You, Sarah - Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: The common name for the sweet smelling plant with brown flowers is Carolina All Spice or Sweet Betsy. Botanically it is Calycanthus floridanus. It is a native shrub and varies in fragrance. It is available in nurseries and my advice is to purchase it in bloom because some cultivars have absolutely no fragrance. As for oxalis, there are several cultivars that make wonderful perennials for the garden. The one with pink flowers that you describe is an easy to care for plant. Keep it our of hot afternoon sun. The yellow flowered varieties are usually a weedy pest.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have several questions. When is the best time to divide and move bearded irises, and how? When is the best time to do the same with hostas? I have a couple that have gotten quite large. All around them are very small plants with one or two leaves appearing that have similar leaves. Are these possibly baby hostas? I thought they were weeds and was going to pull them, until upon closer inspection, I realized they looked like miniature hostas. Can wild violets be transplanted? If so, when? We have some long the edge of our property that I would like to encourage in the wooded area of our backyard. Thank you in advance. I really enjoy listening to you on both Channel 14 and WPTF. Happy Spring! - Betty

Anne Clapp: I think the best time to transplant and divide German Bearded Iris is in August before the new growth starts. Dig the plants, remove the old rhizomes and allow the plant to dry out for a full day before you replant. I cut the old foliage to about 6 inches when I transplant so the plants don't fall over in the garden. I also have luck transplanting at this time of year just as the plant loses its last flower. That way I know exactly what color it is and I don't make as many mistakes mixing up the colors in the bed. Follow the same system of cutting foliage and allowing the plant to heal over a bit before you replant. As for hostas, yes those may be little hostas that have developed from seeds. Seldom do the plants look like their parent plant but you do get some interesting plants that way. It is a fast way to get a ground cover bed of hostas without much effort. I think the best time to divide hostas is in the fall just as the foliage begins to die back. You can divide just as they begin to emerge in the spring but I chop off too many leaves that are then ugly all summer. As for transplanting wild violets, that is easy to do and they can be moved right now. They spread by seed from the little white flowers that are formed at the roots of the plant in the fall so moving them now will allow the new seedlings to develop in the woodland area where you want them. Please remember though that wild violets can sometimes be a more aggressive spreading plant that we like in our yards.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have a 20+ year-old scarlet oak that I planted in 1987; back then it was approximately 6-7 feet tall. I've never had a problem with it, but this weekend I noticed that on all the lower branches, all the leaves' tips are turning black and curling up--just on the very tips (all of them--not just the apex). Do you know of any disease with this specific symptom, and what can be done to treat and/or protect the tree? The tree has very full foilage, and the top branches do not currently exhibit the problem. Thanks, David

Anne Clapp: I think you need to take a sample of your scarlet oak problem to the co-operative extension office in your county. In Wake County it is on Carya Drive off Poole Road. There is a wilt disease with similar symptoms that has been a problem in the midwest. That problem would be serious. A less serious cause would be either cold damage when the new foliage was emerging, a mildew with the cool wet spring we have had, or a weed killer applied in the area as the new foliage was emerging. I have seen several cases of herbicide damage this spring. There were a lot of breezy days and people were spraying broad leaf weed killers on their lawns.

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Question: We have a wall of mature (35 ft) Leyland Cyprus trees that were blown down during Hurricane Fran. We stood them up, tied them and they have been fine. This spring we noticed the side of the trees torwards our neighbors house is near dead ( it is in heavy shade) and one of the end trees is near naked. Also there is spotty dead limb tips throughout the trees ( more than typical ). What does it sound like is happening - doe we start over with new trees.

Anne Clapp: Leyland cypress do much better in full sun than they do in heavy shade but I would not expect to see the kind of damage you describe if your side of the hedge is in full sun. I would expect the plant to grow toward the sun. The loss of needles on one side of a plant could be due to an insect problem or a chemical spray contact. One plant dead at the end of a row could be a drainage problem when water collects around the roots of the plant or some other problem that has caused damage to the roots. It could be that the roots were damaged when it was blown over during Hurricane Fran and the plant has declined slowly. With the size of the plants and the condition of them I would replace the plants with something else. Ligustrum, wax myrtle, cleyera, Florida anise, Nellie Stevens holly and similar plants might be good choices.

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Question: We have three Gardinias bushes about 3 ft high that had a lot of black mold on most of the leaves last summer. We treated them with a funuside. Over the winter these leaves died where ever there was mold. New leaves are sprouting at the ends of the branches. We are noticing some web (like a small spider web) throughout the limbs this spring. We like these bushes - can you recomend a program for us to beat the mold and the pests ? Gail

Anne Clapp: Loss of leaves is common on evergreen plants. If new growth is present on the tips of the stems the plant is healthy. The plants really do not need much fertilizer. A good layer of mulch such as ground leaves or composted bark provides nourishment for the plants and keeps an even moisture around the roots. Use a layer about three inches deep and keep it about four inches away from the trunk of the shrub.

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Question: Anne, HELP! I have two beautiful Crabapple trees in my yard. Last year they came down with a fungus which I treated with Immunox fungicide early that Spring. It helped and they looked great the entire summer. This year they seem to have the fungus yet again and the leaves have begun to die. I just noticed it April 28 and applied the Immunox fungicide immediately. Do you think I was too late to save them for the summer in terms of looking healthy and lush? And can you tell me if the fungus can cause the tree harm? Thanks, Mike

Anne Clapp: I'm not sure what fungus is bothering your crabapples. One that does affect plants in cool damp weather is mildew and Immunox is a good remedy. Applying fungicide does not cure a disease but it does prevent its spread. I would assume that if you were successful last year with the same symptoms you will also save the plants this year. Mildew is not fatal and plants will often recover even without spraying when the weather turns warm and dry.

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Question: Hello, I have a question about zoysia grass. My yard is about an acre. I have plugged part of my yard with zoysia plugs, but since this is such a slow process, I am thinking about using a core type aerator then over seeding the yard with zoysia grass seed. Will this work or will it be a waste of time and money? -Mark

Anne Clapp: The problem with overseeding the lawn that is already plugged with zoysia is that the two cultivars of zoysia may not be the same. TO the best of my knowledge the seed that is available is a variety of zoysia that is not sold in plug form. They color and texture of the grass may be different. It usually takes about three years to get a good coverage of zoysia from plugs. The old saying is the first year it sleeps, the second year it creeps and the third year it leaps. I think you will have good luck if you fertilize during the summer and keep the grass watered well. I would also use a preemergent herbicide in the fall to keep down the winter weed crop and speed up your greenup next spring.

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Question: Last year white flies completely destroyed our tomatoes. There were thousands of them and they swarmed when we touched a tomato plant. We used insecticides recommended by garden stores but they did not kill them. What is the best product for killing these flies? At what point to we need to begin spraying and how often does this need to be done? Thank you.

Anne Clapp: Most books recommend malathion as a contact spray for white flies. The secret is to spray often - about every third day. One problem with doing that much spraying is that you interfere with the insects that are pollinating the plants and you don't have as large a crop of tomatoes. I do recommend that you check the plants you buy to make sure there are no insects or insect eggs on the leaves of the plants.

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Question: Anne - I was listening to your Saturday morning program on WPTF and just caught the end of a call. It concerned a product which would kill Bermuda Grass, but would not harm Fescue. I believe he said it was a Vantage Product?? I would appreciate it if you would let me know the chemical name and explain what a Vantage Product is?? Also, where I might buy this product? Thank you very much. Gail

Anne Clapp: Vantage is the brand name of a chemical that is used to kill several types of grasses. The person in question had a Centipede lawn and was trying to kill Bahia grass. The label does give some information about killing other types of grasses but it will kill fescue if I understand the label that I read. The product that will kill Bermuda in a fescue lawn is Turflon ester/Acclaim but it is very hard to find locally.

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Question: When is the best time to divide iris? If you cut the tops off, will that hinder blooming next year?

Anne Clapp: The best time to divide iris is late summer. They are somewhat dormant in late July and August because of the heat. You clean up the foliage and cut the foliage on the rhizomes into a little six inch fan before you replant the iris. I usually dig the plant, divide and clean it and leave it out of the ground for a day or two to allow the newly cut rhizome to callus over before I replant them. You usually have better luck if you don't put the plant back into the same are but move it to a new flower bed.

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Question: We bought a rose bush as yellow but it blooms pinky?

Anne Clapp: Roses do not always bloom the color we expect. Part of the problem is the name of the color and what we expect the color to be. I never buy a plant that I haven't seen in bloom if color is that important. There are many roses labeled as pink that are more coral, light red or blends of pink and yellow.

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Question: Hi Anne, I just purchased a small staghorn fern. I have read that you should mount it on a board. Currently it is a clay pot. Can you please give me the care instructions and would it be better to leave it in a pot or to mount it on a board? Thanks for your great advice. Cathy in Cary

Anne Clapp: Staghorn ferns really do better mounted on a frame of some kind because they are more impressive when the plant is growing on the side of a support. There are special treefern logs and bark covered frames that are designed for staghorns. The problem most people have when the fern is not in a pot is they are more difficult to water.

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Question: What do you do with the remnants of tulips/daffodils after they are done blooming for the Spring. They're looking scraggly and I'd like to plant something else in those areas now - can the leaves/stems be cut off, or do I need to dig them up or what?

Anne Clapp: Leave the foliage of tulips and daffodils in place until the foliage turns brown and dies back. That allows the bulb to make the food to produce a bloom for next year. Some people interplant daffodils and daylillies because the daylilly foliage starts to come out about the time the daffodils die back and it does disguise the brown foliage. You can also plant new plants in and among the daffodils, just leave the daffodil foliage in place and make sure it is still in the sun.

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Question: Our camellias have yellow spots on the leaves. Any suggestions? - Gordon

Anne Clapp: Many camellias have yellow or white spots on the leaves that are caused by a color break virus. The virus does not seem to do harm to the plant and it is often a sign that the blooms on the plant will have white spots as well. The white spots on flowers are called varigation and are often highly desirable. Yellow spots on the oldest leaves on camellias are the loss of color as leaves are shed from the plant.

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Question: You did a segment on planting Amaryllis bulbs. I have a related question. For the last several years I have saved amaryllis bulbs and repotted them the next year. During the summer I plant them in an outside planter and fertilize them occasionally. A few re-bloomed this year. My question is about those that did not flower. If I fertilize them through the summer will they bloom next year? If they have lost their flower forever, I won't waste my time or the fertilizer. Pat

Anne Clapp: You amaryllis should rebloom. Often the reason they do not is because the bulb is not allowed to rest during the fall. They do need to go completely dormant for at least eight weeks before you repot them for the winter.

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Question: Hi Anne, I was wanting to know if it is too late to plant tulips? if it isn't, would you mind telling me if they are able to grow easily, because my mother in law said in NC it is hard to do. Thank you.

Anne Clapp: Tulips are planted in November in the Raleigh area. Most tulips do not repeat bloom well in this area and so are treated as annuals rather than perennials. If you want them to produce flowers more than one year plant them in an area that does not get afternoon sun during the summer and keep them well mulched in the summer to keep the soil cool.

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Question: Hi Anne, Do thornless honeylocust trees, such as Moraine or Shademaster, do well in our area? I moved down here from western New York, where they do well, but I haven't seen any in the Raleigh area. Thanks, George

Anne Clapp: Locusts are not very happy with our humid summers, and they are not very fond of our winter ice storms either. They do grow and bloom but not very well.

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Question: Hi Anne, 1) I have a yellow lady banks rose which I moved in November (2002). The plant is about 2 years old. I did not prune it when I moved it. The plant seems to be living, the canes are green and long but I have not seen any buds/leaves. Isn't it time for leaves to appear? What could be wrong. The plant is in a location that receives lots of sun. 2) I have very old (20 years or more) cow manure. Is it ok to put around roses? Should other fertilizers be used with this if so what kind. Thanks so much for your help. Pam

Anne Clapp: Lady Banks roses are sometimes evergreen in this area. There are years when a sudden cold spell will kill the blooms for the year. They usually leaf out about April 1-15 in Raleigh. It is not unusual for a plant not to bloom the year after it is moved. The plant is growing roots rather than blooms. 20 year old manure is a more important source of organic material than nitrogen for roses. Its does improve the soil but the plant will need additional fertilizer. Roses are very heavy feeders and need more phosphorus and nitrogen that the manure would have. Try one of the chemical fertilizers formulated for roses. There are several good ones on the market now.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have a creek running through my backyard. The origional/natural bank has been destroyed and the area around the creek is often wet and mushy. My goal is to be able to use the yard on both sides of the creek. I'm also concerned about erosion in places where the creek bends, so I need to somehow stabilize each side of the creek. I have considered having retaining walls built on each side, but this looks to be rather expensive. It has been suggested that I use 'rip-rap' rock and plant water loving plants. Is there anything more attractive then the rock that might solve my problem? And what plants would you suggest? For an idea of size, my land is 1/2 acre, the front yard is about 1/3 the size of the back, and the creek is about 2/3 of the way out in the back yard. Thank you, Mary Jo

Anne Clapp: The amount of water flowing through the creek in your back yard will determine how successful you can be at stablizing your creek bank. Don't dig into the the creek side of the bank to do planting but put plants back from the bank and let them grow into the creek. I have a fairly high volume creek in my back yard. There is some rock in the area where a sewer line was cut into the bank. It catches all the trash that washes down the stream but it does stabilize the bank. We did put some large rocks in the stream to divert the water flow and provide stepping stones to cross the creek. If you don't have a lot of water I'd skip the rock on the side banks and plant a lot of water loving plants. The type of plant will be determined by the amount of sun or shade in the yard. For shaded areas you can try ferns, river oats, turtlehead, corydalis, Cyperus, hosta, lobelia, mondo grass and elephant ears. For sunny areas try Louisiana iris, Japanese iris, sweet flag, swamp sunflower, St. Johnswort, Seashore Mallow, dwarf curly willow, spiderwort and blueberries.

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Question: Why are some Red Buds a deep, dark, purple color and others more pink. Are there different colors or is it a function of the soil? Thank you, Lee

Anne Clapp: The color differences among redbuds probably are due to both plant genetics and cultural conditions. The major differences are from the genetics of the plant. There are named cultivars of redbuds selected from plants growing in a garden because they have a dark red color, a light pink bloom, or even a white bloom. I haven't read of anyone changing the color of the plants with cultural procedures but soil fertility, moisture and light often affect the color of a plant.

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Question: I have two questions: 1. How can I help my irises and dailyness to bloom this year? 2. I have some very old narcissus and daffodil that have not bloomed and are clumped together. When and how do I separate them and replant them? Thank you, Sarah

Anne Clapp: To make plants such as iris and daylillies bloom make sure they have enough sun and moisture. Be careful with their fertilizer. Too much nitrogen causes rot on iris and too much foliage on the daylillies. Soil that is well prepared and organic mulch such as composted leaves are sometimes the best fertilizer for both plants. As for bulbs that are crowded, I've had the best luck digging mine just after they have finished blooming - right about now - and dividing and replanting immediately. Leave all the foliage in place and let it die back completely before you remove it.

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Question: A year ago, I just bought an old house .....but my question is that I not sure about the red clay under what grass I have, but what are some good grass seeds to use and flowers for planting up here (see I am from Goldsboro where we have soil not clay.) Thanks, Mr. Red Clay

Anne Clapp: Red clay makes wonderful soil. It holds moisture and has lots of nutrients. You just have to learn how to live with it. If you have a fescue turf the secret is to aerate the soil in the fall and overseed if you have bare patches. You fertilize in September. November and February. As for other plants, you may have to add organic material - composted leaves, fine pine bark or other organic material- and you will need to mulch plants with a layer of organic material to keep the soil in a good condition for plants roots.

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Question: Hi Anne, I live in an apartment and I want to have a vegetable garden. Do you have any idea or suggestions on how I can do this? Thank You, Joni in Fayetteville

Anne Clapp: Container gardening works well for vegetables as well as ornamentals plants. Tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, squash and herbs are very popular as patio vegetables. The trick is to have large containers - at least 15 inches for good production. Keep plants well watered and take care to fertilize on a regular basis. Try some herbs in a strawberry jar.

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Question: I have a tall fescue lawn and about three weeks ago I put out some weed and feed, but I was wondering should I aerate my lawn and throw out some seed? I last aerated and seeded the end of Fall; i.e. October or so.. Also, If I shouldn't do it now then when? Thanks in advance for your help. Robbie

Anne Clapp: If you have put out weed and feed it will do you no good to put out grass seed. The weed preventative should be active until at least May and its job is to prevent the germination of seed - whether it is grass or weed seed. The best time to aerate fescue is in the fall when the plant is going into its fall growth spurt in September.

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Question: Ann, I have 5 dogwoods in my front yard and last year I got very few blooms on 3 of them and this year it's going to be the same. What determines the blooms, I haven't pruned any of these trees, and they have all had the same growing conditions. Thanks, Celeste

Anne Clapp: Trees are somewhat like children in a family. Even in the same environment they don't all behave exactly the same. Some trees will bloom more prolifically than others due to genetic inheritence. In some cases the age of the plant will determine the amount of bloom. The plant is setting bloom in the summer so we often advise that you make sure the plant gets watered if we have a dry spell in July. Mulch the plants well and you may want to fertilize with a bit of additional phosphorus this spring.

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Question: My husband and I moved to Cary on March 26, 2002. Our previous lawns have been covered with centipede. After 35+ years of low-maintenance lawns, it has been a shock this past year to deal with fescue!!! We need professional help. Could you recommend some reputable nurseries in the Raleigh/Cary area that would advise us on how to correct a lawn problem-especially the front lawn? Most of the seeds planted last fall washed away and we're having an erosion problem on either side of the driveway. We know we need topsoil but don't know whether to put fescue sod or ground cover. We would also like to know if it would be feasible to plant centipede in this yard. Thank you. Mary

Anne Clapp: There are three very reputable nurseries in Cary: Cary Garden Center, Garden Supply Co. and Fairview Nursery. Garden Supply Company does have a landscaping business and have made turf recommendations for grasses other than fescue in the Cary area. I would trust the people at either of the three nurseries to recommend a turf expert.

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Question: Can you tell me if there is anything I can spray on the ground now to kill Japanese beetles while they are still in the beginning stages? Thanks for your help. Phyllis

Anne Clapp: I prefer to use Milky Spore for Japanese Beetle grub control because it is a specific organic control for the grubs. It goes out after the soil warms up in late April or in early September. It does take a year or two to get established. There are insecticides for soil insects but many of those do kill earthworms as well.

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Question: Hi Anne, My question is about planting my tulip bulbs. I realize that it's late in the season for planting them but they were given to me after the ground had frozen. I placed them in the garage wrapped in towels in hopes that they would still activate. My question now is how deeply do I set the bulbs in the ground in order to allow them a chance to do thier thing? - Janine S.

Anne Clapp: If they were my bulbs I would plant them in a pot right now for this season, setting the bulbs about three inches below the top of the soil. As soon as they bloom plant them in the ground and try to get the top of the bulb about 6 inches beneath the soil line. Good Luck!

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Question: Hi, I live in the Sandhills and want to know if a shrub called Eleagnus will grow in our area. I want something that is evergreen and grows quickly up to 15 feet. This looks to be good for a natural privacy fence. Thanks, Janet

Anne Clapp: I think Eleagnus will grow just about anywhere. In fact it becomes almost invasive in some areas around here. It grows quickly and does have a fragrant bloom. The drawbacks are it does produce lots of seedlings, it has thorns and it has a bad reputation for attracting scale insects. It is used by the highway department as a median barricade.

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Question: We just purchased our house in February. I would like to know if we are required to refertilize our lawn and/or reseed our lawn? If so, by what time is recommended? How many times in one year is it recommended? Regards, Aruna

Anne Clapp: Congratulations on your new home. At this time of year in a new home I would not do anything to your lawn. Watch it over the summer and if you notice bad bare spots or have more weeds than you like you may want to do some work on it in September. That is the time to reseed and fertilize fescue lawns in this area.

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Question: Can I put the birdseed shells (example: sunflower and niger) that fall from the feeders onto the ground in my compost bin? Thank you.

Anne Clapp: I don't like to put sunflower hulls in my own compost pile because there are some plants that seem to be affected adversely by them. I haven't heard of any problems with niger seeds. I have put the sunflower seeds in the area where I have liriope planted and don't seem to have a problem with them.

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Question: Hardy Amarylis: When do you feed them? How much sun do they need?

Anne Clapp: Hardy amarylis seem to need about 4 hours of sun a day to bloom well. I fertilize mine when the bloom spike appears.

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Question: I have two question regarding pine needles. When I was working up where I plant my garden, I noticed that there were a lot of pine needles in the dirt. I have heard things won't grow good around pines because pines are acidic. Would having pine needles in my dirt impede plant growth? Also, I was late to getting my leaves picked up, and plan to use them as mulch in the garden. Again, there are lots of needles mixed in with the leaves. I was wondering if that was OK in leaf mulch, to have pine needles. Thanks in advance! -Kevin

Anne Clapp: I hope pine needles don't hurt plants because I have lots of them in my mulch pile. They are acidic but most of our ornamental plants in the area are fond of mildly acidic soil. They don't break down as quickly in the soil as some other types of leaves but they are safe. Grinding any leaves at this time of year and adding them to the soil or even using them as a mulch on top of the soil works just fine. A few pine needles in the bunch won't hurt a thing.

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Question: Hi. I am in South Carolina. What is a good month to apply fertilizer to sod? - Lloyd

Anne Clapp: The best time for spring application of fertilizer to cool season grasses such as fescue and bluegrass is from February 1 to March 15. They will not be fertilized again until September. The best time to apply fertilizer to warm season sod such as bermuda or zoysia is about May 15 or as soon as the grass starts to show signs of green color in the spring. These grasses are fertilized in May, June, July and August.

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Question: How do you recommend we time the spring application of grub control to our lawn? What other product besides Milky Spore you would suggest? - Joy

Anne Clapp: Milky Spore is the "organic" control for lawn grubs. It is useful because it is a specific biological control for Japanese Beetle grubs. Any insecticide labeled for lawn insects will control grubs but most will also kill earthworms which we would prefer to keep in the lawn. Sevin is probably the safest of the products on the market to use. As for the time of application, mid-May when temperatures are starting to warm up and before the beetles emerge from the soil is usually a good time for spring application of Milky Spore.

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Question: I have a spindly pothos that is continually losing leaves. I'd like to start anew and repot it by circling the vines in a pot and putting dirt on top of it...will this work?

Anne Clapp: A spindly pothos that is losing leaves and looking sickly is not a happy plant. Is it getting enough light? Are you allowing it to dry out between waterings but not allowing it to go too long without water? Do you fertilize it lightly about once a month during the growing season from April to September? If you want to repot the plant, the best way is to take the plant out of the pot it is in and check the roots. If there are healthy, just cut back the top of the plant so it is about six inches tall and repot it in good soil. Don't fertilize it until you see new growth starting and keep it out of the full sun until it is growing again. Good luck.

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Question: I would like to know about green ash trees. are they large or small? Are they a good tree for medium size yards? Are they a good shade tree and do they fare good in bad weather? Thanks, Robert B.

Anne Clapp: The green ash is a beautiful, large shade tree that is not particularly happy in the hot, humid summers in this part of the country. It will grow well in our mountains. The tree does produce a seed pod that can be quite messy and produce a large crop of little ash trees. There are male cultivars of the tree available and if you want to grown one find one of the male plants. A smaller tree with a similar leaf pattern and stately shape is the Chinese Pistasche (Pistacia chinensis). The Pistache has beautiful fall colr and is very happy in our climate.

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Question: Dear Anne: I have been telling my wife that I'm going to start an inside container garden until the weather gets better then I'll move them outdoors to the deck out back, my question is: What are some easy plants should I start with? I do want to do it from seeds . I have listened to you on AM 680 on Saturday mornings and, I've been getting the urge to start doing this ever since, you have been most helpful and I look forward to seeing you on News 14. Thank You in advance. Sincerely, Mike S.

Anne Clapp: Starting plants from seeds is quite easy to do. We have just recorded some pieces on the process for News 14 shows. Some containers are easier to start by filling the container with soil and directly sowing the seeds. Plants such as zinneas, coleus, cosmos and coxcombs are usually easier to grow by direct sowing. If you have planters with opening such as strawberry jars or some of the hanging bags it is easier to start the seeds in small pots and get a plant established before you put the container together. Growing vegetables and herbs in continers is also fun. Tomato, pepper, eggplant, basil, chives and parsley are easy to grow in pots. Also try some vines. Moonflower and morning glories are both easy and will twine beautifully on the curved forms or stakes from the garden shops. Good luck.

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Question: Ms. Clapp, Several weeks ago I purchased some grape vines from a home improvement store. They were already fairly large and healthy. Because it was too early to plant them at the time, I stored them in the house. After a week or so they began to grow while they were still in their wrapping. Before long they had several inches of growth. When we had that warm spell a while back I planted the grapes outside, thinking they would be able to take the weather. After this cold period all the new growth is dead. To make a long question short; will the grape vines grow again this year or do you think they have been too severely damaged? Respectfully, Wolf A.

Anne Clapp: I would wait until May to decide if the grapes are dead. If you don't see any signs of new growth by May 15 and if you scratch the stems and don't see growth the plants have probably been killed back. Fruit trees and vines may be planted as bare root plants during freezing weather. The trick is to get them in the ground before any new growth sprouts.

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Question: Dear Anne, I have 4 camellias, 2 bloom in spring and 2 bloom in the fall. I planted them in late spring of last year. I have not gotten a bloom out of them yet. Some of the branches have as many as 3-4 buds each, also some of the buds have brown around the edges. My questions is, do I take off all the brown buds? I Know I should take off all the buds but leaving one on each stem, except for the ones under a leaf. My last question is, can I expect a flower this spring? Thank You, Liz

Anne Clapp: I'm glad to hear your are growing camellias in your yard. You may want to come to the Camellia Show at the JC Raulston Arboretum on Saturday, March 15 from 1-5pm. As for the problem with buds and blooms on camellias in the spring, very often plants will not bloom the first year they are in the ground. With as few buds as you have this year I would not remove any buds. I recommend removing buds when you have a very heavy bud set or for those who show camellias in shows and want to have the largest, most spectacular bloom.

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Question: How do you get Burmuda Grass out of a cool grass lawn (fescue)?

Anne Clapp: It is difficult to get bermuda grass out of fescue but it can be done. There is a Turflon Ester product produced by Monterey Chemical Company in Fresno, California that is being recommended by some turf experts. The instructions I have say a mixture of Acclaim Extra and Turflon is applied 4 times during the summer. You start when the bermuda starts to green up in late spring and apply every four weeks. I understand it may take two years for control. Good luck.

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Question: Hi Anne. I purchased a new home last summer and I am struggling to get a good lawn established. Last fall I fertilized/seeded my backyard with Rebels fescue seed and also had Confederate fescue sod planted in the front yard. Needless to say my lawn looks yellow due to the very cold weather this winter. I heard that if I fertilize my fairly new lawn, it will burn up. Is it ok to fertilize my lawn? If so, what kind do you recommend? I recently bought "Starter fertilizer" 20-27-5 but have not used it yet. Thank you very much for your help! You have a great show with very useful information. Armando

Anne Clapp: Your new fescue lawn probably needs a little fertilizer right now. The starter fertilizer you purchased will work but you need to use it at a much lower rate than the package will recommend. Your lawn needs no more than 1/2 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. The first number on your fertilizer bag is the percentage of nitrogen in mix so you would need no more than 2.5 pounds of fertilizer per 1000 square feet of grass. Fertilizer needs to be applied to a fescue lawn in this area around the middle of February to the first of March so that the grass greens up but does not put on lush growth that will not survive the hot, humid summers in this area.

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Question: I have two pampas grasses (at the front corners of my property) that are well over 20 years old and are getting too large and scraggely looking. I would like to permanently remove them.....any suggestions??? Do I use round up? Do I dig them up? Do I burn (if I can) them? HELP...Thanks.

Anne Clapp: Pampas Grass can be killed off with RoundUp. Cut back the old grass and when the new growth gets at least 10 inches long spray it with RoundUp following the directions on the package. You can dig the grass up but it has a very tough root system and has a large root ball so it often a two person job. If you dig it out, cut it back first so you don't get cut by the blades of grass and dig out all the roots. Good luck.

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Question: Hello Anne, I planted a few crape myrtles last summer. Will the ones that don't have berry like features on them produce flowers this summer? Or is there is process I should take with these trees? And why do some have these berries and some don't? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: The "berry structures" are seed pods from last year's blooms. Usually they are forced off when the new growth for this year starts growing. You should have blooms in that same area this year. Crape Myrtles bloom on new growth so any plant that is healthy and has enough sun should bloom. Sometimes you can lengthen the bloom time on a Crape Myrtle by cutting off the dead blooms in the summer.

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Question: Hi Anne, Being in Raleigh for 2 years now I enjoyed a lot the beauty of the rhodondendron. I'm going back to my home country Romania and I need to know how is the best way to have it plant overthere. Can I use seeds or roots, and also if you can tell me a place where I can buy it? Thank you, Manuela

Anne Clapp: Most Rhododendron grown from seeds are not identical to the parent that produced the seed but you can grow the plants from seed. They require a period of cold stratification so for most amateur gardeners this means the easiest way to plant seed is to sow them in the fall and allow them to germinate the following spring. Rooted cuttings are easy to transplant, but I am not sure what the laws are about taking plants into Romania.

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Question: Three years ago, I planted an apple tree in my back yard. The first year, the apple tree produced one apple, the size of a golf ball. The second and third year,the tree produced two apples, the size of a golf ball. Each year, the apple tree has grown and the leaves are bright green. Is there anything I can put on the tree to grow normal size apples? Thanks, Sinatra

Anne Clapp: The best way to make sure you have good fruit on an apple tree is to make sure you have two or more apple trees. This is one of the fruits that has to have another variety to cross-pollinate. We would have to know what variety your tree is so we could recommend a good pollinator. Fruit trees do need fertilizer and pruning each year to improve the quantity and quality of the fruit produced. The North Carolina Co-operative Extension Service (your county extension agent) has a very good publication on fruit trees. It is also available on their website.

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Question: Hi Anne, Can you recommend a good fertilizer for evergreens and is this a good time to apply it for greater Spring growth? Thanks, Mike

Anne Clapp: I'm still a great believer in an organic fertilizer such as Holly Tone for slow release nutrients for evergreens. They really don't need much nitrogen and what they get needs to be a slow release product. Early March is usually a good time in this area to apply it. After my plants have been in the ground three years I depend on the breakdown of the organic mulch near the root zone of the tree to provide the nutrients.

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Question: We've bought some exotic plants and lately we've found 2 scorpions. I was wondering if they were coming from the plant.

Anne Clapp: Not knowing the source of your exotic plants, other than suspecting Harvard students, I have no idea of whether the scorpions came from that source. That is a creature seldom found in this area although there is an occasional one reported. If you have any questions get in touch with the local wildlife people and certainly get back in touch with the supplier of the plants.

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Question: Help!! I have a large "Spike" plant (which appears to be in the palm family) on my deck that thrived last summer in a large pot along with a hearty Asparagus Fern. I did not protect this pot during the ice storm we experienced in early December, and my Spike has never quite bounced back. The other day I noticed it had "drooped" or "flopped over" right in the center of its trunk or base. I know the fern will come back (as it did last year), but I don't know if the spike is worth trying to save. Can I salvage it by cutting it back, or should I consider it ready for the trash?

Anne Clapp: I suspect the spike has been damaged by cold and ice. Dracenas and Phormiums are both called spike plants, and there are other genus as well. Some of them are root hardy in this area and will come back this spring. Others are more tropical and have been completely killed. My advice is to wait and see. Even if it is one of the root hardy types it will probably emerge from dormancy late in the spring so I would wait until June to make the decision to get rid of the plant.

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Question: Hi Anne, I planted Lobelia Fan Scarlet and Lobelia Fan Burgundy this fall. Since the extreme cold weather, they look as if they are dead and very wilted. Will they survive and recover this spring? Or is there some type of special care I should give them? Thanks.

Anne Clapp: Lobelia is usually hardy in this area though it may get killed to the ground in extremely cold weather. They are damaged by too much mulch over the rosette of leaves of the base of the plant. I would not cut the plants back. Leave them alone until the weather warms up. When you see new green growth breaking from the stems or base of the plant trim them to good wood then shape them to an attractive form.

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Question: When can I plant bareroot roses? The directions on the bag say Jan. The recent severe cold temps are too cold, I'm sure. How cold is too cold to plant these roses? - An eager gardener

Anne Clapp: Bareroot roses are shipped from mid-January and can be planted any time the ground is not frozen. Soak the roots well in warm water before planting. Prepare the planting hole with the "amendments" needed for your rose bed, put the rose in the hole and water it in well. Then mulch the plant well with bark, or ground leaves or a plastic cone filled with pinestraw. The mulch should completely cover the canes. Leave the mulch in place until the plant begins to put out new growth in late March. I've planted roses in January and February with no trouble.

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Question: Is lime sulfur spray something that can be purchased premixed or do you mix it yourself? If so, what formula? Thank you, Judy

Anne Clapp: Lime sulfur sprays are available as a liquid concentrate product which is mixed with water just as most insecticides and fungicides. The directions for the correct dilution are on the package. Most garden supply stores and the garden shops in such places as Home Depot and Lowes carry the concentrate at this time of year.

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Question: Hi Ann, I enjoy watching your gardening spots on television as you always have great tips! I'm hoping you might be able to help me with my problem. Although it's not soil or plant issue, it's a Great Blue Heron problem. I have a 15 ft circular pond that's three foot deep at the center with sloped sides. I like to keep lots of daylilies and other flowers around the pond during the summer so that I can sit and enjoy the flowers and goldfish. I probably have 40-50 various sized goldfish that I'm quite fond of. However, this last spring, I became aware of a very frequent, persistent visitor who is also fond of my fish. He's a great blue heron. Not only is he big, but he's pretty smart too. He waits up in the pine trees until us humans are out of sight, then he attacks my fish. He also visits my fish at dawn, before I'm out of bed. I bought a 3 ft tall life-like statue of a heron and put it by the pond. I even moved it around. This worked for a month or so, until the real bird figured it out. Now I have netting stretched over my pond, but it really looks bad. The bird hasn't figured out how to get around the netting, so I haven't seen him for a week, but I know that as soon as I take off the netting this coming spring...he'll be back. I also have two labrador retrievers who live outside, but they don't even scare him. Please help! - Kim

Anne Clapp: Welcome to the land of the Great Blue Heron. There is one that visits my yard between visits to lakes and ponds in the area. Netting seems to be the only way to control them. One of my friends stretches the black net across the top of the water and lets the plant material come up through it. It is a bit less obtrusive than draping netting over the plants and pond.

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Question: I want to get a head start on the garden and want to start with some seeds. I have an enclosed porch, which keeps the temperature above freezing and in the afternoon in the high 50's, depending upon the weather situation. It gets quite alot of sun at this time of the year. I'd like to put my seed boxes on the porch, but wonder if the temperature will be too cold for them to germinate. I know my Dad used cold frames, but not sure just when he put the seeds in. Appreciate your help, Bob

Anne Clapp: To have success starting most seeds you need to be able to supply good light, even moisture, and warm temperatures. The cool season annuals and vegetables will germinate when ground temperatures are in the 40's but many seeds need to have warmer conditions. You may find that using a heating cable or mat below the seed containers will improve the germination of most plants on an unheated enclosed porch. After the seeds are sprouted and growing they need to have a lot of light or they will get leggy and weak. You may find that a small fluorescent light fixture close to the seedlings is necessary on a porch that does not get at least 6 hours of direct sun.

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Question: Anne, My wife and I are moving into a newly built home and the backyard is covered with straw and some type of grass seed over what is presumably fill dirt. While some of the seed seems to be germinating and growing (despite the current cold), I'm wondering what I can do to help insure that when warmer eventually comes along, my dirt patch will turn into a field of green. Can you offer some suggestions to get me started toward a long summer of lawn maintenance? Thanks, Dave

Anne Clapp: For those moving into a new home with a lawn seeded with fescue at any time other than August-October you are going to have a hard time getting the lawn established. You will have the best luck fertilizing very lightly ( about 1/4 lb or less of nitrogen per 1000 square feet) in early February and keeping the lawn watered this spring and summer. Mow it at the highest setting on your lawnmower, about 4 inches. You may have to reseed in the fall to improve the grass coverage. Early September is the best time.

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Question: Can I plant amaryllis bulbs outside in my yard? If so, what are the planting instructions: when, best location, type of fertilizer to use , other related advice.

Anne Clapp: Most amarylis grow quite well outdoors in this area. Plant them in late April. Make sure the soil drains well and there is good sun in the area. Don't put fertilizer in the hole when you plant, but sprinkle some on top of the ground when you finish planting. I use Holland Bulb Booster. The top of the bulb is about 3 inches under the soil and I mulch mine in the winter with several inches of shredded leaves, but fine pine bark would do as well.

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Question: Hi Anne, I read that now is a great time to put lime on a lawn as it takes about two months to work into the soil. Is that true? What about fertilizing the lawn this time of year? Is that a good idea? Thanks, Mike

Anne Clapp: This is a good time to put out lime. We have filmed a segment about lime that should run in December or early January. It takes several months for lime to change the pH of soil so that plants can use the nutrients in the fertilizers we put out. People with fescue or bluegrass/fescue lawns may want to apply their winterizer fertilizer now. We have recommended that these types of lawns respond well to fertilizer applied near Labor Day, Thanksgiving and Valentines day. If you missed the earlier fall applications, apply now and apply so that you give the lawn about 1 pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet. The February application will give you a quick bright green -up for spring but some turf grass experts now feel that in this area too much fertilizer applied in the late winter may cause disease and drought problems in the summer.

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Question: Hi Anne, I listen to you every Saturday morning. You provide such a great service. I was wondering if you could answer a question I have about jade plants. Why is it that an apparently healthy looking plant drops normal healthy looking leaves? Now these leaves look like they have just been plucked from the plant, not yellow or damaged. I have not had much luck. I don't believe I water too often as I wait for the plant to dry out. I water about every 2 weeks. The clay pot gets "light" and the soil feels dry before I water it. I just don't seem to have any luck with them at all. Thanks for your help, Cathy from Cary

Anne Clapp: The leaf drop you describe is probably due to underwatering. Jade plants need to have an evenly moist soil during their active growth season. They can dry out between waterings but once a week is probably a more realistic schedule for watering than every two weeks. They also seem to do a bit better with full sun.

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Question: Not a very good thumb here, but wondering why my Camellia is great big huge buds and no flowers! It has been in bud for months, it seems, but not one sign of a flower! What does it need, or will it not bloom at all now? Love your radio show and so good to see who you are now on News 14!! Thank you, Gretchen.

Anne Clapp: Camellia japonicas set their buds in July and August. They expand and form during the fall. If they are treated with giberillic acid during this time they will bloom during the fall. Nature lets them bloom in the late winter and early spring. You will probably see blooms on warm days in February and March. Just be patient.

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Question: Hi Anne, I recently purchased a townhouse that is approximately 17 years old. The former owner evidently planted ivy under the deck and it has grown out of control. I really need to get rid of it somehow. I called a local landscaper and was told that it would cost approximately $500 to have them remove it. I have read that ivy is difficult to get rid of using the commercial products. However, I cannot afford to pay $500 to have it removed. Do you have any suggestions? Also, I have two boxwoods that I would like to have removed from the front of my house. I would like to plant some smaller-growing evergreen shrubs or small trees to replace them as well as make some type of flower bed. I love the color of blue spruces but their eventual size would block out the light in my livingroom. Any advice is much appreciated! Sincerely, Janice

Anne Clapp: English Ivy is very hard to remove from the landscape. The secret is persistence. Right now while the soil is fairly moist start pulling it up. Start at the growing tip and start pulling toward to roots. Pull as much of it up as you can, pulling and using clippers to reduce the amount of plant on the ground. Next spring the ivy will start to grow again. When the new growth has five leaves spray with Roundup according to the directions on the container. As new growth appears, spray it again with Roundup. Let the plant grown through the summer, pull again in the fall and repeat the spraying in the spring. It usually takes about two years to get the ivy under control but it will take even longer to get rid of all of it. As to the plantings in front of the house, forget the spruce. They are beautiful but most of them don't like the clay soil and hot humid weather in the Raleigh area. Look through some of the books on gardening in the south for combinations that appeal to you. Depending on the style of your home and the location of it you may like the look of a cottage garden with a combination of perennials, annuals and shrubery or you might need a more formal planting of flowering and evergreen bushes. Gordon Halfacre's book "Landscape Plants of the Southeast" has great pictures and descriptions. Toby Bost's book on North Carolina gardening is also excellent. Both are in the Wake County library if you don't want to purchase a copy. Good luck.

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Question: Hi Anne, I have had a spider plant for over a month now and it was very vigorous and healthy until last week. I have kept it inside the whole time I have had it. All of a sudden the tips of the leaves turned brown, and I was wondering if I needed to water it more frequently, or perhaps give it more sunlight? Thanks for any help you can give me.

Anne Clapp: Brown tips on the leaves of spider plants are often caused by water that contains fluorine. Most city water supplies have been chlorinated and fluorinated so they do cause damage to the foliage of sensitive plants. Home water softening systems wil sometimes contain chemicals that damage the foliage of plants. Some people just learn to live with the brown tips. Others go to the effort to collect rain water to use on spider plants or if they have a large collection of house plants they will use one of the reverse osmosis water conditioning systems.

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Question: Can pansies weather the winter time season? I would like to plant some pansies or another flower with color that I can leave out all year on my uncovered porch which has full sunlight, the sun rises on the porch? Thanks, Kevin.

Anne Clapp: Pansies will bloom off and on all winter in this area. When they are outside you do have to remove any ice that builds up on them in a bad storm but they are resilient and will bloom the next time temperatures get above freezing. Be sure to keep them deadheaded for the best bloom. If you leave the dead blooms on the plants they put energy into setting seeds, not into producing new blossoms.

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Question: When should I cut back roses and butterfly bushes?

Anne Clapp: Butterfly bushes may be cut back after we have had a hard freeze so they will not try to put on new growth this late in the year. Floribunda and Hybrid Tea Roses may be cut back to 2.5 to 3 feet in November to keep them from blowing over in ice or snow storms but do not do major pruning until late February or early March. Climbing roses should not be cut back until after their first blooming spurt in the late spring.

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Question: Can you tell me about repotting house plants? I'm having a particular problem with deciding on which containers to use. I think the ceramic containers are beautiful, but even with rocks on the bottom, I have drainage problems (and ruined furniture). Is a plastic container, inserted into a basket or ceramic pot the way to go? I've had trouble finding plastic containers in sizes that will fit my ceramic pots. How do I determine which size pot is right for my house plants? Is there a universal plant food that I can use on all of my house plants? and a general rule of thumb for watering? I'm kind of new to this and am happy to hear anything you'd like to share! Thank you, Laura

Anne Clapp: We'll be doing some segments on houseplants in a few weeks so keep watching for more information. But briefly, blooming houseplants often bloom better when they are a bit crowded in their pot while foliage plants need more room for continued growth. Ceramic decorative pots make pretty containers for plants but it is often better to pot the plant in a plastic or clay pot and place that container in the decorative pot. If the decorative pot has a drainage hole use a plastic stopper, or even safer, put a plastic saucer inside the pot. Never let the plant stand in water. As for fertilizer, try a balanced liquid product with three numbers the same (8-8-8, 10-10-10 etc.). Use less fertilizer on blooming plants.

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Question: I have small patch of clover in my yard which seems to be increasing in size each season. Even though it is nice and green, the rest of my lawn is well established fescue so I would like to rid myself of this unsightly patch. What kills clover without killing other grasses? Thank You, Jimmy

Anne Clapp: You may kill clover with a broadleaf weedkiller containing 2-4D, MCCP and Dicamba. Ortho Weed-beGone is one such product but there are several others in the market. Weed killers work best when the clover is actively growing in the spring when night time temperatures are above 45.

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Question: I was given an Burana Beauty as a gift and was wondering how often it will bloom and how to take care of it. - Deborah

Anne Clapp: My references don't identify a Burana Beauty plant. It is probably a cultivar or trade mark for a plant listed in the literature by another name. My suggestion when you receive a plant with a name that is not recognizable is to go back to the source of the plant for cultural information. The store where it was purchased might have information or the person who gave it to you may also know it by another name. Sorry I can't help you with this one.

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Question: I have a large bed of hellebores (Helleborus orientalis, also called Lenten Rose). I would like to mulch them, but since hellebores prefer a strongly alkaline soil, I don't want to use pine bark or pine needles, or even mulched leaves from my oak trees. This bed is so near to my house that I am reluctant to use shredded hardwood mulch because it could attract termites. I would very much appreciate your advice on this. - Gretel

Anne Clapp: Hellebores may be mulched with pine straw or pine bark. Just be sure to lime the soil on a yearly basis to maintain a more alkaline pH. Put the lime around the plant, then mulch. As for the termite problem, there is really no difference in hardwood mulch and pine bark mulch in attraction to termites. Termites are attracted to wood, oak, maple, poplar or pine.

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Question: Which warm season grass would you recommend for this area? St Augustine or Bermuda Grass?

Anne Clapp: Look at some samples in a turf grass plot at the extension service or a sod farm and decide which texture you like for your lawn. There are advantages and disadvantages of each. Raleigh Saint Augustine is hardy in this area and seems to perform well for those who are growing it. It is a but more coarse than some of the newer hybrid Bermuda's. The new hybrid Bermudas are less agressive than the common Bermuda but they do creep into flower beds etc. You might want to try the NC Cooperative Extension Service website to see their turf file information on the two grasses.

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Question: We are overwhelmed with grubs!!! and moles!!!taking over and I can't find Milky Spore anywhere?Any other suggestions? Thank you, Cindy

Anne Clapp: Milky Spore has been in Lowes, Southern States, Logans, Buchannans Nursery and several other garden centers in the past three weeks.

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Question: Hello Anne. My question is, when do I cut back my rose bushes and rhododendrons? -Joanna

Anne Clapp: Roses may be cut back for the first time in late November in this area. Cut back so they are no more than three feet tall and remove any dead wood on the plants. The plants are cut back for shape and form in late February after the worst of our winter weather. Rhododendrons are cut back after they have bloomed in the spring. They may be cut back as much as needed for shape and form at that time. To cut them back in the winter means you lose the blooms for the year, but if plants are damaged or need to be cut back because they are obstructing pathways etc. they may be cut back during the winter dormant season without harming the plant.

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Question: My neighbor has a yard full of voles. There are tunnels everywhere. She has used chemicals and the vibrators to scare them away. But they just keep coming back and move to other areas. I live across the street and am hoping they don't get in our lawn and perennial beds. What is a good way to get rid of voles and moles. - Ann

Anne Clapp: Voles often use mole tunnels and eat the roots of plants. They may be killed with a special poison call Rozol placed in the runs where you see the small holes. A small mousetrap baited with peanut butter or apple placed at the mouth of the hole and covered with a large flower pot will work. A good cat will take care of both moles and voles. Moles eat earthworms and grubs in the lawn. They may be killed with special traps that harpoon the mole in the tunnels. They are discouraged when food is not available so gardeners often use poison for insects in the lawn or use a product called Milky Spore spread on the lawn. We have shown both of these problems in For Your Garden this summer.

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Question: Camellias (soft pink like rose blooms and the reddish pink variety- I forget the names & the tags too have gone with time) have adorned my garden for six years. However they tend to shed easily whenever I try to pick them in the blooming period. I am assuming there is something I am not doing to them. I appreciate your advice. Thanks, Suchitra

Anne Clapp: A camellia sasanqua does shatter or drop petals very easily. For the longest cut flower use of the flower, cut when the bloom first begins to open out of the bud. Cut the stem at an angle and place it in warm water. The bloom will last two or three days at the most before it shatters. Japanese floral arrangers often placed such camellias in a vase in front of guests they were not particularly fond of. The shattering blooms were a subtle dign of disrespect.

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Question: Is it too late to cut back my raspberries? - Paige

Anne Clapp: You may cut back raspberries until the first frost. Cut off the canes that produced fruit this season and then cut back the canes for next years production so they are about three feet long.

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Question: I planted 22 Compacta Hollies this past Spring, 6 of which have succumbed to the drought despite my watering them regularly. I am uncertain though whether the drought is the real culprit or maybe I overwatered them. I thought hollies were a relatively tough plant and hard to kill. Can you give me any suggestions on their care? Thanks, Mike

Anne Clapp: The death of the Compacta hollies planted this year was probably a combination of how the plants were planted and the amount of water they received. If the roots of the plants were crowded in the nursery pots you should remove all the potting soil and soak the roots of the plants for a few minutes before you plant them. The hole into which they are planted should be no deeper than the pot and should be three times the width of the pot. These hollies do not like wet soggy roots so make sure the hole does not hold water. Test it by filling it up with water; if it doesn't drain out in 15 minutes dig out more soil in the bottom of the hole, add some organic material such as pine bark soil conditioner to the soil in the bottom of the hole and then plant the holly. Water the plant about once a week until it is established. The plant will probably be content with about three gallons of water at a time.